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stuey

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You always make a determination (consciously or subconsciously) of ANY item's value to establish what it is worth to you

 

Probably the most sensible comment on this thread, Dorian. :thumbs:

 

If weight and ultimate strength had been my only interest when buying rims I would have bought 18" forged. However, my primary objective was aesthetics (wheels that I like, not anyone else) and durability as there was no possibility of me wanting winter and summer wheels and I drive my car every day (hence I didn't want a lip). I would have liked Volks Progressiv TEs but there was no way the budget would stretch. I did my research and came up with an informed decision. I was well aware that they were expensive for cast wheels but they fitted my criteria perfectly and were from a reputable manufacturer behind many OEM wheels. Thus to me they are worth what I paid for them. :)

 

Others like Rickya, Max or Lomoto also made informed choices based upon their own criteria, price being one.

 

If the spokes bend or snap because I didn't buy forged I will be the first to post here as a warning to others. However, I don't see a ton of posts on this or the other Zeds sites complaining that their cast wheels have buckled in normal driving.

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Guest prescience

 

Wheel weight is very important to overall performance as it is key component in “un-sprungâ€

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so what, I agree with his thoughts, and you know for a fact that they are true anyway. Dorian I remember you quoting stuff straight off websites about grip etc. , so what? I agree with those thoughts as you agreed with the ones you quoted.

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oh but no unsprung weight has now become less important because Dorian said so :)

 

well do your own research on unsprung weight and learn from it. then you'll hopefully understand why I diss cheapo wheels in favour of better, forged and lighter ones.

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oh but no unsprung weight has now become less important because Dorian said so :)

 

I said nothing of the sort ;) I don't disagree with the article except insofar as it quotes completely unsubstantiated numbers and passes them off as the 'generally accepted wisdom'

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I'll tell you what I'll do, I'll stop posting on this matter and let everyone (who hasn't got a clue about wheels) think that spending £500, £800, £1000, £1750 on wheeels like TSW, Ruff, Wolfrace, Fox racing and all the other shite flying about on Ebay and elsewhere is a good buy :thumbs: then they'll come back on here and complain to members who told them it was a good buy.

 

I only spent £950 on my wheels, with tyres, doe sthat make the Rays @*!#? :blush:

 

Seriously - what is the point of continuing futile arguments on here. Im not going to pay more than £1000 for a set of wheels. I just dont see the extra value. Maybe Im a crap driver, maybe they arent the best for the car. But guess what - I dont care.

 

As Dorian said, everyone places a value on an item depending on its personal worth to them. Why we have to droan on for page after page after page I dont know.

 

Val thinks expensive wheels are better, others feel cheaper wheels are just as good, and many of us - myself included, havent got the first clue what difference they make other than sometimes different wheels look good. :blush:

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I'll tell you what I'll do, I'll stop posting on this matter and let everyone (who hasn't got a clue about wheels) think that spending £500, £800, £1000, £1750 on wheeels like TSW, Ruff, Wolfrace, Fox racing and all the other shite flying about on Ebay and elsewhere is a good buy :thumbs: then they'll come back on here and complain to members who told them it was a good buy.

 

Sorry Val I just couldnt resist!! :D

 

WEIGHT?

PIAA SUPERROZZA 19" WEIGHT 11.8 KG

TSW THRUXTON 19" WEIGHT 12.5 KG

DIFFERENCE 0.7KG

 

 

http://www.wheelweights.net/?af926ee8

 

 

 

LOOKS?

normal_2306633_27_full.jpg

 

350zdDSC_2109.jpg

 

PRICE?

PIAA SUPERROZZA 18" £1,750 IIRC

TSW THRUXTON 19" £640 DELIVERED

DIFFERENCE SAVED £1,110

 

PINTS OF CARLING BOUGHT WITH £1,100 = APPRX 485 PINTS

THATS APPRX 2 YEARS OF FREE DRINKING EVERY FRIDAY NIGHT :thumbs: WHAT WOULD YOU CHOOSE?

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:lol: who's got PIAAs? they are just copies of mine, you know ;) and no PIAAs are not forged, in fact they should be sued to death for stealing WORK's design so blatantly ;)

 

even with the PIAAS you save 700 grams per corner that's 2.8kgs of unsprung weight ;)

 

PS Chris, some find this quite entertaining ;) Imagine how boring this place would be if we all agreed with each other (or worse, if the mod team overmoderated this forum ;) )

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Just pointing out the irony of asking others to stop spamming posts to death, whilst dragging on this thread for page on end. ;)

 

Feel free to beat everyone into submission until yours is the last post on the subject, meaning it must be the only acceptable view allowed..... only one more member left to brow beat on this thread. Once its done can we lock it?

:yawn:;)

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I'll tell you what I'll do, I'll stop posting on this matter and let everyone (who hasn't got a clue about wheels) think that spending £500, £800, £1000, £1750 on wheeels like TSW, Ruff, Wolfrace, Fox racing and all the other shite flying about on Ebay and elsewhere is a good buy :thumbs: then they'll come back on here and complain to members who told them it was a good buy.

 

Sorry Val I just couldnt resist!! :D

 

WEIGHT?

PIAA SUPERROZZA 19" WEIGHT 11.8 KG

TSW THRUXTON 19" WEIGHT 12.5 KG

DIFFERENCE 0.7KG

 

 

http://www.wheelweights.net/?af926ee8

 

 

 

LOOKS?

normal_2306633_27_full.jpg

 

350zdDSC_2109.jpg

 

PRICE?

PIAA SUPERROZZA 18" £1,750 IIRC

TSW THRUXTON 19" £640 DELIVERED

DIFFERENCE SAVED £1,110

 

PINTS OF CARLING BOUGHT WITH £1,100 = APPRX 485 PINTS

THATS APPRX 2 YEARS OF FREE DRINKING EVERY FRIDAY NIGHT :thumbs: WHAT WOULD YOU CHOOSE?

 

Very interesting weight site. Apparently my 9" fronts weigh 9.89kg and 10" rears 10.48kg. Not bad for 19" cast and on a par with Volk Progressiv MEs which are forged. :)

 

Obviously they will shatter into a million shards at the first pothole though. ;)

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the casting process for yours Digsy according to that info is the strongest one, so you should be ok ;)

 

Chris, people enjoy reading this (you seen the reading count? ) there's no argument going on, (at least from my part) what's your problem?

 

Why do you want to lock a popular thread that has got some good info on it for all to read? :wacko:

 

Spamming? all good info here, surely you can discern the 2? ;)

 

I'm not interested into beating anyone into submission as you say, nor am I interested in convincing anyone about anything. Again, what's your problem?

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My 10p worth...

and a bit long winded...

 

I'm with theMinel guys... sorry but it is true you get what you pay for... I am not getting into the discussion of pretty wheel or ugly wheels...but

 

With expensive rims you get the development that goes behind it... Anyone can get onto a PC with CAD data of a wheel and plot STRES/STRAIN analysis (Spurious Finite Element Analysis software can be downloaded for free from the net!!!) under standard loadings and impact conditions. This will give you a calculated representation of the performance in market according to a piece of software (algorithms and calculations methods can vary significantly from one program to another... )

 

You can then test the wheels for these standard conditions and check the performance, and it can give you "real parts" re-assurance... but that is it... and it will be a small sample of test parts.

 

 

What you pay for on expensive wheels is going the extra mile , checking more severe loads and things such a durability, fatigue, etc, which you can only do by running the wheels for long periods in test tracks that cost money, with drivers that have to be able to cope with high speed driving over long periods (I guess they will be premium rate drivers).

Not only that but bench tests etc... and again cheap companies might try and get away with the minimum...saving on development and time and manpower...it all adds up...

 

Understanding where the limit of the strength of the wheel is and what that equates to in "real use" . Ensuring no fatal failure can occurr taking into account the worst case scenario, of used in markets ( not just UK but the whole world) Think other EU roads are worse that UK roads...

 

You then move into manufactruing and the quality standards that guarantee the casting process, forging processes etc... and the tolerance in the parts performance.

 

I don't know for a fact, but imagine that Nissan would demand a very tight tolerance from the nominal performance they specify, for example within 5% of specified...this means anything outside of this range is scrapped... that is why they cost more ...

 

But suppliers could be making wheels that have a 20% performance difference from nominal....(so long as they pass homologation requirements , which are always the MINIMUM requirement. )

 

you could end up with a very strong wheel and a very weak wheel in the same car... purely on manufacturing variation... and this is not visible in the shop...

 

Cosmetic corrosion etc,,, is another issue and an area where companies can cut down and offer a 1 year warranty etc... that's another matter, more marketing and maybe getting you to buy new wheels after the 1 year expires... but these companies will not build a reputation for quality...

 

I am only interested in wheels structurally. I want to have confidence that the wheel is designed to survive the life of the car and perform over and above basic requirements. ( and my capability, or lack of capability....)

 

A small cheapo company will give you an assurance that in normal conditions and potential normal accidents, the wheel will have a minimum level of performance... That's it...

I don't want to have a doubt in my mind as to how these wheels have been manufactured and tested... They are what decide how my car behaves ... and stays on the balck stuff..

 

What I think is that I want to be sure that the wheel will survive anything i throw at them , high G', High centrifugal forces, a few kerbing strikes, which are not going to cause a delayed fatigue failure later on... etc...

 

If you are going to buy wheels you should buy wheels that match or exceed nissan owns wheels , ( and then decide which are nice ones...)

unfortunately I think this means spending a lot of money...

 

It is why I am not buying wheels yet... to be honest I would not even buy Nismo Wheels... they are design-orientated for race track use...( very specific conditions...), where the concpet of replacing wheels after each race etc... is not so strange...

I would go more towards companies with Euro and Rally experience... Konig, OZ, etc...

 

 

 

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Whoa! Are Superleggera III's really that heavy???? :scare:

 

That site's corking. Interesting to see that the Axis Hiros I was after are made of lead and Antera have clearly found a substance that is heavier than lead to make their wheels (sorry Liam, mate ;) ) Worth keeping the thread open for that alone. :thumbs:

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