Mctwist Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Hey guys, I know this has been covered a few times and i've read the threads on here. What i wanted to know was, is there a consensus with zed owners about rust protection? My car is a daily so it gets driven in the winter and the rain. Never driven on snow or ice so that means to exposure to salt. I spoke to a paintwork specialist i know and he recommends waxoyl over underseal due to underseal being very brittle, waxoyl copes with stone chips better. Are there specialists out there that people recommend? Or would it better to simply rinse and then clean the underside of the car with a big can of WD-40 and go over with a can of clear waxoyl from halfords? Or would just a rinse and big spray of WD-40 do it? Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vik54 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Did your specialist actually inspect the underside of your car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Waxoyl is old school and isn't regarded as good any more. I'm going to be using electrox then dynax ub. Waxoyl can actually retain moisture and salt but it is self healing. It doesn't stop rust though and some people have removed it to find it's rotten underneath. You could go with something like stonechip or dynax ub which is rubberised to give it flex. I'm using electrox aswell as it's s zinc based primer which will actively stop rust forming. Also you need to treat any rust that is there first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mctwist Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Did your specialist actually inspect the underside of your car? Hello again! No it was just a friendly discussion when i had my 200sx' bonnet resprayed. The car is rust free. Waxoyl is old school and isn't regarded as good any more. I'm going to be using electrox then dynax ub. Waxoyl can actually retain moisture and salt but it is self healing. It doesn't stop rust though and some people have removed it to find it's rotten underneath. You could go with something like stonechip or dynax ub which is rubberised to give it flex. I'm using electrox aswell as it's s zinc based primer which will actively stop rust forming. Also you need to treat any rust that is there first. Dblock, with regards to the bilt hamber stuff, will this be something your going to do yourself or are u having a workshop do it for you? If by yourself, does it just go straight on or is any prep required ? Thanks for the responses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I'm planning on doing it myself but haven't got round to it yet. Bilt hamber says make sure the surface is rust free to begin with for the electrox or 5-10% rusty if your going with dynax ub. I've got some deox gel a wire brush and vactan if need be too. That should clean it. Rinse with white spirit then brush on electrox. 2 layers should do it then I could brush or spray dynax ub but you need at least 2 coats. For hard to reach areas I've got some dynax s50 spray. That's like waxoyl but better supposedly. I was going to cheap out but i though why not do this properly as it's piece of mind and it's a point when it comes to selling. On my 172 I was justinh going to clean it, red oxide then dynax ub but as I have 2 cars bulk worked out eaiser and will be a better product. Although on stuff I painted before is resisting rust with red oxide and paint so it can work. Pros of a place doing it is it's ment to be super messy, you don't have to do anywork and they might have specialist tools to do it. Cons expensive, they don't keep up to date with modern rust proofing. They won't clean it and so on as it's time consuming. They might not do as good job as you. If you use your own stuff and they apply it wrong they will blame the supplied stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mctwist Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 The Bilt hamber stuff does look good, i just had a look through most of their range and as you've described you can pretty much take care of the whole thing with their products. The deox gel looks really fiddly and difficult to remove from the underside of the car, would another option be to use hydrate 80 to convert any potential rust spots? Would an alternative to the white spirit for cleaning be to go over with the surfex HD degreaser and rinse off? (just looking at alternatives in case i can't get hold of certain things - although whitespirit ain't hard to get lol!). My plan would be to pretty much do the whole underside excl. the exhaust. Is there anywhere else that needs protecting ? Taking off the liners and do the wheel arches too for example? cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 As Im using the electrox they advised me to have clean metal and not have it treated other wise the zinc wont be a sacraficial layer as it isnt touching the metal. Ive used vactan which is pretty much the same as hydrate 80. If your not using the zinc primer or understand that it wont be doing the job of a zinc primer but just a primer on the treated spots you should be fine. Im going to use surfex hd first to clean it but once Ive cleaned it back I dont want to put water near it as I dont want to lock moisture in. I quick key then some white spirit. Surfex is better in 5l as it isnt diluted and you can mix it to your own strength. Thats pretty much my plan but I might paint my springs, shocks and any arms sticking out the car. I would also do the wheel arches and when you open the bonnet under neith the airbox is like a ledge thing Im going to put some dynax s50 though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidnightRacer Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Dinitrol comes highly recommended in the mx5 world. Im not needing to do mine yet but ill be looking at that when i do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mctwist Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Cool, so the plan i reckon should be... Rust treatment (if any), then a clean (degreaser), dry, key+white spirit, apply electrox, then a couple of coats of dynax UB. Sound about right? Thanks again for the help mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mctwist Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Dinitrol comes highly recommended in the mx5 world. Im not needing to do mine yet but ill be looking at that when i do! There seems to be quite a bewildering array of stuff on their website! What Dinitrol stuff will you be using ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidnightRacer Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 If you look under the classic car section i would say the top 3 would be of most use but you can ask them to advise you based on your requirements Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mctwist Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Awesome, ill probably do that when the time comes (when it gets warmer lol!) thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Cool, so the plan i reckon should be... Rust treatment (if any), then a clean (degreaser), dry, key+white spirit, apply electrox, then a couple of coats of dynax UB. Sound about right? Thanks again for the help mate Yes thats a very good way of doing it, but you could miss the electrox for red oxide for a cheaper option but if your planning on keeping it I think its worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vik54 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 The reason I asked if the underside has been inspected is you may actually get a nice surprise and find that it was done by whoever imported the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrh Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 ...it was just a friendly discussion when i had my 200sx' bonnet resprayed. If you're coming from 200SX then the Z is a lot better protected. The earliest imported Z's are almost 10 years old now and there's no signs of rust problems... Although the rear arches aren't well lined and you'll find plenty of dirt stuck up there. I gave mine a quick layer of Waxoyl just to keep it looking tidy and protect the brake lines/suspension bushes from the weather. Those items will cause MOT headaches years before you find a hole in the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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