theheff Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 Hey guys, I plan on replacing the brake lines for HEL lines, my pads and bleeding the system in the next week. I've never done anything like this before but I'm quite practical with cars so plan on doing it myself. I have a few questions if people would be so kind. What order should I do this all in? Do I need to drain the system before swapping the lines? I have read that the bleed nipples can round off. How do I prevent this happening? When bleeding do I pump the peddle till the fluid changes colour, how do I get the air out from the new hose ensuring there is no air in the system. I'm going to be doing this at home so no ramp, is there any issue with doing it one corner at a time? I have searched the guides but can't find a good guide to changing lines, I read that coldel did a good one but can't find it, if anyone has a link to a good one, and a guide to bleeding aswell it would be much appreciated Cheers Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob d Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 Abbey counseled caution on this. If there is any roundness to the profile of the caliper then the HEL lines wont mate correctly. To get a good contact, they have to be machined square. I got them to fit mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theheff Posted October 1, 2012 Author Share Posted October 1, 2012 Anyone assist with this please guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonst205 Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 What order should I do this all in? Pads last Do I need to drain the system before swapping the lines? You don't have to as you'll get less air in the system, but it does make it a messy job. A wise investment is a few plastic g-clamps which you can use on the old (and new) brake lines to minimise fluid loss. I have read that the bleed nipples can round off. How do I prevent this happening? Douse the nipples in WD40 a few days before you do the job. Use a 6-sided socket to crack them open. If it starts to round, stop & think again! When bleeding do I pump the peddle till the fluid changes colour, how do I get the air out from the new hose ensuring there is no air in the system. Either the traditional way with a friend pumping the pedal for you, some clear hose and a jar of brake fluid, or invest in an EZ-bleed. If you have brembo's remember you have two nipples per caliper (do in the inside one first). If using an EZ-bleed you can get a t-piece and connect both nipples at once. I'm going to be doing this at home so no ramp, is there any issue with doing it one corner at a time? Not at all, just work from furthest away from the MC first (NSR/OSR/NSF/OSF). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theheff Posted October 1, 2012 Author Share Posted October 1, 2012 Cheers for the reply Does it matter which order I do the brake lines in. Should it be the same order that they need bleeding in? And do I leave the cap on the reservoir for bleeding and changing the lines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonst205 Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 I would do them in the same order though logically I can't see it making a massive difference. If you clamp the hose next to the main hard line connection, get everything ready with the replacement line then you should be able to swap over with a minimum of mess. Cap left on while changing the lines (a bit of vacuum to lose less fluid), cap off while bleeding. Make sure you there is always fluid in the MC otherwise you can quickly kill it. Worth noting the concerns regarding aftermarket lines, you have to be extra extra careful with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theheff Posted October 1, 2012 Author Share Posted October 1, 2012 What are the concerns please matey?. I've read about ensuring the clamp placent causes no issues when turning the wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonst205 Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 I haven't had a set to look at yet but my warning was more from the knowledge that if the lines aren't located properly then can come undone by themselves - not good! I always go with a fair bit more torque too, while obviously not overdoing it. Just to add that when I searched I found Zmanalex suggested the order should be NSR - OSF - OSR - NSF - so I will bow to his wisdom of all things 350. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Mcgoo Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 All of whats been said above is good advise. Definitely soak the nipples, the pipe connections and the nuts/bolts a few times/days before you do the job. You will need a brake pipe/flare nut spanner it will make the task much easier - http://reviews.halfords.com/4028/470112/reviews.htm Have some new replacement nipples ready, as there is a very high chance of you knackering a couple. Once your brakes are in bits its hard to go shopping. A plumbers blow-torch is worth having to hand to heat the seized nipples. And take your time removing them, work them backward and forward a bit at a time, and you shouldn't wreck the threads in the calipers. When bleeding - the two person method works much better on these brakes then any other, so save yourself some time and fluid by doing it that way in the first place. If your going to the trouble of changing the lines, then you may as well do a complete fluid change while your there. Motul RBF600 is great stuff and makes a big difference, so definitely worth investing in. As said above make sure the back of the caliper where the lines connect is clean and flat or the washers may not seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theheff Posted October 1, 2012 Author Share Posted October 1, 2012 Where can I get spare nipples from? Let me guess? by any chance? What size spanner do I need, the HEL lines are, what are the stock ones? I'm hoping the nuts are not too bad, when I did my suspension, everything was fine, no seized nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWTech Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 I just got new bright purple lines for the Z today. I will be using motul rbf600 fluid. the pads and discs were all done within 1k miles with Ferodo ds2500 and DBA discs. pads front and rear in stock, and can get you HEL lines in any colour you wish. plenty wd40, or something called toolbox buddy is great for any dodgey nutz and seized bits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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