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Lights on Dash


Dblock

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245/45/18 rear and 235/40/18 with 100% no problem.

 

Stock tyres sizes

Front 225 45 18 Diameter 558 Rolling circumference 1753

Rear 245 45 18 Diameter 567 rolling circumference 1780

 

Your old tyres:

Front 235/40/18 Diameter 563 rolling circumference 1767

Rear 245/45/18 Diameter 567 rolling circumference 1781

 

Current tyres ( with slip light issue:

Front 225/40/18 Diameter 547 rolling circumference 1718

Rear 245/45/18 Diameter 567 rolling circumference 1781

 

You are now driving around with a 20mm diameter difference between the front & rear therefore the rear wheels are travelling a greater distance (63mm) every rotation compared to the front. So I wouldn`t mind putting my money on tyre sizes that are causing you problem :wacko: Hope this helps :thumbs:

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  • 2 months later...

You are now driving around with a 20mm diameter difference between the front & rear therefore the rear wheels are travelling a greater distance (63mm) every rotation compared to the front. So I wouldn`t mind putting my money on tyre sizes that are causing you problem :wacko: Hope this helps :thumbs:

 

 

Paypal will be fine mate :p

 

So I have been running 225/40/18 on the front and 245/45/18's on the back. My slip, tcs, abs and handbrake lights where all on. I thought maybe alot of people on here are right about the whole tyre size things.

 

So then I read up and its relationship between the front and back so I changed my rears to 245/40/18 and left the front at 225/40/18. Still the same lights. On a side note the car drives so so so much better on 40's. The ride is nicer not bouncy but firm in a good way. Turn in is sharper. Accelration from standstill seems easier as you dont have the mashoosive side walls. The car looks loads better too. It sits lower to the ground and there is less of an arch gap. Looks awesome Il get pics up soon.

 

So then the kind Sir Stew lent me his 225/45/18 and 245/45/18 wheels and tyres. Guess what same lights on the dash. So its not the tyres.

 

ABS sensor or could it be something else?

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I put a post up in the Croyden Valley Park Section as the same thing happened to me for no reason at all. It happend when I 1st got the car and twice since. Plus the previous Zed.

It's just a quirk that happens and lots of people have had the same problem.

It's fine now but when it kept happening I just took the negative lead of the battery for a few mins

and it behaves itself.

Give it a try and see what happens.

Not saying mine is the best way but it sure is the cheapest.

Think that's why Nissan put a keep a 10mm spanner in the tool kit!

Thenoname

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I put a post up in the Croyden Valley Park Section as the same thing happened to me for no reason at all. It happend when I 1st got the car and twice since. Plus the previous Zed.

It's just a quirk that happens and lots of people have had the same problem.

It's fine now but when it kept happening I just took the negative lead of the battery for a few mins

and it behaves itself.

Give it a try and see what happens.

Not saying mine is the best way but it sure is the cheapest.

Think that's why Nissan put a keep a 10mm spanner in the tool kit!

Thenoname

 

 

Il give it a bash mate. Cheers :thumbs:

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Had the ECU come on when the tyres size was wrong.

But then the car would not go over 20mph either.

This latest occasion happened after the handbrake was applied to hard.

Not sure why it was difficult to release or even if the 2 incidences are linked.

All I know is that when I did release it the hand brake light did not go out and everything

else came on.

 

Same thing on my Nissan Pathfinder.

Battery disconnect fixed that as well.

:bounce:

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Hi Dblock,

 

Was wondering whether you had any success with finding this fault? As I have the identical issue with me! MY handbrake, ABS, TC and ESP light illuminate only when I'm on the carriageway going over 60 odd. Use to only do it once every two weeks now it happens twice every commute!

 

Let me know if you had some luck :)

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Are there a lot of pot holes lol?

Try taking the negative off the bettery and leave it off for 30 mins or so.

Not sure why this seems to work but it always has for me.

In an ideal world you would have an arrangement with a Nissan expert to drive the car

to them why the lights are on.

Then when you arrive leave the car running!

At least then it will show up on the fault reader and the problem may be addressed

in the correct mannor.

My way is just a quick fix.

thenoname

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How long did you leave the battery off for?

would suggest you go to who ever services your car whilst the lights are on

and get them to put a fault finder on the serial port, or what ever it is they do.

It seems to me that you do have a genuine fault.

Surely it cant be something as daft as a loose ignition wire!

Sorry cant be of any more help

Thenoname

:wacko:

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