4RE Leather Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 How strange! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yella Fella Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 I definitely need to try this at some point, especially quoted £222 by Nissan to get this fixed as they call "fix issue 2". Does the clicking actually affect the car in anyways in terms of wear/tear, it won't damage the car will it? Plus does it have to be the marine and ball bearing grease, or can I just get the bog standard heavy duty ball bearing grease? http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from= ... ase&_sop=3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4RE Leather Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 I definitely need to try this at some point, especially quoted £222 by Nissan to get this fixed as they call "fix issue 2". Does the clicking actually affect the car in anyways in terms of wear/tear, it won't damage the car will it? Plus does it have to be the marine and ball bearing grease, or can I just get the bog standard heavy duty ball bearing grease? http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from= ... ase&_sop=3 It doesn't have to be that grease and it's not set in stone, but at those prices why not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yella Fella Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 I did this last night with thanks to neighbours flood lights and my camping head lamps, working till 8:30pm I did the drivers side, literally greased the collars,of the cv joint and spline itself. All fine, no clicking so far... Tempted to do the other side before I return mate's digital snap on torque wrench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4RE Leather Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 Might as well as it could snow tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly@Kaizer Motor Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Hi everyone. If you have this clicking noise problem and you are close to my garage in Kent just pop down and I will lubricate it for you FOC. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie350blue Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Did this the other week after seeing this post and I'm well happy to say the noise has totally disappeared, so easy and quick to do and so nice to not hear that annoying noise every time i move back and forth from a standstill!!! Would totally recommend this is as it only takes about 20-30 mins a side. Thanks for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankeesiter Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 I ran this by my independent the other day and he said that in all probability in the process of tightening the nuts on the half shaft up all you are doing is taking some pre-load out of the diff. You might be lucky or you could wind up with a seized diff he said. I decided to let well enough alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly@Kaizer Motor Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 (edited) I ran this by my independent the other day and he said that in all probability in the process of tightening the nuts on the half shaft up all you are doing is taking some pre-load out of the diff. You might be lucky or you could wind up with a seized diff he said. I decided to let well enough alone. Sorry, but he is wrong. Even Nissan recommends this to be done and there is no solid connection between the drive shafts and the diff as 350Z has an independent suspension at the rear so there is no "pre-load" on the diff by the shafts. Edited October 17, 2012 by KaizerMotor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankeesiter Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Sorry, but he is wrong. Even Nissan recommends this to be done and there is no solid connection between the drive shafts and the diff as 350Z has an independent suspension at the rear so there is no "pre-load" on the diff by the shafts. Nevertheless, I'm inclined to leave it unless there could be potential damage. I can put up with the occasional click Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly@Kaizer Motor Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 There is no potential damage. It is only annoying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattyV6 Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Gonna give this a go on ours as the drivers side clicks for a second when pulling away some times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TameRacingDriver Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 Did this on mine. Completely cured... for a week! Now its not as bad as it was, but its still there. I can put up with it, though (for now). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
was8v Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 (edited) Mine was clicking away for ages, this has fixed it for 6 months so far (I used CV grease). 70k 2004 car. Edited January 8, 2013 by was8v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalos Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Mine is click free now too (thanks Mrdeli). Driving up and down multi-story car parks is far less annoying now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattfinch Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Just thought I would post on this, I done mine at the weekend following this thread and it has worked for me too, very happy thanks for the guide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woods1 Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 Did this a few months back and clicking noise has completly gone, even after my tackday there is still no noise! I think people saying that the noise came back need to maybe think about what grease to use, i used copper grease as its water proof, many others will just degrade and come off when they get wet and the noise will return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 (edited) A question for everyone that's done this. When the guide says "clonk the axle in" I take it you but the wooden block against the bolt you have un-done and then hit the wood with a hammer? This should leave the brake disk where it is, but move the part your hitting backwards a bit? Are these normally very stiff? As for the Grease, Ive ordered some of the stuff mentioned in the OP's post. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140357865766 Edited July 15, 2013 by cs2000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fluke Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Did mine this weekend whilst swapping out the discs and pads. Worked a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogyRev Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 This should leave the brake disk where it is, but move the part your hitting backwards a bit? Are these normally very stiff? Yes, I had to actually whack it with a hammer, not just tickle it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 This should leave the brake disk where it is, but move the part your hitting backwards a bit? Are these normally very stiff? Yes, I had to actually whack it with a hammer, not just tickle it. Great, thanks. Now (and don't take this the wrong way.... ) I need to go and get me some wood.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 (edited) SO, did this at the weekend. Mine is a 04 plate car currently on 59,000 miles. Passenger side bolt came off, I used a 2ft breaker bar. Had to keep pushing it but the bolt suddenly snapped loose and I hit my hand on the floor ouch. Anyway, then got some wood and hit the axle out, only thing is, I couldn't really see where to grease, so I unwound the bolt some more, then some more, then some more until it was only on by 2-3 threads, hit it again and the bolt went wonky....uh-oh... Luckily I took it off and saw only minimal damage. After lubricating best I could I very slowly and carefully hand tightened the nut (using the socket for a better grip) and forced it to go on level. I damaged the first 2 ish twists on the bolt end, but the nut was largely fine, once past the initial few threads it went on and torqued up fine. Spin round and do the same on drivers, oh no... Got to undoing the bolt and left it soaking with Plusgas for 15 mins or so just in case it was seized, got out the bar and no way in hell was it moving, so soaked it again, still nothing, tried using some heat, STILL nothing. Luckily I called a garage close to me and they said to pop by. This was 11:30 and the garage closes at 12, so I dropped the car down off of the jack, oh $h1T.... I forgot to put the wheel back on!!! so now i was stuck with 3 wheels on my wagon and a jack stuck under the rear dif with no room for me to get anything into the jack to lift it up again! lol. Luckily I had a hammer so I lifted the jack handle part up, and then hit it down with the hammer, this raised the car an inch orso, enough for me to get the proper handle in. Thankfully the jack being stuck on the dif stopped it from hitting the deck, but the brake disk was only clear of the floor by 2 cm orso, very close. I quickly popped over with all my tools in the car and he got it undone in a few seconds as they had a bigger tool, im guessing a 4-5 ft breaker bar, still took all his weight for a few seconds to get it to move however, and again, when it let go it suddenly let go and the mechanic almost face planted the floor, I actually thought he had snapped the breaker bar by the speed he went down. Anyway, I tightened it up with my tools, went home and then un-did it again and greased that side too. So two points to note here. 1. The bolts are liable to suddenly let go, but need a hell of a lot of force, be aware that your likely to hurt your hands or face plant the floor unless using air tools. 2. As for moving the axle, I found a piece of wood was great initially, but it was actually better to totally remove the nut and fold up some thick cardboard, shove this inside the hole so it covers the bolt and then lightly tap this with a hammer until you've moved it enough. This allowed me to get a larger gap in which it was easier to lubricate, and as long as your careful you wont lose the axle. 3. Even on an 04 with medium mileage the axle moved very freely, you shouldn't need to beat the heck out of it to get it to move. TLDR: clicking solved, 1 hand and 1 mechanic slightly injuired. Edited July 22, 2013 by cs2000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 Thanks for this awesome guide! My clicking has gone. It makes sense how this works, the surface rust on the drive shaft flange sticks to the bearing races. Because the races rotate at different speeds it will stick and unstick as the car stops and moves off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fluke Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 When I followed the guide, I used a large syringe and a 3 inch length of silicon hose to inject the grease into the gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly@Kaizer Motor Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 cs200 you should've told me that you had this issue as I could sort this for you when I've had your car in my workshop and you would safe that 1 hand and 1 mechanic from injury 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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