ho02pey90 Posted July 16, 2012 Author Share Posted July 16, 2012 What happens if you start again? Like, right from the start. Remove a wheel, take the pads out, push the pistons back in, replace the pads, check fluid, rinse and repeat. All with the top off the reservoir, of course I know you said you bled the calipers, but try starting from scratch and see what happens. Think i will try this tomorrow mate but im going to have to bleed the callipers to get the pads of vecause they are locked on solid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ho02pey90 Posted July 16, 2012 Author Share Posted July 16, 2012 Hmm perplexing this one for sure Where I would go if you haven't given up or petrol bombed the car When you and your dad wear bleeding the brakes was fluid freely flowing on each down stroke of the brake Pedal? I assume not???? I think your ABS control has a valve jammed or an air lock. Also if you loosen the bleed nipples on the calipers (engine running) does the fluid keep coming out under pressure without the brake pedal pressed? When we were bleeding the calipers the fluid was coming out and releasing the caliper off the disk, i will try releasing the nipple whilst the engine is running tomorrow see if it does flow out. I think the pressure is keeping there keeping the pads pressed on but its not releasing the caliper, do you know how the fluid releases the caliper from the disk ? If i knew this i could trace it down and see what the problem is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 OP says.... i had the car up on the jack stands this morning took all the wheels off i took the reservoir cap off and bleed the callipers in the correct order after doing this the wheels where able to move, when i re fitted the wheels and took of the jack stands and went to pull away same thing happened all wheels were locked on i can just drive but you can hear the brakes locked on. So if I'm reading this right, with the ignition OFF, once the pressure is released at the bleed nipples, wheels rotate freely, still with the ignition off, you pump the pedal and still all is o.k, wheels move? Next step, ignition on, engine off....... ,wheels move? ABS fault Next step, ignition on, engine on......wheels move? ABS or Servo fault. I know it's frustrating, but I don't think you have done any serious damage, just think the system needs pressure bleeding. As a long shot you could try pulling the ABS fuse or disconnecting the feed to the ABS pump and see if that works? you cant powerbleed the system on the 350z as far as I'm aware.. Running the risk of being shot down in flames or eaten by Neil - You can't power bleed the clutch I think you can power bleed the brakes (I hope so I have ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Hmm perplexing this one for sure Where I would go if you haven't given up or petrol bombed the car When you and your dad wear bleeding the brakes was fluid freely flowing on each down stroke of the brake Pedal? I assume not???? I think your ABS control has a valve jammed or an air lock. Also if you loosen the bleed nipples on the calipers (engine running) does the fluid keep coming out under pressure without the brake pedal pressed? When we were bleeding the calipers the fluid was coming out and releasing the caliper off the disk, i will try releasing the nipple whilst the engine is running tomorrow see if it does flow out. I think the pressure is keeping there keeping the pads pressed on but its not releasing the caliper, do you know how the fluid releases the caliper from the disk ? If i knew this i could trace it down and see what the problem is We seem to be thinking the same thing - I don't think the ABS is allowing the pressure to be released after you apply it. i.e you put your foot on the brake the caliper grips the disk you remove you foot the caliper is still locked on. If you start with the driver's side front wheel and see if it is locked - assuming it is you can trace the brake pipe it comes through the inner wing into the engine bay then into the area near the brake master cylinder. From there it will go to the ABS if IIRC the ABS then has 2 pipes to the master cylinder there are no valves in that brake line before you get back to the ABS. With the car off and the brakes locked loosen the bleed nipple - brake should release. If you then press the pedal fluid should literally pour out - I believe it will (tighten the nipple before releasing the brake pedal) - possibly read that as here is an egg now suck Now the wheel should turn freely press the brake and the wheel should lock release the brake and ........................... see what happens (tell us) If the wheel unlocks then start the car and press the pedal it should lock and I'm guessing at this point will stay locked due to the ABS being the fault ...... if I'm even close, if it does lock I have a couple of ideas of what I would try after that. As someone stated above the servo could also be pulling away when not wanted pull the pipe from the servo off the plenum and block the hole on the plenum side before starting the car to remove the vacuum in that pipe. Disclaimer - I'm not a qualified mechanic and only trying to help feel free to totally ignore me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackpig Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 ho02pey90 I have told you what the problem is and how to sort it on page 2. Do what I have said and it will work. Trust me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonk Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 ho02pey90 I have told you what the problem is and how to sort it on page 2. Do what I have said and it will work. Trust me. I presume this is about the pads being too tight in the calipers. Surely if this was the case they would still be solid when you released the pressure provided by the hydraulic fluid holding them tight against the discs? i.e by undoing the bleed nipple. Which IF I have read the OP right, he has done and the discs rotate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackpig Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 The pads are tight in the caliper. Putting the disc on, fitting the wheel and tightening the wheel bolts clamps the disc against the pads even more. I have been here before. Tell you what, ho02pey90, I've told you how to fix it but how about I come round to your house- If I fix it, you give me £100. If I dont fix it, you pay nowt. Fair deal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 The pads are tight in the caliper. Putting the disc on, fitting the wheel and tightening the wheel bolts clamps the disc against the pads even more. I have been here before. Tell you what, ho02pey90, I've told you how to fix it but how about I come round to your house- If I fix it, you give me £100. If I dont fix it, you pay nowt. Fair deal? I would be behing you 100% if the OP hadn't posted - ........ When we were bleeding the calipers the fluid was coming out and releasing the caliper off the disk, ....................... This implies its fine until you apply the brakes - release the bleed nipple and therefore the pressure and the brake releases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricey Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 The pads are tight in the caliper. Putting the disc on, fitting the wheel and tightening the wheel bolts clamps the disc against the pads even more. I have been here before. Tell you what, ho02pey90, I've told you how to fix it but how about I come round to your house- If I fix it, you give me £100. If I dont fix it, you pay nowt. Fair deal? Mix it up a bit.......you fix he pays £100 You fail ......you pay £100. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackpig Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 The pads are tight in the caliper. Putting the disc on, fitting the wheel and tightening the wheel bolts clamps the disc against the pads even more. I have been here before. Tell you what, ho02pey90, I've told you how to fix it but how about I come round to your house- If I fix it, you give me £100. If I dont fix it, you pay nowt. Fair deal? Mix it up a bit.......you fix he pays £100 You fail ......you pay £100. I am sure tho OP only want constructive posts on his thread. Please dont spoil this one Ricey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricey Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neilp Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 OP says.... i had the car up on the jack stands this morning took all the wheels off i took the reservoir cap off and bleed the callipers in the correct order after doing this the wheels where able to move, when i re fitted the wheels and took of the jack stands and went to pull away same thing happened all wheels were locked on i can just drive but you can hear the brakes locked on. So if I'm reading this right, with the ignition OFF, once the pressure is released at the bleed nipples, wheels rotate freely, still with the ignition off, you pump the pedal and still all is o.k, wheels move? Next step, ignition on, engine off....... ,wheels move? ABS fault Next step, ignition on, engine on......wheels move? ABS or Servo fault. I know it's frustrating, but I don't think you have done any serious damage, just think the system needs pressure bleeding. As a long shot you could try pulling the ABS fuse or disconnecting the feed to the ABS pump and see if that works? you cant powerbleed the system on the 350z as far as I'm aware.. Running the risk of being shot down in flames or eaten by Neil - You can't power bleed the clutch I think you can power bleed the brakes (I hope so I have ) Info from zmanalex- maybe its you shouldn't power bleed the 350z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ho02pey90 Posted July 17, 2012 Author Share Posted July 17, 2012 iv located the problem, the discs that i bought i suspect are actually fake, when putting the wheels on and set discs fixing against the hub they are touching the inside of the calliper as shown in the picture below leaving the gaps between the pad and the disc uneven on both sides. I'm going to contact the guy i bought the discs off and ask for a full refund and buy some proper 100% discs of ZMANALEX (alex) pretty relieved that its nothing major but in a way pretty miffed about the guy selling me these discs! Thanks for the help guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Glad that you have traced the issue Andy, well done mate Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwra Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 You know, the whole time Ive been reading this Ive been thinking "hes been sold the wrong discs/pads", how can a non pressurised system leave the brakes stuck on, but thought that was a bit too obvious to post. Glad you have found your problem, good luck getting it sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Nice one on finding that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricey Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 You have definitely bought the right discs and pads haven't you? OP I told you how to fix the issue on Page 1................trussssssssssssssssst me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonk Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Ah Ha!! Glad you've found the problem and posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 You have definitely bought the right discs and pads haven't you? OP I told you how to fix the issue on Page 1................trussssssssssssssssst me Sounds like he bought what should have been the right ones but got palmed off with duds - a lesson learnt to use tried and tested traders on here without all the hassle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricey Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 You have definitely bought the right discs and pads haven't you? OP I told you how to fix the issue on Page 1................trussssssssssssssssst me Sounds like he bought what should have been the right ones but got palmed off with duds - a lesson learnt to use tried and tested traders on here without all the hassle Colin......I've been a member here now for some time. I have over 4000 posts and not one of them useful......give me this small victory. Do I get any money for this or anything? Is there a prize or a sticker that I'm not aware of? This is all new territory for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Paul, you are the "Double Denim Disc Dude" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 You have definitely bought the right discs and pads haven't you? Credit where credit is due Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricey Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Paul, you are the "Double Denim Disc Dude" Denim discs.........now there's an idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neilp Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Was the company on here you bought them from? Glad you solved it and credit to Ricey for his first informative post on here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackpig Posted July 17, 2012 Share Posted July 17, 2012 Well done finding the problem OP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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