slimjim Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 Bit of a weird one... but ... On the Zed, the clutch is pretty high up. Not right at the top (and not slipping at all) but very high up. On the 118d, the clutch is very low. Right at the bottom. I drive both and find it easy to switch between the two... but Tam only ever drives the BMW and finds it really hard to get the clutch right on the Zed and "hates" driving it because of it; and I KNOW if she drove it more she would love it. Then yesterday, her car went in for a huge service, replacing the turbo, gonna take 7-10 days for them to send of and re-condition the tubby. This morning when she had to drive mine to work she says she really hates it and is going to take the train instead! So my question is, can I alter the clutch to have a lower biting point on the Zed? (Might even prefer it myself to be honest) Then she would drive it more. Or would it just be a case of replacing it and seeing where the bite ends up? Cheers peeps No comments like "Why do you want her to drive it more?" please. I love her and she deserves to drive it as much as I do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimjim Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 Just found this... My clutch pedal sat high with loads of slack that made smooth gear changes hard. You'll need to move the ECU out of the way but even using a mirror it was a fiddle to lower the pedal without applying any pressure to the rod. Well worth the effort though. This is a picture of a what's hidden under the dash. The bolt in the top left adjusts the height. Can anyone tell me if this would help me... and how hard it is to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planetsurfer2 Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 viewtopic.php?f=35&t=52268 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimjim Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 Cheers Planet... I think that is adjusting the peddle, rather than the bite itself. but it might be worth a crack. Anyone know if I can adjust the bite itself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 I would also like to know this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimjim Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 I would also like to know this. Mega... did you never get the guide on the other thread to work? Need to buy some more-grips for the turning the rod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 I need to buy some better pliers I think. I just couldn't do it with the ones I had, the teeth wouldn't grip the spindle sufficiently. I'm sure it'd go though. It's awkward as HELL to get down there and kills your back but with that guide it's not at all difficult to see what you need to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimjim Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 Im gonna have a go at the weekend. My money says a pair of mole-grips will be the way to do it. Will report back when I am done. STILL want to know if it is "properly" adjust able though. AS this method seems to just move the position of the clutch itself, rather than the position of the bite on the clutch itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 Im gonna have a go at the weekend.My money says a pair of mole-grips will be the way to do it. Will report back when I am done. STILL want to know if it is "properly" adjust able though. AS this method seems to just move the position of the clutch itself, rather than the position of the bite on the clutch itself. My bite is about an inch from the top of the clutch and frankly I know that means I've got a few months left in it at most. Just one of those things.. If there's a manual adjustment I can do it might eek some more life out though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 The height the clutch bies at is not adjustabe , as the clutch wears out, the pivot point changes so making the dis-engagement pointer higher in the pedal travel; Adjusting the pedal height makes no difference to engagement point; if you adjust it the wrong way you can actually make more problem's that just a high pedal. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyboy Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 I did this last week and it alters the position of the pedal at the bite point as well as dropping the pedal lower down at rest when fully released. Before, to release the clutch I had to take my heel off the floor which wasent the smoothest release method as my knee hit the steering wheel!. Now the clutch engages with the pedal much lower down in its travel so I can release it with an ankle movement with my heel on the floor. Slimjim you wont get mole grips in there!! its too tight to get anything other than long nose pliers in. I tried. I couldent get enough leverage on the pliers myseklf if I was down in the footwell upside down so I stuck the missus down there guiding the pliers into the correct position which I then applied pressure and turned from outside the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 your only masking the fact that your clutch is wearing out , if you then refit a new clutch your have to reset the pedal postion again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyboy Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 Suspected this was the case but its made it drivable again until it goes completely. I will get a new on order to be ready. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 Mark I PMed you about getting Abbey to fit a new clutch chap. Can you drop me a reply when you get a chance. Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimjim Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 your only masking the fact that your clutch is wearing out , if you then refit a new clutch your have to reset the pedal postion again. I see what you are saying... but till I DO get a new clutch... this will help me sort term. Done the usual clutch slipping tests and they it seems fine. Will try to alter it and wait till it starts slipping before I get it checked in for a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimjim Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 I couldent get enough leverage on the pliers myseklf if I was down in the footwell upside down so I stuck the missus down there guiding the pliers into the correct position which I then applied pressure and turned from outside the car. HA HA ... that sounds like a plan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 I shifted my bite point to lower down in the peddle travel/movement, by adjusting the master cylinder rod, good enough for me, i also tried the removal of the assist spring, but although it does make the engagement feel more natural, it does make the clutch operation much harder, so i may well replace it, as it considerably harder than some uprated clutch/spring set ups i have had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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