agentsmith350 Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Hi , Just installed a double din and now whenever i start the car its 90% of the time got no sound ! , works perfectly well first to turns of the key but as soon as i start the car sound goes , can take the key out , put it back in and turn to the point of starting the engine and sounds fine again , until i start it and arrghhh Iv had it all out 3 times and checked all earths ,RCA Leads ect and still cant fathom it out , iv now broken the parking camera i got the double din for in the first place and cut by hands to ribbons Someone please help ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zugara Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Sure you are wired up on the positive side correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentsmith350 Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 Sure you are wired up on the positive side correctly? attached remote wire to the blue wire on the harness , seemed ok on the multimeter ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentsmith350 Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 Just a thought , does the ict adapter need a seperate ground to the headunits loom ? id crimped it into the same cable id ground the loom with and think that works since its fine when on the first 2 clicks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernspeed Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 I've had a constant battle with Alpine over my HU with bluetooth since it was installed in June. It would work fine at first then after every start the functionality would degrade until the BT won't work at all. After several HU swaps, re-flashes etc they could never reproduce the problem on the bench. Their top guy now feels that , as the Z uses a remote powered amp, that the HU gets a severe spike (low then high) of power which is causing the problem . Ian from Quantum AV is coming over yet again, free of charge yet again, next week to run a direct positive instead of going through the loom as the thought is this will cure the problem. Maybe your HU is sensitive to this spike and shutting down/resetting with each start? Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentsmith350 Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 I've had a constant battle with Alpine over my HU with bluetooth since it was installed in June. It would work fine at first then after every start the functionality would degrade until the BT won't work at all. After several HU swaps, re-flashes etc they could never reproduce the problem on the bench. Their top guy now feels that , as the Z uses a remote powered amp, that the HU gets a severe spike (low then high) of power which is causing the problem . Ian from Quantum AV is coming over yet again, free of charge yet again, next week to run a direct positive instead of going through the loom as the thought is this will cure the problem. Maybe your HU is sensitive to this spike and shutting down/resetting with each start? Just a thought. It does reboot as i turn the key to start it , i should be able to run in a live from the battery , my only concern with that is that it would always be on and drain the battry , i could always fit a switch under the footwell but shouldnt have to do all this surely ! , Let me know what your guy says Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernspeed Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 I've had a constant battle with Alpine over my HU with bluetooth since it was installed in June. It would work fine at first then after every start the functionality would degrade until the BT won't work at all. After several HU swaps, re-flashes etc they could never reproduce the problem on the bench. Their top guy now feels that , as the Z uses a remote powered amp, that the HU gets a severe spike (low then high) of power which is causing the problem . Ian from Quantum AV is coming over yet again, free of charge yet again, next week to run a direct positive instead of going through the loom as the thought is this will cure the problem. Maybe your HU is sensitive to this spike and shutting down/resetting with each start? Just a thought. It does reboot as i turn the key to start it , i should be able to run in a live from the battery , my only concern with that is that it would always be on and drain the battry , i could always fit a switch under the footwell but shouldnt have to do all this surely ! , Let me know what your guy says You should have a constant live and a switched live as I understand it. When you're cranking the live direct from the battery (which is what he's going to do to mine) should stop this problem. The constant live in the loom is effected by cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentsmith350 Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 I've had a constant battle with Alpine over my HU with bluetooth since it was installed in June. It would work fine at first then after every start the functionality would degrade until the BT won't work at all. After several HU swaps, re-flashes etc they could never reproduce the problem on the bench. Their top guy now feels that , as the Z uses a remote powered amp, that the HU gets a severe spike (low then high) of power which is causing the problem . Ian from Quantum AV is coming over yet again, free of charge yet again, next week to run a direct positive instead of going through the loom as the thought is this will cure the problem. Maybe your HU is sensitive to this spike and shutting down/resetting with each start? Just a thought. It does reboot as i turn the key to start it , i should be able to run in a live from the battery , my only concern with that is that it would always be on and drain the battry , i could always fit a switch under the footwell but shouldnt have to do all this surely ! , Let me know what your guy says You should have a constant live and a switched live as I understand it. When you're cranking the live direct from the battery (which is what he's going to do to mine) should stop this problem. The constant live in the loom is effected by cranking. Cranking ? , Yeah there is a constant live and a switched both going to the headunit behind the dash , Only thing is when wiring a perm live to the headunit it will always have power and if like mine a L.E.D will always be on that could drain the battery if left for a while , and i dont really want a light on in the car 24/7. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernspeed Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 I've had a constant battle with Alpine over my HU with bluetooth since it was installed in June. It would work fine at first then after every start the functionality would degrade until the BT won't work at all. After several HU swaps, re-flashes etc they could never reproduce the problem on the bench. Their top guy now feels that , as the Z uses a remote powered amp, that the HU gets a severe spike (low then high) of power which is causing the problem . Ian from Quantum AV is coming over yet again, free of charge yet again, next week to run a direct positive instead of going through the loom as the thought is this will cure the problem. Maybe your HU is sensitive to this spike and shutting down/resetting with each start? Just a thought. It does reboot as i turn the key to start it , i should be able to run in a live from the battery , my only concern with that is that it would always be on and drain the battry , i could always fit a switch under the footwell but shouldnt have to do all this surely ! , Let me know what your guy says You should have a constant live and a switched live as I understand it. When you're cranking the live direct from the battery (which is what he's going to do to mine) should stop this problem. The constant live in the loom is effected by cranking. Cranking ? , Yeah there is a constant live and a switched both going to the headunit behind the dash , Only thing is when wiring a perm live to the headunit it will always have power and if like mine a L.E.D will always be on that could drain the battery if left for a while , and i dont really want a light on in the car 24/7. Cranking= starting the engine. LEDs take a tiny amount of juice assuming it is just an LED 'dot' and not a whole display that's on constantly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentsmith350 Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 I've had a constant battle with Alpine over my HU with bluetooth since it was installed in June. It would work fine at first then after every start the functionality would degrade until the BT won't work at all. After several HU swaps, re-flashes etc they could never reproduce the problem on the bench. Their top guy now feels that , as the Z uses a remote powered amp, that the HU gets a severe spike (low then high) of power which is causing the problem . Ian from Quantum AV is coming over yet again, free of charge yet again, next week to run a direct positive instead of going through the loom as the thought is this will cure the problem. Maybe your HU is sensitive to this spike and shutting down/resetting with each start? Just a thought. It does reboot as i turn the key to start it , i should be able to run in a live from the battery , my only concern with that is that it would always be on and drain the battry , i could always fit a switch under the footwell but shouldnt have to do all this surely ! , Let me know what your guy says You should have a constant live and a switched live as I understand it. When you're cranking the live direct from the battery (which is what he's going to do to mine) should stop this problem. The constant live in the loom is effected by cranking. Cranking ? , Yeah there is a constant live and a switched both going to the headunit behind the dash , Only thing is when wiring a perm live to the headunit it will always have power and if like mine a L.E.D will always be on that could drain the battery if left for a while , and i dont really want a light on in the car 24/7. Cranking= starting the engine. LEDs take a tiny amount of juice assuming it is just an LED 'dot' and not a whole display that's on constantly? Yeah just an LED button , so if im doing this il need to wire both power wires on the headunit to the perm live and the amp live as well , Would this not mean the speakers would be on all the time ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernspeed Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 No don't wire everything live. Just wire the permanent live you have at the moment direct to the battery instead of through the loom. This isn't tested and guaranteed, this is what Alpine's boffins want to try on mine to stop the spike and it sound feasible to me. But defiantly don't wire the switched live to permanent live! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentsmith350 Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 No don't wire everything live. Just wire the permanent live you have at the moment direct to the battery instead of through the loom. This isn't tested and guaranteed, this is what Alpines boffins want to try on mine to stop the spike and it sound feasible to me. But defiantly don't wire the switched live to permanent live! Ah right , i dont really see how that would change anything if its working sometimes but il give it a go ! so just a power lead straight from the battery to the head units perm power loom ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernspeed Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 No don't wire everything live. Just wire the permanent live you have at the moment direct to the battery instead of through the loom. This isn't tested and guaranteed, this is what Alpines boffins want to try on mine to stop the spike and it sound feasible to me. But defiantly don't wire the switched live to permanent live! Ah right , i dont really see how that would change anything if its working sometimes but il give it a go ! so just a power lead straight from the battery to the head units perm power loom ? Yeah my Alpine unit worked fine all the time, it was just the bluetooth connection that degraded after every start that showed a problem. Wiring through a loom can have quite a drain when the starter motor is cranking so the battery feed direct should get around that. Just jury rig a live from the battery to the perm live at the HU and try it before wiring it in through the firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentsmith350 Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 No don't wire everything live. Just wire the permanent live you have at the moment direct to the battery instead of through the loom. This isn't tested and guaranteed, this is what Alpines boffins want to try on mine to stop the spike and it sound feasible to me. But defiantly don't wire the switched live to permanent live! Ah right , i dont really see how that would change anything if its working sometimes but il give it a go ! so just a power lead straight from the battery to the head units perm power loom ? Yeah my Alpine unit worked fine all the time, it was just the bluetooth connection that degraded after every start that showed a problem. Wiring through a loom can have quite a drain when the starter motor is cranking so the battery feed direct should get around that. Just jury rig a live from the battery to the perm live at the HU and try it before wiring it in through the firewall. Cheers will give it a shot , Cant help but think its something with the remote amp wire though which would run from the ignition live Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
un1eash Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 I dont think you have it wired up correct. Where is the blue wire connected to? Did you run a seperate earth to the chassis? ps. You shouldnt need a direct battery feed, the old Alpine 60w units use to need this but newer models dont. If you do plan on connecting the yellow perm live to the battery dont forget to use an inline fuse close to the battery end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentsmith350 Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 I dont think you have it wired up correct. Where is the blue wire connected to? Did you run a seperate earth to the chassis? ps. You shouldn't need a direct battery feed, the old Alpine 60w units use to need this but newer models dont. If you do plan on connecting the yellow perm live to the battery dont forget to use an inline fuse close to the battery end. Hmm , The Blue wire from the ICT Adapter goes to the Blue "Amp" wire on the headunit I didn't run a seperate earth at first but it still worked , tried it with an earth to a bolt under the passenger foot-well ( Worked on multimeter ) but no change. What iv done now is connect the perm and ignition live together and switch the head unit on before starting the car , it dosnt reboot since its always got power and so still has sound when the car starts , i dont want to leave it like this as the light , motor and Bluetooth stay on so am worried about my battery . I still notice that the sound lowers when the engine starts and as im driving it will get louder for a second now and again as if the rear speakers arnt coming on properly , iv checked all the cabling for them and ran tests with the settings so the sound is just to the rear and it does the same , Sound but fading sound now and again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
un1eash Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 You need the seperate earth, also check the connections where you connect the earth. It will work sometimes without it as the headunit earths itself through the mount but this isnt enough to give it a good 12v feed. There are a couple bolts at the top behind the dials where you can earth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentsmith350 Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 You need the seperate earth, also check the connections where you connect the earth. It will work sometimes without it as the headunit earths itself through the mount but this isnt enough to give it a good 12v feed. There are a couple bolts at the top behind the dials where you can earth it. Ok so could this be whats causing it to work when the engines not on and dip the sound how iv wired it now ? The only reason im still not sure is that my understanding was it would not work at all with no earth , and definitely not have a pattern to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
un1eash Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Wiring it up correctly would be my first port of call. It is possible for the radio to turn on without the extra earth wire if the headunit is bolted to the car as it can earth itself through the casing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentsmith350 Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 Wiring it up correctly would be my first port of call. It is possible for the radio to turn on without the extra earth wire if the headunit is bolted to the car as it can earth itself through the casing. Ok , So the last 2 hours iv used my half hour lunch break Iv wired an extra earth to the point behind the gauges , connected the headunits loom to this and the ICT adapters black wire - No change , still lucky dip whether i have sound after starting the engine There is a drop in power when i start the car from the ignition live , this is normal and did it on the old unit and previous cars , only difference is the headunit has no sound after the power comes back on. Im ready to chuck it all away and return to standard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernspeed Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 So did you try a direct live from the battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentsmith350 Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 So did you try a direct live from the battery? Well i connected the ignition live to the perm and it works but keeps everything on all the time so cant leave it that way. Didn't see what attaching the perm live to battery would accomplish after doing the above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernspeed Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 So did you try a direct live from the battery? Well i connected the ignition live to the perm and it works but keeps everything on all the time so cant leave it that way. Didn't see what attaching the perm live to battery would accomplish after doing the above. Surely if that worked it shows a weakness in the constant live so a better constant live (direct from the battery) would fix it? Like I said earlier, just try a wire direct from the battery through your open door and onto the loom constant live connection. If it works, route it properly, if it doesn't you've wasted 5 minutes and have ruled out one possible problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
agentsmith350 Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 So did you try a direct live from the battery? Well i connected the ignition live to the perm and it works but keeps everything on all the time so cant leave it that way. Didn't see what attaching the perm live to battery would accomplish after doing the above. Surely if that worked it shows a weakness in the constant live so a better constant live (direct from the battery) would fix it? Like I said earlier, just try a wire direct from the battery through your open door and onto the loom constant live connection. If it works, route it properly, if it doesn't you've wasted 5 minutes and have ruled out one possible problem. Sorry im not sure how that shows a weakness in the constant live ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spursmaddave Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Unfortunately it may be your headunit at fault, what type make is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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