Cemetery Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Hi there, I have been pondering buying a 350z for quite some time as an idle 'I kinda fancy one of those' thought, but having recently pranged my car and it likely being written off (despite pretty minimal damage...it is an import FTO so sneeze & an insurance co writes them off) those musings have changed into I need to get a new car. Everything I have heard/read about the 350z's have basically been pretty glowing so assuming when I have done a test drive or two I am still set on it I would love some advise. I have seen pre 2006 the tax bracket halves, is it worth in peoples opinions getting the newer engine (and newer car) over this yearly kick in the nuts? I have read some conflicting info (even on here) about petrol use and to stay away from any cars that have been fed 95 ron fuel VS 98 and given the number of cars about that I should just walk away if that isn't the case. Is there a definitive answer on that? Do the newer cars (06-09) have the same issues as the older ones (have read about feathering, noise from the rear of the car & cd jumping)? Do these cars eat clutches & if so how can you a) protect against that & keep said costs down? Are there any specific types of tyres that should replace the originals if the car I get still has them on or are the originals pretty good? I have read a bit about a number of people getting winter tyres for the cold months, is this a must for the 350z? I have never owned a RWD car before although have driven one about a bit. Cheers in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rabbitstew Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Hi and welcome. 1) Tax after 2006 is 460odd quid a year. I know, as im paying something that on mine. Personally for me its worth it as mine is the 313 model with 309bhp (the HR engine is apparently 80% new over the older engines and even has ram air induction from the factory) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VQ_engine#VQ35HR You could buy an older (cheaper) 276bhp model and spent a grand or so modifying it to 300bhp and save yourself a few quid on the road tax. 2) Petrol - the instruction book says only use higher octane fuel. i.e super unleaded. The car will run on normal unleaded but its only recommended in emergencies. You can get the car remapped to run on lower octane, but you loose some power. For the sake of a few pence extra most people run it on v-power or tesco momentum fuel. Economy varies depending on your usage, but as a daily driver I get 25mpg out of it. 3) The feathering problem was only on the early ones and was dialed out from what i understand. You do get tramlining on bad road surfaces if your front tyres are nearly bald. The clicking diff isnt age dependent so can happen on any car. The cd jumping is a "feature" of the bose stereo system. So any cars which have that may experience. You`ll find this usually happens if you havent used the cd for a long long time, then start to try and play a track. Most people do the "ipod hack" which basically turns the "tape" option on the bose into an aux-in, so you can plug in any mp3 / phone / ipod and listen to music through that. 4) Clutches... again, very dependent upon how the cars been driven. Ive heard some people needing need ones at 40k, others are fine. 5) The cars came with Bridgestones as stock, they are very good but expensive. I think i was quoted something like £1000 for a new set. The whole tyre debate is a very big subject on here, but the outcome of it is, is that there are other brands and options out there. I personally use Falken 452`s on mine, which come in at £500 a set. They are perfectly good for my use. However, if you are using the car for a weekend car and are likely to be pushing its limits and want that extra grip then maybe go for something more expensive. 6) Winter tyres.... up to you really. I didnt bother and im fine. Ive had very little experience with RWD appart from powerful sports motorbikes. As long as you watch your throttle you will be perfectly fine. Some people who dont want to ruin their expensive alloys will go and buy a cheap set of standard alloys and put winter tyres on them to use over the winter months when salt will be on the roads etc.. My tyres were pretty much bald anyway just before xmas, so i replaced them with some new falkens, which should last me now for the next 22k or so. Good luck with your search! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roo Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 There is a lot of info re tyres check the search. Maintenance wise i have had my 53 for nearly 3 Years and so far the only thing that has worn out is drop links! (touch wood) The uprev engine has a bit more power but mine is plenty quick enough to scare me. I only use super personally and would more think if someone has been cheap on the fuel what else have they been cheap on. I would keep an eye out on here for one for sale . Thay way you can see its history! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoogyRev Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Welcome Along Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EH 370z Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Good luck & Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R35LEE Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 I think the Rabibt covered everything. Clutches usually last well and we have seen a standard oine do 100,000 on a customers car. All depends on how it is driven. Just make sure you get a 350z with a good gearbox that changes without excess force required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cemetery Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Cheers. Is there anything specific to look for when driving/visually inspecting one of them? I really do not know anything about mechanics etc What would you generally recommend an 07/08/09 plate version if affordable, or an earlier one. I guess with the newer ones common issues may still need to be dealt with & you have the more frequent servicing needs vs the older ones issues should have been dealt with but more things will be worn etc. I am coming from driving an FTO which is around 16 years old and has been really reliable as I understand most Jap cars are so am not adverse to getting an older one (and thus saving a bit on tax each year) but on the flip side I kinda fancy a newer car than I have had in the past but am completely undecided Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hennerz Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Welcome and good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rabbitstew Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Cheers. Is there anything specific to look for when driving/visually inspecting one of them? I really do not know anything about mechanics etc What would you generally recommend an 07/08/09 plate version if affordable, or an earlier one. I guess with the newer ones common issues may still need to be dealt with & you have the more frequent servicing needs vs the older ones issues should have been dealt with but more things will be worn etc. I am coming from driving an FTO which is around 16 years old and has been really reliable as I understand most Jap cars are so am not adverse to getting an older one (and thus saving a bit on tax each year) but on the flip side I kinda fancy a newer car than I have had in the past but am completely undecided Servicing is every 10k - or at least it is on mine. Follows the pattern of minor service then major and around we go. Servicing is very easy, very DIY able, and they are one of the easiest cars ive serviced. Last one on mine was a P1 (minor) and cost me about 40quid for the bits. Newer car vs old... really boils down to money. You can get an older car for 6 or 7 grand. Newer 07 upwards ones are more likely to be 10k upwards. Thats a big difference in price. You could buy the older car and have some nice spare change to play with. Older cars dont always mean more problems. The zed is the sort of car most people have as a second car for weekend fun, so mileage tends to be low on them. I use mine for every day commuting, so i put about 2000 miles a month on mine - at least. I think there is a buyers guide on here, try a bit of searching. In general, id look out for service history - making sure its all complete. Make sure the cars condition reflects the mileage. Zeds are prone to stone chips at the front, so that can be a bit of a give away as to how the owner drives. If in doubt get a mechanic to go with you and give it the once over. Tyres are expensive, so if you can get one with good tyres then thats a plus point! Theres plenty of zeds out there atm as not everyone can afford to run them. Id definately see whats for sale on here, as you know the car will have been looked after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MITZ@CougarStore Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Welcome to the forum... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spursmaddave Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 My car is a 2004 on over 100k, 1st clutch lasted to 76k and last set of tyres lasted 25k and that was with some good runs out with the guys on the forum so not all motorway miles Yes there are some things to look out for but nothing more than with any car really All the little idiosyncrasies are more than made up for with the driving experience, a Zed isn't the lightest or fastest thing on the road but on a nice day on a good road you will be glad you are behind the wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vik54 Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 You'll find the answers to your questions here http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=17 and here http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R35LEE Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Dave, the word is that Miss Daisy is after a new driver if your looking for a second job My car is a 2004 on over 100k, 1st clutch lasted to 76k and last set of tyres lasted 25k and that was with some good runs out with the guys on the forum so not all motorway miles Yes there are some things to look out for but nothing more than with any car really All the little idiosyncrasies are more than made up for with the driving experience, a Zed isn't the lightest or fastest thing on the road but on a nice day on a good road you will be glad you are behind the wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldel Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 I very rarely rev the car over 5k revs, when I mentioned it to Mark at Abbey whilst he was giving the engine a good going over during the remap his response was an incredulous 'you dont, urrr why?' - guess he has a point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaffers Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 rabbit, you mentioned the clicking diff, can you tell me why that happens? what causes it? and more importantly what should be done about it? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATTAK Z Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Welcome to the forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bronzee Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Happy Z hunting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilMH Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Re winter tyres - I wouldn't necessarily say they are a must but I'm certainly glad I have them - they make a significant difference when it's really slippy. Without them you need to be somewhat judicious with the right foot in very cold conditions as the compound of most summer tyres doesn't really work at much lower temperatures. I managed to get mine second hand with smaller wheels (which are cheaper and provide more compliance with the higher profile tyres). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cemetery Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 Cheers guys, (have been offline for a bit hence the delay). I will start reading through the provided links asap. Finally had the insurance come back on my car claim so I have a vague idea on what to spend and can start looking around but still am not sure vs pre or post 06, anyone have any epiphanies they could share with me regarding where to go. The benefits I can see of pre is the cheaper tax & most issues having been encountered & resolved. The benefits of post would be the better engine & potential warrently depending on how new. Also, re insurance on a 350z, I noticed there are some insurers that offer discounts but you needed to be a member of the site, what is involved in becoming a member? (i.e. have I done it by signing up or is there a annual fee/miniumum post level etc)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beavis Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 to the forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragon Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cemetery Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 Any suggestions on the points above? Also how much stock/concern is a FSH with the a main dealer vs independents or specialists in your eyes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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