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New Tyres fitting; best camber alignment?


wizard

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Hi Peeps,

 

I'm getting some RS-Rs fitted to my Rays this week.

 

Thinking of adjusting the camber, alignment for the car as well.

 

Anyone know what the best setup on standard suspension for maximum traction? Negative camber of some sort I presume?

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Maximum traction would be about 4 degrees of toe in for a start, not sure Id want to run that on the road though ;)

 

What are you looking to do with the car - mainly track, mainly road, bit of both? Id probably advise running 0 toe front and back, -1 deg front camber, -1 degs rear camber to start with and see how you get on - that said Ive read that you can go very camberous on the front and little on the back for uber grip and better straightline stability but I guess its a matter of taste. I wouldnt advise changing caster from original settings but again its up to you. Some people like a car that fidgets about like an eel plugged into the mains, others prefer it dead straight.

 

Likewise with the toe, I like a bit of toe out on the rear personally but it does make the car feel more nervous. TBH your best bet might just be to take it to someone who knows what they are doing, tell them how you want the car to handle and let them do their magic.

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Hi Peeps,

 

I'm getting some RS-Rs fitted to my Rays this week.

 

Thinking of adjusting the camber, alignment for the car as well.

 

Anyone know what the best setup on standard suspension for maximum traction? Negative camber of some sort I presume?

 

Front:

0deg toe

Camber is not adjustable on the front but -1.2deg per wheel is what you would like to see

 

Rear

0.2deg total toe in (0.1deg each wheel)

If you want best traction off the line then 0deg camber would be best. For all round grip -1.2 to -1.5 is where I would aim for.

 

 

These setting would work road and track. You could go more extreme if you like :thumbs:

 

p.s nice tyre choice!

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I'm running about 2.5degree toe all round. Need to double check as its just been done again. Had some issue the last time so will wait and see what the pro's at ame have set it up with.

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If the car isnt dropped I assume OEM setup is probably best, but at the moment my geometry is all over the shop, lots of camber on the front and rear along with a slight bit of toe out on the front and a bit of toe in on the rear. Need to get some adjustable suspension components then I can set it up properly. Doesnt feel bad currently just will wear through tyres a bit fast.

 

If tyre wear isnt of much concern you could have a fairly aggressive geometry which would feel great on "spirited" drives or on track.

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You want it as close to oem if you arent tracking it

 

+1

 

It's very easy for people to spew out figures in the air as to what will constitute best grip or handling but it depends on so many variables eg what you can adjust on the car, driving style and the application is intended for.

If you don't know what you are doing you can get hurt!!

 

The OEM setup is pretty good but conservative as it takes best tyre wear into consideration and set for under steer though it will oversteer when ruffled or in low grip levels.

You cannot adjust caster on the std zed or front camber but by lowering it they both should adjust equally within a few minutes of each other.

Toe is adjustable via the tie rods.

On the rear you can adjust camber and toe.

With this said for road use aim to go just outside stock setting upto about 25-30% of this.

Eg

Front

toe -0.06 to - 0.10

Camber -1.35 to -2.0(only if you lower the car or have adjustable arms.)

 

Rear

Toe -0.06 to - 0.10

Camber -2.0 to -2.5(you may need adjustable arms to get up to 2.5 if not lowered)

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It's very easy for people to spew out figures in the air as to what will constitute best grip or handling but it depends on so many variables eg what you can adjust on the car, driving style and the application is intended for.

If you don't know what you are doing you can get hurt!!

 

The OEM setup is pretty good but conservative as it takes best tyre wear into consideration and set for under steer though it will oversteer when ruffled or in low grip levels.

You cannot adjust caster on the std zed or front camber but by lowering it they both should adjust equally within a few minutes of each other.

Toe is adjustable via the tie rods.

On the rear you can adjust camber and toe.

With this said for road use aim to go just outside stock setting upto about 25-30% of this.

Eg

Front

toe -0.06 to - 0.10

Camber -1.35 to -2.0(only if you lower the car or have adjustable arms.)

 

Rear

Toe -0.06 to - 0.10

Camber -2.0 to -2.5(you may need adjustable arms to get up to 2.5 if not lowered)

 

Why use language like "its very easy for people to spew out figures in the air" when people have taken the time to responsed in good faith to a question?

 

You have only gone and suggested settings just like others have?

 

:wacko:

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Sorry lads but its taken the wrong way my statement and reading it now sounds like i suggested other were wrong.

What i meant to say or convey is that alot of pips just post out very general enquires or request whenits notclear what they are looking for or actually want to achieve and it can be dangerous for them if they just take advice just on the face of it without considering what it is that they are after :shrug:

Docwra i know we had an awkward exchange in the past but i assure you its not the case here.

 

Take for instance as a drifter you(docwra) will whan to dial in a rear toe out amongst other things to make the car oversteer or break traction easily but for an op just wanting abit of optimisation of the OEM setup this could be fatal if they dont have the skill or experience to handle such a nervous setup :surrender:

 

So as much as we all want to help each other improve the zed or general motoring experience it is important that we identify what it is that is needed because we could inadvertently cause the opposite. Thats what i should have said in the first place.

 

Trackpig my apologies to you too if it came accross as crass.

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Sorry lads but its taken the wrong way my statement and reading it now sounds like i suggested other were wrong.

What i meant to say or convey is that alot of pips just post out very general enquires or request whenits notclear what they are looking for or actually want to achieve and it can be dangerous for them if they just take advice just on the face of it without considering what it is that they are after :shrug:

Docwra i know we had an awkward exchange in the past but i assure you its not the case here.

 

Take for instance as a drifter you(docwra) will whan to dial in a rear toe out amongst other things to make the car oversteer or break traction easily but for an op just wanting abit of optimisation of the OEM setup this could be fatal if they dont have the skill or experience to handle such a nervous setup :surrender:

 

So as much as we all want to help each other improve the zed or general motoring experience it is important that we identify what it is that is needed because we could inadvertently cause the opposite. Thats what i should have said in the first place.

 

Trackpig my apologies to you too if it came accross as crass.

 

No problem.

 

 

 

The Nissan wheel alignment settings for the 350z have quite wide tolerances (info taken from the service manual).

The settings I have suggested are within the nissan recommended settings, just right up to the more sporting end of the range.

 

The service manual uses mm to measure toe where alot of wheel alignment machines use degrees and minutes.

When I had my car set up with my requested setting Ive mentioned, the alignment machine showed all settings as GREEN and therefore within recommended spec.

 

Anyone can set their car to how they want it but all I can say is, the setting I have used work for me and in the situations I use my car. :thumbs:

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Take for instance as a drifter you(docwra) will whan to dial in a rear toe out amongst other things to make the car oversteer or break traction easily but for an op just wanting abit of optimisation of the OEM setup this could be fatal if they dont have the skill or experience to handle such a nervous setup :surrender:

 

Aye, thats kinda exactly what I said mate ;)

 

Likewise with the toe, I like a bit of toe out on the rear personally but it does make the car feel more nervous.

 

It is the point though, what suits one driver isnt necessarily going to be right for another, you are always compromising between ultimate grip and stability when playing with alignment. Try something thats not too agressive, if you get on with it then try going more agressive until you find your sweet spot :)

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