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To code or not to code..


Ruddles

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I know it's down to personal preference, but I'm going to ask the question anyway. I'm going to be buying a front lip for my Azure and am wondering wether to colour-code it or leave it black. I don't have anything else black on the car and I have silver wheels, currently my mind's stuck on code it! Just wondering what other people would do in my position? :snack:

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I think I'll get photoshop on the go... :blush:

 

Blacky you're car looks awesome, you have black wheels which enables you to get away with a black lip, nothing on my car is black, the wheels will be silver :D I may go down the route in future, but not yet! :thumbs:

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I think I'll get photoshop on the go... :blush:

 

Blacky you're car looks awesome, you have black wheels which enables you to get away with a black lip, nothing on my car is black, the wheels will be silver :D I may go down the route in future, but not yet! :thumbs:

 

Thanks, it was silver before and had deep dish wheels and my v2 lip was black looked good imo :D

 

Bit like shire's post-180-135011909337_thumb.jpg

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Iv never liked black lips on any colour but black. But that's just me. I went for satin black centre with colour coded corners, never

 

Ignore him, nowt wrong with a black lip B)

 

leftside_Edited.jpg

That works well cos if the other black accents on the car. Doesn't look right on the azure tho. Just my opinion like I said :lol:

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If there are other carbon parts on the vehicle, perhaps a chargespeed skirt setup then maybe cf would look good, but as the car is literally blue and silver I think it would be best to stick to colour coded.

 

Irfan and Chris- Think I'll photoshop it to see what it comes out like. I've rear nismo spats colour coded so I think it will suit well! :)

 

Blacky- I think you took the best route dude, saw your car at Japfest Castle Coombe, really smart in the flesh! :thumbs:

 

Colin- Thanks for the pic of Yokomo's car, initially I was after the VS lip, but thoughts have recently changed (seems to be the case with car styling :blush: ) . Thinking of an 06 bonnet and front bumper r/s and blended without lines and into the lip at some point too.

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Lol why not but then again just helping out. Had to do a lot of research before deciding on the lip and funny enough the wheels. The wheels in the first pic are what I'm saving for @ $2,800 for the 4 not including customs :bang:

 

The wheel nuts are Rays duraluminum! Saved 1kg of weight putting those bad boys on!

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I know, cheers dude! All help is greatly welcomed here. Wheels are hellish expense!.. I'm saving for wheel payment once they get here, tax in Aug, Insurance in Nov and then onto holidays next year, don't think I'll be doing much driving at this rate! :lol:

 

Wheels looks awesome, they're Weds right?

 

I thought aluminium raised questions of the durability and overall effect of forces on the nut? Although much lighter, they're soft? Steel is the best isn't it? :surrender:

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Correct SA-67r BLC (Black Chrome)

 

Well they are actually duraluminum which I would have thought was a mix of aluminium and some dura :lol: whatever "dura"luminam is. Not had a problem with them becoming loose or breaking. There seems to be a low opinion of them yet I've driven the car hard on them with no problems at all. Sure steel is more trustworthy but I don't track the car which is where I beleive the concern is.

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Wiki says:

 

 

Duralumin (also called duraluminum, duraluminium or dural) is the trade name of one of the earliest types of age-hardenable aluminium alloys. The main alloying constituents are copper, manganese, and magnesium. A commonly used modern equivalent of this alloy type is AA2024, which contains 4.4% copper, 1.5% magnesium, 0.6% manganese and 93.5% aluminium by weight. Typical yield strength is 450 MPa (65 ksi), with variations depending on the composition and temper.[1]

 

Duralumin was developed by the German metallurgist Alfred Wilm at Dürener Metallwerke Aktien Gesellschaft. In 1903, Wilm discovered that after quenching, an aluminium alloy containing 4% copper would slowly harden when left at room temperature for several days. Further improvements led to the introduction of duralumin in 1909.[2] The name is obsolete today, and mainly used in popular science to describe the Al-Cu alloy system, or 2000 series as designated by the International Alloy Designation System (IADS) originally created in 1970 by the Aluminum Association.

 

 

Its first use was rigid airship frames. Its composition and heat treatment were a wartime secret. With this new rip-resistant mixture, duralumin quickly spread throughout the aircraft industry in the early 1930s, where it was well suited to the new monocoque construction techniques that were being introduced at the same time. Duralumin also is popular for use in precision tools such as levels because of its light weight and strength.

 

Yes, I got bored :blush::lol:

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Well that's definitely an interesting read regarding the wheel nuts, seem to be fine for road usage then. Thanks for the Wiki! :thumbs:

 

Ian- I went on what I've read, If yours seem fine and that's at hard driving then I guess tests speak for themselves! :teeth:

 

Buster- Thanks for the pic, I'm fairly settled on colour coded now! :thumbs:

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