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Possible Clutch Problem?


Paddy78

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I was driving in traffic the other day and as I pulled away at a roundabout, my clutch pedal stayed down… I drove away and after about 30 seconds it popped back up. :scare:

 

This has never happened before and I’ve not noticed the clutch slipping or noticed a high bite (Although I do find the clutch heavy compared to anything I’ve driven previously).

 

I’ve had a good read of similar posts on this site and the other forums, but there didn’t seem to be a conclusive answer. It seemed that this could either be a normal mechanism that the car employs when the clutch overheats to needing the clutch replacing or a synchro issue…

 

Any ideas / advice much appreciated?

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If it was me I would

 

Change the fluid first may help.

 

Change slave cylinder next. That has sorted 2 I know about.

 

After that it's master cylinder or the clutch itself but the above 2 jobs are fairly easy and not too expensive.

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If your car is a DE and not the HR then swopping out the clutch fluid and clutch slave cyl and replacing the spongy rubber hose with a braided clutch line will 99% of the time fix your issue.

On the very rare occasion you may have to replace the clutch master cyl.

 

All parts in stock anf good to go same/next day :thumbs:

 

Drop me a PM if I can help you further mate :thumbs:

 

Alex :)

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If your car is a DE and not the HR then swopping out the clutch fluid and clutch slave cyl and replacing the spongy rubber hose with a braided clutch line will 99% of the time fix your issue.

On the very rare occasion you may have to replace the clutch master cyl.

 

All parts in stock anf good to go same/next day :thumbs:

 

Drop me a PM if I can help you further mate :thumbs:

 

Alex :)

 

I had a similar problem and doing the above sorted mine.

 

Can't recommend ZMAN highly enough for parts & service - :pmzmanalex:

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Checking the fluid level is the first thing, any major discolouring can suggest heat transfer been a possible cause, air is the most likely issue getting trapped at the end of the master cylinder, bleeding should be done with the help of an assistant, a final check is to get an assistant to watch the master cylinder for bubbles whilst the you depress the clutch several times in quick succession, any bubbles mean the master cylinder drawing in air at the rear seal.

 

The flex pipe replacement as mentioned above is also recommended at some time even if you sort it now by bleeding the system.

 

Jeff TT

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Thanks all for the advice. I'll have a proper look tomorrow. :thumbs:

 

Took her out today and there were no signs of any problems, but would rather take action now, than wait until it goes completely.

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