chocohercules Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Right to my knowledge, there are 4 main Sensors in the Engine? 2 in the front Green and Blue what look after the VVTI timing 1 Crank Position Sensor, Near Gearbox and Engine join? and the other i believe is the Crank Angle Sensor? is this located just under the throttle body? what does this control? If faulty can it trigger off a P0335 Crank postion code? Is this sensor the same as a Crank Postion Sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Right to my knowledge, there are 4 main Sensors in the Engine? 2 in the front Green and Blue what look after the VVTI timing 1 Crank Position Sensor, Near Gearbox and Engine join? and the other i believe is the Crank Angle Sensor? is this located just under the throttle body? what does this control? If faulty can it trigger off a P0335 Crank postion code? Is this sensor the same as a Crank Postion Sensor? Edit: Apologies P0335 is not a cylinder 5 misfire code, and is CPS, should have been wearing my glasses The two in the front are the electronic trigger valves for the VVTI (not sensors) CPS is on case near flywheel. Don't know about a sensor under throttle body, unless your thinking of one of the two cam position sensors? Here is a diagram of engine control and sensors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 I've just sorted a similar problem, i had slow to start and missfire issues that i thought was a crank sensor but it turned out to be a wiring plug to a coilpack issue..........took me ages to find the rascal I took off the plastic engine cover then, with the engine running, slowly unplugged / reconnected each plug until i found the culprit. It lit up the CEL, ABS & TCS lights on the dash if that's something you are experiencing? Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zugara Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Knock sensor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Knock sensor Knock sensor what?? yes that have one, sensor fault is P0327 and P0328. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocohercules Posted April 23, 2012 Author Share Posted April 23, 2012 Cheers Dave and Tricky I will Have a look at the coilpack for cylinder 5 check sparkplug and connector. Yes i believe i am referring to a cam sensor not too clued up these things Dave these are exactly my symptoms! Doing my nut in! ABS Traction lights! slow and underpowered! missfire feel. Did it also throw code P0335 Crank Position Sensor (mine changed still not cured, so it cant be the CPS but something triggering the code?) What will i be looking for when checking coil packs and how to test? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 As per my edited post above, my apologies, the P0335 code is CPS, have you checked the power side of the sensor on pin 1, this gets a power feed from the IPDM, although you say it has run using the original sensor, so unlikely. You can check coil pack by resistance, and also swapping over and see if the miss follows it, but the easy way is with NDS software, you can run an active test and switch off each coil in turn and see if there is any difference, that way its easy to isolate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Cheers Dave and Tricky I will Have a look at the coilpack for cylinder 5 check sparkplug and connector. Yes i believe i am referring to a cam sensor not too clued up these things Dave these are exactly my symptoms! Doing my nut in! ABS Traction lights! slow and underpowered! missfire feel. Did it also throw code P0335 Crank Position Sensor (mine changed still not cured, so it cant be the CPS but something triggering the code?) What will i be looking for when checking coil packs and how to test? You are very welcome to give me a call when you are testing / trying them, i'll PM you my number and you can call me if easier. The code i got was a cam position actuator bank 1, i swapped that from my own 350z but it didn't work so then swapped the crank sensor, both cam sensors and the 2nd cam actuator but it was still the same I then changed all the spark plugs (which needed a change!) then the car wouldn't start at all, all wiring was removed then replaced but it was starting but still the same, miss fire / all 3 lights on. With the engine cover removed and the engine running you'll need to pull the grey plug very slowly from the coilpack, if the engine starts to struggle or stall then that pack is good but if it runs the same unplugged then that's the bad coilpack. When replacing each plug make sure you push it home as this exposed my problem as the plug wires were ill fitting, if this is your problem give it a quick spray with some electrical cleaner and try to close up the clips a little with a small screwdriver and that'll do the trick If that doesn't make complete sense give me a call and i'll explain over the phone, it'll be easier to remove the plastic engine cover first and then you'll have full access to see properly. Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocohercules Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 Cheers Dave, I will have a stab at this when i finish work today! doesnt sound too complicated even i can check this lol........ I would love to bring my car down to you but im in Birmingham and dont want to risk driving the car down on the motorway! I will see how i go with the various little checks first but cheers for all your info much appreciated guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocohercules Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 Update: I managed to test the 3 coil pack plugs on the driverside, real easy to get to. No problems on that side car started to run like crap whilst slowly disconnecting the plug. However the passengerside is a nightmare!!! In the end I had to disconnect the induction pipe??? Which then left the car unable to start lool..... I'm going to have do it the long way round by disconnecting the induction pipe for clearance to the plugs, disconnect the plug and re-attach the induction pipe again then see ow she runs. Do this for the other 3 coil packs on pass side. Does this make sense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 It'll be worth taking the plugs out to check them as you'll be able to see which coil is faulty by the spark plug. It'll either be wet or quite fouled up compared to the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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