buster Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 nice work m8....cant believe you didnt call me for assistance on this job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 it's opening a tad early... mine is set to open at 80 too but feel it's opening WAY earlier then that, havent tried it with a pyometer yet (have the same as you in a drawer) Think it's pretty good that it's cooling that well just sitting there idling! There is one note that comes into my head and that's if you dont drive the car around properly (not saying you dont) there will be condence buildup in the oil if it's cooling it all the time and not getting up to proper temp. I'm not 100% sure what was said in relation to that but worth checking it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djtimo Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Just for info guys I had to black bag my oil cooler last winter. I have a mocal 80C remote stat and big mocal cooler and with "normal" road driving I would only see 70C which is a bit to cold IMO. I taped off the air flow hole to the cooler and got it up to 80-82C with the same driving style. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 Thanks for the feedback - going on a test drive later as my sender arrived today Will see what oil temps do on the move - my biggest problem was on track where I get 130 degrees very quickly! road use rarley gets over 90 -100. She's mostly fair weather and track use so winter use won't be an issue. Interesting point on condensation will keep an eye on it - define "drive it properly" you know me Miss Daisy asks me to hurry up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Mcgoo Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Looking good Chris. I've got to plumb in my Oil Temp gauge yet, its wired up and fitted in the pod but not connected yet. I've got the same brass block for the Vortech feed pipe and pressure sender but I need an extra fitting for the temp sender. Would I be right in saying the Vortech feed pipe is 4 JIC and the block has 1/8 NPT holes ? (I'm away working so can't check) If so I might be able to find a suitable fitting at work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 Thanks My oil temp is not connected there, I have the brass block which is a "T" piece all 1/8 NPT fittings - not sure if the block is a 1/8 standard but if not the Vortech kit has an adapter in - (Never seen a standard one to compare) all I did was add a 90 bend in so the Pressure sensor points forwards instead of straight out - the SC pickup is in the same place. I think its a 4 but I used the same adapter that was there before which has a 1/8 NPT at the other end. I do know the guy that I get all my bits from (pipe and adapter wise) said - "You always bring me these wierd American fittings" last time I went in I can get you anything you need if you don't have one laying about (I bet you have though!) Are you going to add an extra T piece then? if your oil pressure sender is there at the moment anyway? If you need an adapter let me know I'll get one posted up to you mate Looking good Chris. I've got to plumb in my Oil Temp gauge yet, its wired up and fitted in the pod but not connected yet. I've got the same brass block for the Vortech feed pipe and pressure sender but I need an extra fitting for the temp sender. Would I be right in saying the Vortech feed pipe is 4 JIC and the block has 1/8 NPT holes ? (I'm away working so can't check) If so I might be able to find a suitable fitting at work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Mcgoo Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Thanks My oil temp is not connected there, I have the brass block which is a "T" piece all 1/8 NPT fittings - not sure if the block is a 1/8 standard but if not the Vortech kit has an adapter in - (Never seen a standard one to compare) all I did was add a 90 bend in so the Pressure sensor points forwards instead of straight out - the SC pickup is in the same place. I think its a 4 but I used the same adapter that was there before which has a 1/8 NPT at the other end. I do know the guy that I get all my bits from (pipe and adapter wise) said - "You always bring me these wierd American fittings" last time I went in I can get you anything you need if you don't have one laying about (I bet you have though!) Are you going to add an extra T piece then? if your oil pressure sender is there at the moment anyway? If you need an adapter let me know I'll get one posted up to you mate Yeah mine looks exactly the same as yours did before you added the sandwich plate, so adding a t-piece would do the trick I suppose. Where is your temp sensor fitted then? Thanks for the offer, I'll have a look to see what I've got and let you know if I get stuck for a fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 Mine is in the sump - but I have an APS oil pan which is bigger and I think it has the blanks in it ready. The problem with a T piece would be the length of the probe - don't want to restrict flow to the SC discussion on the location here - http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-driv ... ut-it.html not sure if they actually came to a conclusion though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 Just for info guys I had to black bag my oil cooler last winter. I have a mocal 80C remote stat and big mocal cooler and with "normal" road driving I would only see 70C which is a bit to cold IMO. I taped off the air flow hole to the cooler and got it up to 80-82C with the same driving style. LOL looks like I know have the same problem - test drive tonight (its bloomin cold out mind) standstill oil is at 70° on the motorway it now drops below 60° So will need to do the same as you and blank the airflow if I use her in the cold weather Gone from to hot to to cold Having said that I'll see what it does next summer before I worry to much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Temp sensor's need oil flow over them to read correctly. But reading in the sump is a pretty good idea. But I think you better readign the oil temp before it goes back into the motor after running htrough the oil cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 Thanks Mark Buster called me this morning and pointed out it was the coldest its been here all year - good night for a comparison Of course I'm comparing it as it was pre oil cooler (sensor hasn't been moved) so it's made a difference but I agree and the rad is showing 70 with the pyrometer - will look at adding another sandwich plate and putting the sensor in that. Ian - you still got that spare one floating about?? Temp sensor's need oil flow over them to read correctly. But reading in the sump is a pretty good idea. But I think you better readign the oil temp before it goes back into the motor after running htrough the oil cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Temp sensor's need oil flow over them to read correctly. But reading in the sump is a pretty good idea. But I think you better readign the oil temp before it goes back into the motor after running htrough the oil cooler. my temp sensor will be in the sandwich plate so might be a good comparison. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 If it is in the sandwich plate it can be in the oil flow to the oil cooler or oil flow from the cooler, so you need to make sure they are in the same place before comparing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 Temp sensor's need oil flow over them to read correctly. But reading in the sump is a pretty good idea. But I think you better readign the oil temp before it goes back into the motor after running htrough the oil cooler. my temp sensor will be in the sandwich plate so might be a good comparison. Comparison for what a volcanologists I've heard how hot yours can get Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 If it is in the sandwich plate it can be in the oil flow to the oil cooler or oil flow from the cooler, so you need to make surethey are in the same place before comparing. Was going to compare between measuring at the plate and the sump as Keyser's doing. I'm actually not sure where the heck the mech stuck the sensors in... need to get down there and have a good look myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Hello Everybody - or the 2 members that still read this thread and the poor sod that stumbled in from a Google search! So I thought I'd bite the bullet today and retire the Zed from use until next year's sunny weather (maybe longer) Bob as usual was at the Zedshed but as soon as I got his out we pulled mine in and started the strip down a few pic's of the progress so far - This was noted for improvement I don't rate Zip ties as a good way of keeping the pipes in place This (power steering rad) will also be looked at, firstly it's zip tied and secondly its not getting much air there! Something else to repair/replace! Lots of cleaning going to be needed as well! Progress for today Will keep you updated "If we did the things we are capable of, we would astound ourselves." ~Thomas Edison That's all folks ......................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buster Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 and so it begins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 I can't believe they used cable ties to hold the IC piping You need these http://www.touge.co.uk/fluorescent-pink ... 1142-p.asp Will go nice wth your neons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 who ever used zippies that way! Need to clean some of mine up too! Deffo org install with no care to quality, exaplins the dull face on the first pic at least you'll put it right, might not work but it'll look the buzz... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasso Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 Good work Chris, great to see the stripdown commencing. Listen once my car comes back from corrections and lights mods I'll give you a shout to come down and lend a hand..... Coffee or Tea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 whilst you are they are you putting some lightweight pulleys on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 Ian - Thanks Mate Could you find some in blue? My neon's are blue just like yours. Zip ties andlid - Spot on mate it will look the bizz (but probably not run) as for the "dull face" that's actually quite normal for Buster Wasso - Always Coffee mate more than welcome down and I look forwards to it. Hope yours is coming along well! Dblock - Yes mate have a set of pulleys with all the other bits ready Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 Forgot to mention - Saturday I installed the BM short shifter (Thanks Andlid) and took her for one last run ... sweet Not the world's most interesting mod to write up but I said I'd try and document everything - remove the trim undo 3 bolts and the 1 bolt for the linkage - file out a notch (apparently for reverse) put in the new stick and bolt back together - Side by side - As is - Notch filed out - The all important Before and after shots That's all folks.................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 at least you will get reverse in ! Ha ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Following every update with real interest and glad you have the garage rather the tent to work under with winter coming on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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