MDMetal Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hi guys, Ive a feeling my front and rear driver side ARB drop links have suddenly gone (over a week) Im gonna jack it up at the weekend and take a peek. Initially I thought it was just the rears clunking as I went over speed bumps but the front clanked a few times on the way home from work today. So Il probably end up swapping front and rears for uprated ones. I usually park on the street so maintiance is a nightmare however will be visiting people at easter and planning to get the car up so I can plan some longer fixes. Given I feel my handling has turned mushy over the past few months (even on a straight line at 30) what else is it worth me swapping/fixing while Ive got the time? Im guessing its worth checking the front banana arms? Am I right in thinking the arms themselves are fine the issue is the bushes on them needing swapping? Do ARB drop links have much effect on low speed straights? Obviously they help cornering but im guessing by themselves low speed straights dont do anything?! As always cheers for any help guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogyRev Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDMetal Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 Already do plenty! Im sure he's a busy guy but il no doubt be ordering the parts with him, question is tho apart from drop links what else is it worth doing in one shot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Eibach sway bars are are great upgrade, however the sways and links will really have little effect on low speed straights. Same with compression rods even if the ball joint or bush is worn, unless the bush has fallen out which would also give you a loud knock on uneven surfaces. First thing that I would be looking at is your tyres mate, however I am struggling to see how you can have the issues that you have described whilst travelling in a straight line at 30 mph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDMetal Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 I had pondered the sway bars so maybe. In terms if the handling im struggling to see why the tyres would be at fault they're brand new falkens, troubles started before they were changed, basicaly if I ride over a bump the right way the steering goes very light for a few moments, doesn't have to be a big bump just an undullation. Could be I need a few extra psi and an alignment, was just wondering if I had the car up to swap the links if there was anything else worth doing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 snapped spring maybe? I'd check your suspension over to see if its in good nick. Check shocks and spings and pry bar everything. make sure your tyres are at the right psi. Get alignment if you need it. whilst you are doing them things you will notice if they was the cause or what the cause is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDMetal Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 Sounds sensible! Beyond a good visual inspection is there anything worth checking/doing? I guess il know more once Ive got it up for a look! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daryl Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 I replaced my front drop links the other week on the road. Jacked one side of the car up,then got the central jacking point up,and whole front on axle stands. Took 2 hours to do,with alot of faffing around by me in between. Made a real difference to the handling,though mine were knocking like mad. One thing il point out when undoing the bottom nut,the one that faces you when you look under the car. There is an allen key recess in the bolt,dont bother using this,there is a large nut on the back of the link,near the bush. Get a spanner on this,and a spanner on the nut,and undo the nut a little,then the bolt will start to spin,so get the spanner on the back nut and hold that while undoing the nut on the front. The top mount also has a locating piece of angle on it,that will want to spin round when you are undoing the nut,so screw driver or something similar comes in handing to jam under it to stop this. If i was to do it again,i think i could do it in an hour for both sides,just make sure you have a breaker bar at hand,cause them nuts will be tight,and corroded. I used a load of Freeze spray first,then WD40 on the nuts to loosen them up abit. Hope this helps. Dont be afraid to do it on the street,you should be fine. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDMetal Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 Thanks for the tips out of interest does the old pushing down on a corner and seeing how the car moves trick work on the 350? its obviously got very stiff suspension to start with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Thanks for the tips out of interest does the old pushing down on a corner and seeing how the car moves trick work on the 350? its obviously got very stiff suspension to start with! Doubt if you will get it to move unless you have really been supping the porridge. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daryl Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Id say if your car has done around 50k,then this is a good replacement,and alot cheaper than getting the banana arm bushed replaced,as that involves 4 wheel alignment etc after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDMetal Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 Id say if your car has done around 50k,then this is a good replacement,and alot cheaper than getting the banana arm bushed replaced,as that involves 4 wheel alignment etc after. Sorry what's a good replacement? The cars done 41k but getting the previous owner hasn't done anything apart from the bare minimum maintainance wise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daryl Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Replacing the drop links chap. Zmanalex sells revised fronts that are more robust than the ones that were fitted to UK cars,thats what i went for. Id say its worth a punt,as its the cheaper option,and they will need replacing at some point anyway. If that fails,then get the banana arm bushes replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDMetal Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Ok so Ive had a look now and have a few questions and piccies.. Firstly is this a leaky shock? the wet area is definetly oily (ran my finger over it) The other rear appears similar, the fronts are assembled in such a way its hard to tell but they look ok. Secondly the rear ARB, if you imagine reaching into the image and gripping the roll bar just beside the link and pulling the bar towards and pushing away from you, should there be any play? I can get it to move a couple of mm towards/away and can see the rubber around the arb bush move very slightly, up down wise the whole thing is completly rigid only movement towards away from the cameras view point Cheers for any help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 There should be no play on the rear sway bar bushes. Easy swop out and only £8.00 each. Best to remove the rear shock for a bench test, again very easy to remove, 1 bolt at the bottom and 2 nuts at the top. New rear shocks in stock Preowned rear shocks in stock New rear sway bar bushes in stock New rear sway bar drop links in stock. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDMetal Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 whatever it is its getting worse quickly, squeaked all the way to work sounded like front and rear :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDMetal Posted April 8, 2012 Author Share Posted April 8, 2012 New front and rear drop links in (guess who I bought them from... pssst Alex!) Definetly quieter and firmer on the corners, the fronts were a quick change the rears were a right pain, ended up taking them off the bar then taking the mounting plate off with the top link joint still on as they wouldnt budge! All done now though Shock wise I un-did it and gave it a little push, how stiff/resistant should a rear shock be? I can merrily move it one handed but its by no means loose and slack, what sort of resistance should stock rears be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomS Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Was the noise on your fronts like a metallic clunk over speed bumps? I've just put new springs on my car and the fronts seem to have a metallic knock when going up my drive at an angle. Seems fine driving round but at slow speeds at an angle I can really hear it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDMetal Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 The noise was only ever going over bumps, Im not entirely sure by what you mean about "at an angle" do you mean when turning or driving up/down hill? the clunk is only a one off as the links move so movement in a smooth constant direction wont produce it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomS Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Yeah it only occurs over bumps but I really only notice it going up my drive as I go really slowly over it. It's like a clunk from both sides, louder on the drivers side though. Driving in a straight line or on an open road doesn't make any noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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