rm cya Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 thought id whack this up as a how to for people found this video on the tube aswel. It really is simple. Done mine the other day. Fronts: - Remove strutbrace 12mm nuts + bolts (you don't need to loosen the adjustment, just whizz out the mounting bolts) - remove wheels - remove lower suspension leg bolt (17mm socket + spanner on other end) - remove anti rollbar droplink nut - 17mm. Buzz it off with a gun. - upper wishbone bolts either side of suspension leg - 14mm spanner - top mount nuts, 3 12mm nuts - 12mm brake pipe nut - pull off abs sensor from leg brackets (2) - Pull suspension leg back a bit to remove the 2 14mm upper wishbone bolts fully. - Wangle out leg. - Compress spring - gun off 17mm top mount nut - pull off spring - Fit eibach spring against the seat stops (no need to compress) - copper grease top mount so it don't creak - fit top mount - gun up top mount. Refit. Remember before you locate the 3 top mount studs back in the strut tower, line up the upper wishbone and slide the bolts in. Rears: - Remove wheel - jack under spring cup - undo 17mm nut and bolt holding spring cup to hub. - no need to undo the back bolt. - lower cup. push down by hand/foot - remove spring. - leave the top rubber in place - remove bottom rubber. Clean + fit to spring against stop - push down cup/seating arm - Fit spring - jack up till hole aligned - do up 17mm but and bolt. Job done 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marzman Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Hopefully I'll be the first person to use this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveW Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Changing the springs is pretty easy Chris. I reckon the hardest bit is manoeuvring the struts out or maybe getting the damper rod nuts undone, you really need offset / swan neck spanners to hold the rod whilst you undo the nut not the bodge method I used lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marzman Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Changing the springs is pretty easy Chris. I reckon the hardest bit is manoeuvring the struts out or maybe getting the damper rod nuts undone, you really need offset / swan neck spanners to hold the rod whilst you undo the nut not the bodge method I used lol. Cheers Steve. I haven't got those spanners so it's the perfect excuse to buy them ...to be honest Im only worried about getting the nuts undone, that's what I always struggle with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rm cya Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Do you have a battery gun? I managed to buzz it right off without having to use spanners. And you don't need the 'box spanners'. Normal spanners with the slightly angled ring end work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveW Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I suppose it depends on the spanner design as my standard angled ones wouldn't go in so had to buy the larger offset ones but it's always any excuse to buy tools I do seem to have a recollection of when I did mine there is quite a lot of preload on the suspension members at the front and it took two of us to get the struts out and back in. One standing on the arm and one moving the strut maybe we missed loosening something tho.... Oh yeah also on the rears mark the positions of the camber bolts in case you have to loosen these to get the bottom arm low enough I had to couldn't get the springs out without. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marzman Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Do you have a battery gun? I managed to buzz it right off without having to use spanners. And you don't need the 'box spanners'. Normal spanners with the slightly angled ring end work fine. What battery gun is it? I've been eyeing up one of these for a while but everyone on here said it'd be @*!#. http://www.amazon.co.uk/12v-Impact-Wren ... rid_pt_1_2 Oh yeah also on the rears mark the positions of the camber bolts in case you have to loosen these to get the bottom arm low enough I had to couldn't get the springs out without. Good luck Good advice, cheers Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rm cya Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Haha that looks turd mate! Buy cheap but twice and all that! I got a beastie SnapOn 18v gun. 600ftlb breaking torque I didn't have to loosen the rear camber bolt. Was enough movement to get it out. Was tight but managed. Fronts, when pulling the strut out, lean down on the top of the disc and it should be enough movement to pull the strut out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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