Wasso Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 I've been thinking about upgrading the BOSE hardware for a while now, and from my past history when I was a young whippersnapper I once ran 2 8" subs isobaric stored in the boot of my car. I was wondering if it would be possible to fit 'maybe' 2 10's isobaric where the BOSE sub currently lives and rip out the entire system whilst I'm at it. I'm not sure 2 8's would suffice in that area and wondered if with a squeeze two 10's would fit? If they won't fit then I may have a bash with the 8's. Also any recommendations with preference with sub and amp brands to suit such a setup? I've always had a passion to try Boston Acoustics..... My music preference diversifies from chill out to techno, but pretty much the norm being funky house. All opinions welcome (but not on my musical taste ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 I've been thinking about upgrading the BOSE hardware for a while now, and from my past history when I was a young whippersnapper I once ran 2 8" subs isobaric stored in the boot of my car. I was wondering if it would be possible to fit 'maybe' 2 10's isobaric where the BOSE sub currently lives and rip out the entire system whilst I'm at it. I'm not sure 2 8's would suffice in that area and wondered if with a squeeze two 10's would fit? If they won't fit then I may have a bash with the 8's. Also any recommendations with preference with sub and amp brands to suit such a setup? I've always had a passion to try Boston Acoustics..... My music preference diversifies from chill out to techno, but pretty much the norm being funky house. All opinions welcome (but not on my musical taste ) TFFT I had no idea what you were talking about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasso Posted October 5, 2012 Author Share Posted October 5, 2012 Is Peter at your place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Is Peter at your place? No but I've had some pop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasso Posted October 5, 2012 Author Share Posted October 5, 2012 Is Peter at your place? No but I've had some pop I think it's more than pop you've had, your edit still hasn't fixed it. And what the hell is TFFT? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaydnH Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Thank F For That. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasso Posted October 5, 2012 Author Share Posted October 5, 2012 Thank F For That. Cheers H Couldn't work it out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Why do you want 2? Why isobaric? If for looks I agree but otherwise I'd get one good quality sealed 10". How much cuft you got to play with, budget and what type of sound do you want ideally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4RE Leather Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Is Peter at your place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddcboyle Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Intrested in this one from what ive heard the bose in 350 is pretty bad. Im guessing where the sub is, is where the amp is aswell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4RE Leather Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Intrested in this one from what ive heard the bose in 350 is pretty bad. Im guessing where the sub is, is where the amp is aswell? No, Amp is under the rear tray bolted to the floor above the spare wheel. Well it is on my HR. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spursmaddave Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Trouble with fitting anything where the bose sub is that you will get rattle and vibration unless you spend a lot of time and money, thats why I got the sub I did 15 minute install and removable too, and you know how it sounds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4RE Leather Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Trouble with fitting anything where the bose sub is that you will get rattle and vibration unless you spend a lot of time and money, thats why I got the sub I did 15 minute install and removable too, and you know how it sounds No Dave. How does it sound. Pictures install and price please? This will teach you to be up 1st posting :)~~~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasso Posted October 6, 2012 Author Share Posted October 6, 2012 The reason for isobaric is that you need half the air volume to perform the task. Example 1 x 10" require 2cft, running 2 in a isobaric format I only need 1cft. Therefore the 10" or 8" depending on what will fit isn't compromised. The bass will also be cleaner running isobaric, with lower hz handling. The rattling isn't an issue, I'll fix that, I know how to strip the back section in less than 10 mins. Them to provide sound proofing and refit shouldn't be an issue. What I don't want is a mass of space used in my car which I would otherwise use. I like your setup Dave but I use my boot and don't really want to have to compromise with having to lift the sub in and out based on my boot contents. Budget just on the sub section including amp will be about £600-800. As mentioned I'd really like to try the Boston Subs, they've been around for a long time and never ward a bad word. At the end of the day I want a quality sound, which is why I want to go isobaric, having a more controlled bass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spursmaddave Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Takes 30 seconds to remove if I ever needed to, which I haven't Are you planning on replacing the rest of the Bose speakers and amps? Peter have yo tried searching and i'm not up early i'm up late Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4RE Leather Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 On a seriouse side I was thinking of just swaping the amp over for something with a bit more ummph and ipgrading the speakers. Quite happy to leave the head unit alone unless it is caput were the blue tooth is concerned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spursmaddave Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 On a seriouse side I was thinking of just swaping the amp over for something with a bit more ummph and ipgrading the speakers. Quite happy to leave the head unit alone unless it is caput were the blue tooth is concerned. Would be a waste of money upgrading the amp and not the HU or speakers Pete Is it really worth worrying about the factory BT? Yes you lose the steering wheel function but all I need to do to answer a call is press a button on the touchscreen? I could understand if you were a rep travelling 1,000s of miles a week but do you really get that many calls on the move HU change, then speakers and amp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4RE Leather Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 On a seriouse side I was thinking of just swaping the amp over for something with a bit more ummph and ipgrading the speakers. Quite happy to leave the head unit alone unless it is caput were the blue tooth is concerned. Would be a waste of money upgrading the amp and not the HU or speakers Pete Is it really worth worrying about the factory BT? Yes you lose the steering wheel function but all I need to do to answer a call is press a button on the touchscreen? I could understand if you were a rep travelling 1,000s of miles a week but do you really get that many calls on the move Yes:) HU change, then speakers and amp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaydnH Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 On a seriouse side I was thinking of just swaping the amp over for something with a bit more ummph and ipgrading the speakers. Quite happy to leave the head unit alone unless it is caput were the blue tooth is concerned. Would be a waste of money upgrading the amp and not the HU or speakers Pete Is it really worth worrying about the factory BT? Yes you lose the steering wheel function but all I need to do to answer a call is press a button on the touchscreen? I could understand if you were a rep travelling 1,000s of miles a week but do you really get that many calls on the move Yes:) HU change, then speakers and amp There's a thread somewhere on My350 saying they've had good results from just changing the speakers (maybe the amp as well, can't remember). I may be tempted to do that at some point as I can't stand after market HU fitments, they never look OEM enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spursmaddave Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Shame, anyway you could spend £1,000 on an amp but if you keep the Bose HU and speakers it will still sound crap... Well crap compared to what it could sound like anyway Is your BT working now then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spursmaddave Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 On a seriouse side I was thinking of just swaping the amp over for something with a bit more ummph and ipgrading the speakers. Quite happy to leave the head unit alone unless it is caput were the blue tooth is concerned. Would be a waste of money upgrading the amp and not the HU or speakers Pete Is it really worth worrying about the factory BT? Yes you lose the steering wheel function but all I need to do to answer a call is press a button on the touchscreen? I could understand if you were a rep travelling 1,000s of miles a week but do you really get that many calls on the move Yes:) HU change, then speakers and amp There's a thread somewhere on My350 saying they've had good results from just changing the speakers (maybe the amp as well, can't remember). I may be tempted to do that at some point as I can't stand after market HU fitments, they never look OEM enough. Yeah you can get a better sound from changing speakers or speakers and amp certainly Cheapest option would be a nice pair of comp speakers for the doors and turn down the rears or of course change all 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasso Posted October 6, 2012 Author Share Posted October 6, 2012 Takes 30 seconds to remove if I ever needed to, which I haven't Are you planning on replacing the rest of the Bose speakers and amps? Peter have yo tried searching and i'm not up early i'm up late Agreed but then when I utilise the boot, it has to come out then I have no bass. Then say for instance I take a trip round Europe, the boot will be full and again no sound. I really don't want to compromise storage which is why I put all my NOS in the passenger cubby. It means the rest of the car isn't compromised. Still I like your system and it works well for your requirements. Yes I want to replace all components. Â I'm thinking these for the full system. Sub(s) (10' or 8' based on size availability) Power Handling 375W RMS General Features 2-3/4 inches of peak-to-peak excursion 2-1/2" 4-layer voice-coil Radialvent cooling, for increased power handling SureSet impedance selection and overdrive protection Multiple enclosures types and tuning options available Integral sealing gaskets simplify both standard and inverted mounting General Specifications Mounting Cutout Diameter: 9-1/4" (235mm) Mounting Depth: 6-3/8" (166mm) Linear Excursion: 2-3/4 inches Recommended Enclosure: Sealed: 0.5cu ft - Ported: 1.3cu ft w/ 3" x 11" Port Amp to drive both in a isobaric format. Features Power Handling: 300W RMS x 2@ 4-Ohms 500W RMS x 2@ 2-Ohms 1000W RMS x 1 [bridged] @ 4-Ohms 1400W RMS x 1 [bridged] @ 2-Ohms General Features: Remote bass level input (GT-RSL remote level control sold separately) Red LED power badge and orange protect indicator 2/1 channel operation Adjustable mounting feet (mounting feet move along rails to allow the easiest installation) Fully computer-controlled diagnostics system (continuously monitors amplifier in case of thermal overload, short circuits, or over voltage) Q-Tuneâ„¢ technology combines sophisticated crossover adjustments with Q-Control settings to seamlessly transition rear bass to the front sound stage Uses a 100 amp ANL fuse Heavy duty fan cooled aluminum alloy heatsink Gold-plated RCA level inputs Gold-plated screw terminals Variable high-pass filter (20-350 Hz, 12 dB/octave) Variable low-pass filter (50-350 Hz, 12 or 24 dB/octave) Signal Voltage Input (200mV-8V) Frequency response: 10-95,000 Hz Dimensions: 22-1/4"L x 9"W x 2-3/8"H 1/0-gauge power and ground wiring is required for installation Component front Power Handling 85W RMS 250W Max General Specifications Nominal Impedance: 4 ohm Frequency Response: 45Hz-20kHz Sensitivity [1 watt (2.83v) at 1m]: 90dB Mounting Depth: 2-3/8" (67.0mm) System Type: 2-way General Features 6-1/2" copolymer cone woofer with TwinStage heatsink Woofer's neodymium motor structure offers extraordinary power-to-weight ratio VariMount adaptor rings enable the SR60 woofer to fit into virtually any factory 6-1/2-inch location. Type-S1 1" Kortec dome tweeters Quick-fit mounting cup simplifies tweeter installation Separable and dockable model-specific crossovers Rear coaxial Power Handling 75W RMS 200W Max General Specifications Nominal Impedance: 4 ohm Frequency Response: 50Hz-20kHz Sensitivity [1 watt (2.83v) at 1m]: 90dB Mounting Depth: 2-7/16" (62.0mm) System Type: 2-way General Features 6-1/2" copolymer cone woofer with butyl rubber surround Woofer's neodymium motor structure offers extraordinary power-to-weight ratio 1" Kortec dome tweeters Contoured tweeter plane greatly improves on- and off-axis tweeter response Model Specific integrated muti-element crossovers VariMount adaptor rings enable the SR65 woofer to fit into virtually any factory 6-1/2 inch location. Amp to run components and coaxial. Power Handling: 85W RMS x 4 @ 4-Ohms 100W RMS x 4 @ 4-Ohms 150W RMS x 4 @ 2-Ohms 225W RMS x 4 @ 1-Ohm 300W RMS x 2 [bridged] @ 4-Ohms 450W RMS x 2 [bridged] @ 2-Ohms General Features: DualMode High-current, high-power design for 4 channel or 2 channel Q-Tune technology combines sophisticated crossover adjustments with Q-Control settings to seamlessly transition rear bass to the front sound stage High efficiency and output stages delivering increased power into lower impedance and maximum dynamics and transient response Security cover protects control settings LED power and protection indicator Aluminum alloy heatsink Gold-plated RCA and screw terminals Advanced fan cooling allows varied mounting positions Fully Adjustable crossover highpass and lowpass crossover for exact integration of speakers and subwoofers Low-profile height 2 3/8"(61mm) allows installation in tight locations Adjustable mounting feet for varied mounting surfaces Optional remote bass control: compatible with GT-RSL remote (sold separately) Input sensitivity control: 200mV to 8V Frequency response: 10Hz - 95kHz Q-Tune control: 0.707 to 1.6 Dimensions(WxHxD): 22-1/4" x 2-3/8" x 9" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasso Posted October 6, 2012 Author Share Posted October 6, 2012 Pete I have an aftermarket HU and have full control still of the phone and sound on the steering wheel controls. All you need is an adapter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spursmaddave Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Nice.... I have thought about mounting the amp under the boot carpet, wouldn't take much maybe a bit of cutting the polystyrene block things.... I would personally sort the other speakers and amp first, if you get decent ones you might not even want/need more bass.... I made do with the bose sub for quite a while.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasso Posted October 6, 2012 Author Share Posted October 6, 2012 Nice.... I have thought about mounting the amp under the boot carpet, wouldn't take much maybe a bit of cutting the polystyrene block things.... I would personally sort the other speakers and amp first, if you get decent ones you might not even want/need more bass.... I made do with the bose sub for quite a while.... That would be a good idea to maybe sink it in your boot, maybe with a overlay so that you could cover it for when transporting bondage gear and the like. Fair point about changing the speakers before sub, but for me the whole system needs changing. The bass with the BOSE has no real quality, same goes with the rest of the setup. Just need to know now if two 10's would fit in the BOSE sub location or two 8's I have plenty of room in the other cubby to fit the two amps, especially at 22" long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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