How To - Adjust Clutch Pedal

[Firkindolloper]

I think you may have overdone it too - I did that at first as you dont realise how much you are adjusting with each turn. It does make your cheeks clench when it sticks and you are in fast traffic having just changed up! May I suggest that you wind it out again until you just touch the sensor and test again. It is trial and error as you have to be comfortable with it. I have gone back to the thud of the return spring but at least I am not chuffing up my clutch or overdrive.

 

Good luck mate............

[Tricky-Ricky]

^{Thought I had replied to this?.......maybe there is another thread?}

[glrnet]

^{Thought I had replied to this?.......maybe there is another thread?}

Yes indeed, here http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/95373-adjusting-clutch-pedal/

[dann2010]

I cant for the life of me get my big hands in there or my 6'4 body lol when i do, the nut is in mid turn so havent got enough room to lock on to it?

 

Anyone in north yorkshire able to help for some pennies.

 

Thanks

 

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

 

 

[Juggalo]

Great guide, my clutch is so high I use my hand.

Cheers!

[Alex350z]

Just done this. What a difference it makes! I probably have my clutch inline with my brake pedal now. If anyone is struggling to find something to use as a spacer, i cut up an old card (could use old bank card) and stuck it together. Can get the exact size you need then.

Great guide, thanks.

[Juggalo]

If anyone is still having trouble with their clutch bite point/feel, you might want to try this.

 

This is a little mod I did on my Skyline 350GT, which is essentially the same as the Z apart from the body, it helped with clutch control and feel immensely, it may help if your mechanically inclined.

 

Disclaimer: if you decide to go ahead with this, ITS AT YOUR OWN RISK! if you don't feel competent then don't bother.

 

I have felt for a long time that my clutch is rather heavy and too quick, as in short engagement window, and lack of feel, which spoils the driving experience, now i have already removed the clutch pedal assist spring, which did nothing but make it even heavier.

So with this in mind i went hunting on the US forums and came across a thread that a guy with some engineering experience came up with an idea of how to combat this, but basically altering the leverage/fulcrum point of the pedal, his opinion was as mine is, that the master/slave cylinder combo was mismatched, and didn't work well.

Anyway his idea was to fabricate a rather over elaborate method of shifting the fulcrum point further up, and so reducing the effort needed along with increasing the engagement window, which make clutch control a lot easier.

Now at first i thought i would be lazy and see if i could order one of his kits, but he only makes them for LHD cars, so i decided to bite the bullet and pull out my entire clutch pedal and see if i could make a much simpler modification and achieve the same result, and the answer was yes i could with nowhere near the effort that he had gone to.

So its just a case of removing the pedal and disassembling, then marking and drilling a hole of the same diameter about 15-20mm higher up from the original clevis pin pivot hole, i actually just used the clevis and held the bottom edge of it flush with the old hole and using the original to make a mark, i then drilled this to the correct dia, so i could refit the plastic/nylon liner back in, thats it for that bit, you could probably put it all back together and live with the slight master cylinder rod misalignment, as it allows for a small amount.

However i decided that i dint want to live with it, and so i just fabricated a small metal plate drilled with two clearance holes to fit the same size as the master cylinder rod, the holes in my case where drilled again at about 15mm centers, so i have enough clearance for the two adjusting nuts, the pics will explain it better,but you get the gist i hope.

 

Just to avoid confusion, the lower bolt/nut are where the original master cylinder rod with the two lock nuts would go when its fitted, the bolt was just there to check alignment etc.

 

And the result! well i wouldn't go so far as to say that it halves the pedal effort, but i would say it now requires about 35% less effort to depress the pedal, and the other result is to give a much wider engagement/disengagement window, which results in about 60% more feel, so well worth the trouble IMO.

Obviously you will need a little mechanical know how for this, but its not rocket science, but i guess you will have to make up your own mind as to whether you fell confident enough to tackle this.

 

 

 

 

 

Why not go one higher, maybe fit a longer clevis?

Edited July 9, 2015 by Juggalo

[Corrado]

Just found this thread from 2011, and was looking to do this adjustment. I’ve run a ‘53 DE for a lot of years and now have a ‘58 HR with just 14,000 miles on it. It’s never had any adjustment work done on the clutch system so gives a good reference for factory set measurements. 

 

I found this Clutch Adjustment Specification guide showing the factory pedal height recommended range (171 -190mm).

 

My pedal top currently measures 171mm (with no mat and pushing carpet flat to floor). 

 

Adjusting the pedal position down would therefore take it below the 171mm range minimum, and the caution note at the top of the guide about clutch slip as fluid heats up concerned me! 

 

This YouTube video was also pretty helpful at demonstrating how pedal travel was affecting slave Cylinder range (on a GT 86, not 350Z). 

 

Has any one got any long-term feedback on running the clutch pedal lower i.e. level with the brake pedal or lower? Any issues of clutch burn out or other problems described in the adjustment specification sheet? 

 

While I’ve never liked the high bite point on the clutch pedal on either of my Z’s, I don’t want to fry a low miles clutch! 

 

Any feedback on long-term running of this adjustment would be appreciated! 

 

Thanks

 

 

[Mikey_S]

On 30/07/2011 at 09:20, D4XNY said:

Hello all, and thank you for taking time to read this.

 

Since I got my Z 2 yrs ago, I have always loved the car, but one thing has always annoyed me, and that is the high biting point of the car. Makes pulling off very tricky and amateurish, often very bumpy, and not good for my street cred, lol.

 

Shortly after buying the car, I replaced the clutch, which was much better, but still that biting point felt too high, and with a grippier paddle clutch, this made taking off all of a bigger problem. And I love smooth getaways.

 

So after some research, I found out how to adjust my clutch pedal, and oh my god, it makes the Z a whole lot more pleasurable to drive, im not nervous about pulling away at lights anymore, and I can drive the car how I want to again!

 

Always been used to cars with low biting points, so the Z has been hard to get used to, and I still struggled, a high biting point, just isnt my driving style.....

 

So anyway, I fixed it, with a few guides from the net, and thought I would add my own one here.

 

At this point can I point out, that your not adjusting the actual biting point of the clutch, just the position of the clutch pedal. Therefore you wont be "riding" the clutch, nor burning it out. Its simply a mod, to lower the pedal, so the biting point appears to be lower.

 

Before I started, I noticed that my clutch pedal was a good inch higher than the brake pedal, when i finished, it was about 10mm lower than it.

 

Tools I found I needed, were a 12 mm spanner, a work light and some nose pliers

 

 

 

Now this is the tricky bit, accessing the part....

 

You basically have to get on your back and slide in, under the steering wheel, so that your looking up at the pedals, and behind the steering assembly ( Now im 6'2 20 stone, and i managed it) I found that if you push the seat back and as low to the ground as possible, you could perch your bum on the end of the seat, and rest your legs on the shoulders of the drivers seat... lol

 

When you look up, this is what your presented with...

 

 

Now there are 2 sensors on the clutch pedal, when its released (normal position) it touches the sensor that operates the cruise control

NOTE: If you adjust the clutch pedal too low, when the pedal is released, it wont touch this sensor, therefore cruise control will not work, i been told, after a few days the engine check light comes on because of this, so even if you dont use cruise control, please dont upset the car. This sensor can be adjusted with a 12mm bolt, but I found it easier to stick a red 5mm spacer onto the pedal, as you can see. ( YOU Dont have to do this) Only reason I done this, is because I like my biting point low.

 

 

The other sensor activates the engine start, and works when pedal is depressed, so shouldnt interfere with what we are doing.

 

Now the bolt we are aiming for, is a long silver bolt, with a lock nut on it, attaching to a gold U bracket, which attaches to the clutch pedal, it has spines down it, so not hard to spot.

 

 

 

You need to get your 12mm spanner up there, and twist the lock nut loose, I didnt find mine hard at all, but some people wedge a screwdriver into the U bracket, to stop it twisting when you force the lock nut loose.

 

 

Once its loose, get your nose pliers, and adjust the silver bolt to your desire. Most people agree 2 turns is about normal. When I first looked at mine, I had about 2 lines of thread showing through the Gold U Bracket. As you can see now, I have nearly 4 lines of thread.

 

Please note, when turning the main Silver bolt, its very hard, with nose pliers, I was only moving it about 1-2mm at a time cos of the restricted space, just be persistent with it, it will come. Make sure you turn it the right way, the more thread you see in the U Bracket, the shorter the pedal throw will become, and the less thread you see in the U Bracket, the longer the throw of the pedal, please dont unscrew it out though, god forbid I dont know how you will get it back in!!

 

Once adjusted, depress the clutch a few times with your hand, making sure it hits the sensors, before tightening your lock nut back up again. Or do what I do, take it for a spin, see how it feels, make sure your cruise control works, if it dosent feel right, than just readjust.

 

Job Done!

 

Now my clutch pedal sits like this, compared to my brake pedal

 

 

Your pretty much aiming for the pedal to sit level with the brake pedal, mine sits about 10mm lower than it, but thats my personal taste.

 

Summary

1. Tools needed, 12mm spanner, nose plier, work light (WD40)

2. Release Lock nut above Gold U Bracket

3. Turn Silver Spindle bolt to suit (2 turns) and please make sure you dont twist it the wrong way, so it comes out of the U Bracket!!

4. Once adjusted, tighten lock nut back again.

 

5. Repeat procedure until you have desired feel of your clutch pedal.

6. Takes about 20mins, 10mins once you know what your doing.....

 

DISCLAIMER: All mods are taken at your own risk. This is purely a guide. Nor Me or http://www.350z-uk.com take any responsibilty for your own mods, and if your break anything, You do this all at your own risk

Thread Revival.... Just did this and wow, what a difference its made. 

 

Hardest part was getting down there but OPs method worked best. 

 

Out of interest, were there any lo G term effects found by doing tgis as per that last post in this threat about pedal travel etc

 

I have a new clutch and flywheel ready to be fitted when this is all over so I'm not concerned about my current clutch but would be interested to know if anyone had any issues after doing this? 

[Mikey_S]

On 30/07/2011 at 09:20, D4XNY said:

Hello all, and thank you for taking time to read this.

 

Since I got my Z 2 yrs ago, I have always loved the car, but one thing has always annoyed me, and that is the high biting point of the car. Makes pulling off very tricky and amateurish, often very bumpy, and not good for my street cred, lol.

 

Shortly after buying the car, I replaced the clutch, which was much better, but still that biting point felt too high, and with a grippier paddle clutch, this made taking off all of a bigger problem. And I love smooth getaways.

 

So after some research, I found out how to adjust my clutch pedal, and oh my god, it makes the Z a whole lot more pleasurable to drive, im not nervous about pulling away at lights anymore, and I can drive the car how I want to again!

 

Always been used to cars with low biting points, so the Z has been hard to get used to, and I still struggled, a high biting point, just isnt my driving style.....

 

So anyway, I fixed it, with a few guides from the net, and thought I would add my own one here.

 

At this point can I point out, that your not adjusting the actual biting point of the clutch, just the position of the clutch pedal. Therefore you wont be "riding" the clutch, nor burning it out. Its simply a mod, to lower the pedal, so the biting point appears to be lower.

 

Before I started, I noticed that my clutch pedal was a good inch higher than the brake pedal, when i finished, it was about 10mm lower than it.

 

Tools I found I needed, were a 12 mm spanner, a work light and some nose pliers

 

 

 

Now this is the tricky bit, accessing the part....

 

You basically have to get on your back and slide in, under the steering wheel, so that your looking up at the pedals, and behind the steering assembly ( Now im 6'2 20 stone, and i managed it) I found that if you push the seat back and as low to the ground as possible, you could perch your bum on the end of the seat, and rest your legs on the shoulders of the drivers seat... lol

 

When you look up, this is what your presented with...

 

 

Now there are 2 sensors on the clutch pedal, when its released (normal position) it touches the sensor that operates the cruise control

NOTE: If you adjust the clutch pedal too low, when the pedal is released, it wont touch this sensor, therefore cruise control will not work, i been told, after a few days the engine check light comes on because of this, so even if you dont use cruise control, please dont upset the car. This sensor can be adjusted with a 12mm bolt, but I found it easier to stick a red 5mm spacer onto the pedal, as you can see. ( YOU Dont have to do this) Only reason I done this, is because I like my biting point low.

 

 

The other sensor activates the engine start, and works when pedal is depressed, so shouldnt interfere with what we are doing.

 

Now the bolt we are aiming for, is a long silver bolt, with a lock nut on it, attaching to a gold U bracket, which attaches to the clutch pedal, it has spines down it, so not hard to spot.

 

 

 

You need to get your 12mm spanner up there, and twist the lock nut loose, I didnt find mine hard at all, but some people wedge a screwdriver into the U bracket, to stop it twisting when you force the lock nut loose.

 

 

Once its loose, get your nose pliers, and adjust the silver bolt to your desire. Most people agree 2 turns is about normal. When I first looked at mine, I had about 2 lines of thread showing through the Gold U Bracket. As you can see now, I have nearly 4 lines of thread.

 

Please note, when turning the main Silver bolt, its very hard, with nose pliers, I was only moving it about 1-2mm at a time cos of the restricted space, just be persistent with it, it will come. Make sure you turn it the right way, the more thread you see in the U Bracket, the shorter the pedal throw will become, and the less thread you see in the U Bracket, the longer the throw of the pedal, please dont unscrew it out though, god forbid I dont know how you will get it back in!!

 

Once adjusted, depress the clutch a few times with your hand, making sure it hits the sensors, before tightening your lock nut back up again. Or do what I do, take it for a spin, see how it feels, make sure your cruise control works, if it dosent feel right, than just readjust.

 

Job Done!

 

Now my clutch pedal sits like this, compared to my brake pedal

 

 

Your pretty much aiming for the pedal to sit level with the brake pedal, mine sits about 10mm lower than it, but thats my personal taste.

 

Summary

1. Tools needed, 12mm spanner, nose plier, work light (WD40)

2. Release Lock nut above Gold U Bracket

3. Turn Silver Spindle bolt to suit (2 turns) and please make sure you dont twist it the wrong way, so it comes out of the U Bracket!!

4. Once adjusted, tighten lock nut back again.

 

5. Repeat procedure until you have desired feel of your clutch pedal.

6. Takes about 20mins, 10mins once you know what your doing.....

 

DISCLAIMER: All mods are taken at your own risk. This is purely a guide. Nor Me or http://www.350z-uk.com take any responsibilty for your own mods, and if your break anything, You do this all at your own risk

Thread Revival.... Just did this and wow, what a difference its made. 

 

Hardest part was getting down there but OPs method worked best. 

 

Out of interest, were there any lo G term effects found by doing tgis as per that last post in this threat about pedal travel etc

 

I have a new clutch and flywheel ready to be fitted when this is all over so I'm not concerned about my current clutch but would be interested to know if anyone had any issues after doing this? 

[zelda]

I have an RJM pedal instead now, but did this and drove the car probably about 6k miles without problems.

 

 

[Mikey_S]

Only now seeing your reply Zelda, must have missed the notification, will have a look into an RJM pedal.

 

I've had to get back under the clutch pedal this afternoon, i turned the rod so 4 threads where showing, the car felt great to drive for the first week or so but then the pedal stopped returning fully, it wasn't staying engaged however it was starting to annoy me that it wasn't fully returning (only 10-15 times within the last month).

 

I don't know if its just my hyperactive mind but something just didn't feel right. I've now turned it back one rotation so there's 3 threads. Going to see if the same thing happens.

 

A new clutch and flywheel will be fitted when lock down is over anyhow but err-ing on the side of caution for now.