Jump to content

Is the K&N typhoon induction kit any good?


SteveRS

Recommended Posts

 

 

 

Would there still be a power loss if you had a air intake duct fitted on the front bumper?

 

short answer, yes

 

 

 

Really? Why is that or is it been too long a day to explain?

 

your bonnet is an enclosed area, almost like a sealed box, there is no where for the heat to go. so at speeds below say 40 mph there just isn't enough going in to do anything, at high speeds of about 70mph, then yes it will have an effect, but you'll still have heat soak.

 

think of the heat coming from a tumble drier vent sealed in a large box, and then you blowing through a small hole. if the heat was leaving/cooling then yes the vent helps, but the issue is the engine is continuously heating the area. and in hot weather like this it make sit even worse.

 

worst case scenario is you'll see the engine bog down in slow traffic. basically the engine sucks in a load of hot air and the engine stutters for a second.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

 

Would there still be a power loss if you had a air intake duct fitted on the front bumper?

 

short answer, yes

 

 

 

Really? Why is that or is it been too long a day to explain?

 

your bonnet is an enclosed area, almost like a sealed box, there is no where for the heat to go. so at speeds below say 40 mph there just isn't enough going in to do anything, at high speeds of about 70mph, then yes it will have an effect, but you'll still have heat soak.

 

think of the heat coming from a tumble drier vent sealed in a large box, and then you blowing through a small hole. if the heat was leaving/cooling then yes the vent helps, but the issue is the engine is continuously heating the area. and in hot weather like this it make sit even worse.

 

worst case scenario is you'll see the engine bog down in slow traffic. basically the engine sucks in a load of hot air and the engine stutters for a second.

 

 

 

Thanks RTBISCUIT that's a very good way of explaining it. Should speak to you more about my problem solving! :thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Got this question sent to me.

 

Dyno tested countless 350z's with regard to many components.

 

JWT - Virtually no gains and lousy air filter

Typhoon - Max was +4 HP and it was only at peak, down on torque - lousy air filters and oil is a mess

Injen - Less power

Stillen - +2 HP

AEM - Same as KN

R2C - 2 systems here. Square plastic tube same as KN. A/F is not ideal for basically stock Z's. Maybe good on a highly modified Z due to internal volume. R2C round aluminum system is best and torque was up 11 over KN. Gains were apparent at 3500 and up. Best filter and no oiling.

AFE - Forget about it

 

For what it's worth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the Typhoon (sounded lovely) and have to agree with RT ref heat soak, in the end I cut the typhoon pipe to fit the standard air box, fitted the velocity stack upgrade and retained the K & N scoop and lower pipe. I have a Scanguage fitted and there has been a considerable drop in air intake temperature since, performance gains have been noticeable too.

 

 

 

i had the JWT and then the typhoon, and then i modded the typhoon.

 

in short:

 

JWT = more noise - down side lots of heat soak, loss of bhp

 

Typhoon = slightly less noise than the jwt, but marginal, without a dyno its difficult to say, but i reckon i suffered less heat soak with the k&n felt like stock air box fitted really.

 

modded typhoon = i fitted mine with an apexi cone filter as it gives the best gains but the most engine protection when it comes to filtration. also its a dry filter.

 

more noise, felt bit more responsive. but this is all butt dyno, so not official.

 

at the end of the day, your fishing around for the difference of 3-5 bhp, which makes sweet f all to the drive of the car.

 

if you want more noise get something like the JWT, or do a modded typhoon.

 

if you want bhp bragging numbers for the pub, get an 06 air box, or an airbox conversion kit, and drop a good panel filter in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't sing the praises of the '06 factory air box or any others for that matter. It's 11"+ of restriction on the flow bench manometer at full throttle demand. The good CAI's cut that down by almost 50%.

 

We applied 250 degree heaters below the tubes while dyno testing with our normal 28,000 CFM fans. This ideally simulates what occurs during high performance driving. If a dyno shop uses a small blower while testing your car, consider it not credible in terms of actual performance gains. If you close the hood and test without a fan of this capability, open the hood. The results are more accurate.

 

Getting back to the heat soak dilemma, the velocity of the intake charge at full throttle demand realized almost no increase with the heaters applied to single and dual intake aluminum tubes. It's not worth the discussion about heat soak. It's a non-factor during high performance operation.

 

Apexi is junk. A good intake makes much more than 5 on a 350z. The bad ones make much less. A panel filter makes zero in repeated tests. It drops the restriction on the flow bench by 3 tenths and it's much worse wwith regard to stopping dirt.

 

Air filters with internal cone designs or those that sacrifice internal space make less power as a rule. The open end cap does not work well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't sing the praises of the '06 factory air box or any others for that matter. It's 11"+ of restriction on the flow bench manometer at full throttle demand. The good CAI's cut that down by almost 50%.

 

We applied 250 degree heaters below the tubes while dyno testing with our normal 28,000 CFM fans. This ideally simulates what occurs during high performance driving. If a dyno shop uses a small blower while testing your car, consider it not credible in terms of actual performance gains. If you close the hood and test without a fan of this capability, open the hood. The results are more accurate.

 

Getting back to the heat soak dilemma, the velocity of the intake charge at full throttle demand realized almost no increase with the heaters applied to single and dual intake aluminum tubes. It's not worth the discussion about heat soak. It's a non-factor during high performance operation.

 

Apexi is junk. A good intake makes much more than 5 on a 350z. The bad ones make much less. A panel filter makes zero in repeated tests. It drops the restriction on the flow bench by 3 tenths and it's much worse wwith regard to stopping dirt.

 

Air filters with internal cone designs or those that sacrifice internal space make less power as a rule. The open end cap does not work well.

 

 

Your mentioned the R2C CAI, why is this one better than other CAI, is it just the material they are made from? Do you work for a tuning company?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't sing the praises of the '06 factory air box or any others for that matter. It's 11"+ of restriction on the flow bench manometer at full throttle demand. The good CAI's cut that down by almost 50%.

 

We applied 250 degree heaters below the tubes while dyno testing with our normal 28,000 CFM fans. This ideally simulates what occurs during high performance driving. If a dyno shop uses a small blower while testing your car, consider it not credible in terms of actual performance gains. If you close the hood and test without a fan of this capability, open the hood. The results are more accurate.

 

Getting back to the heat soak dilemma, the velocity of the intake charge at full throttle demand realized almost no increase with the heaters applied to single and dual intake aluminum tubes. It's not worth the discussion about heat soak. It's a non-factor during high performance operation.

 

Apexi is junk. A good intake makes much more than 5 on a 350z. The bad ones make much less. A panel filter makes zero in repeated tests. It drops the restriction on the flow bench by 3 tenths and it's much worse wwith regard to stopping dirt.

 

Air filters with internal cone designs or those that sacrifice internal space make less power as a rule. The open end cap does not work well.

 

 

I'm sorry and you are?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't sing the praises of the '06 factory air box or any others for that matter. It's 11"+ of restriction on the flow bench manometer at full throttle demand. The good CAI's cut that down by almost 50%.

 

We applied 250 degree heaters below the tubes while dyno testing with our normal 28,000 CFM fans. This ideally simulates what occurs during high performance driving. If a dyno shop uses a small blower while testing your car, consider it not credible in terms of actual performance gains. If you close the hood and test without a fan of this capability, open the hood. The results are more accurate.

 

Getting back to the heat soak dilemma, the velocity of the intake charge at full throttle demand realized almost no increase with the heaters applied to single and dual intake aluminum tubes. It's not worth the discussion about heat soak. It's a non-factor during high performance operation.

 

Apexi is junk. A good intake makes much more than 5 on a 350z. The bad ones make much less. A panel filter makes zero in repeated tests. It drops the restriction on the flow bench by 3 tenths and it's much worse wwith regard to stopping dirt.

 

Air filters with internal cone designs or those that sacrifice internal space make less power as a rule. The open end cap does not work well.

Hope you brought your fireproof suit! :dots:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...