CurtisZ Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 So i have been fine tuning the clutch pedal on my 2005 Z and although i have the bite point set about right for me i am now finding the pedal does not return back up to its rest position. In some respects I do not find this a problem as there is too much travel between the point the clutch starts to disengage and the fully up rest position. As it does not feel like there is much resistance in the first inch of pedal movement would it be ok to move the 'clutch pedal released' push button switch further in and use it as a pedal release stop and reduce the travel or is there another way to change this thanks ps the dipstick is just mental I found this also ... the first 1 inch maybe even more was just 'free-play' on my clutch pedal, felt like I was kneeing myself in the chin before I made both of my adjustments (wife couldn't even drive the car)!!! Adjust the microswitch with a 14mm spaner to loosen the locknut and screw it abit for the desired outcome. This switch also acts as the 'stop' for the clutch pedal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Zoot Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 So i have been fine tuning the clutch pedal on my 2005 Z and although i have the bite point set about right for me i am now finding the pedal does not return back up to its rest position. In some respects I do not find this a problem as there is too much travel between the point the clutch starts to disengage and the fully up rest position. As it does not feel like there is much resistance in the first inch of pedal movement would it be ok to move the 'clutch pedal released' push button switch further in and use it as a pedal release stop and reduce the travel or is there another way to change this thanks ps the dipstick is just mental I found this also ... the first 1 inch maybe even more was just 'free-play' on my clutch pedal, felt like I was kneeing myself in the chin before I made both of my adjustments (wife couldn't even drive the car)!!! Adjust the microswitch with a 14mm spaner to loosen the locknut and screw it abit for the desired outcome. This switch also acts as the 'stop' for the clutch pedal you have to be careful if you are using the micro switch to stop the pedal returning to its full rest position I have read it can cause problems with the slave cylinder if the master cylinder is not allowed to return to its fully rested position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Zoot Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 I have now removed my clutch assist spring which is an easy mod, this has allowed me to drop my pedal even further down (still making sure the clutch fully engages) and the pedal will return to its fully rested position This a lot lower and in a perfect position for me and It also gives you a much better feel for the clutch points the down side is a heavy clutch pedal. I am now thinking of either putting on a lighter spring to lighten the pedal a bit of maybe putting in a small bracket to move the spring slightly maybe giving a different feel. probably will go for a lighter spring first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddog1982 Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Ive done this mod and find my pedal doesnt always return to the correct position, guessing ive gone a little to far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeD Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 Can anyone help with this? Been adjusted and bit point is right at bottom but I'm left with this noise when fully releasing the clutch pedal, sounds like it's knocking on summit? Anyone else got this or any way or fixing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw99 Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 I've got the same issue. Have to put my foot under the clutch peddle and pull it back sometimes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 I have now removed my clutch assist spring which is an easy mod, this has allowed me to drop my pedal even further down (still making sure the clutch fully engages) and the pedal will return to its fully rested position This a lot lower and in a perfect position for me and It also gives you a much better feel for the clutch points the down side is a heavy clutch pedal. I am now thinking of either putting on a lighter spring to lighten the pedal a bit of maybe putting in a small bracket to move the spring slightly maybe giving a different feel. probably will go for a lighter spring first Its not actually the spring that causes the heavy clutch, but the clutch itself, the reason its so heavy is because the pedal fulcrum point is incorrect (see my post about modifying this earlier in this thread) Another reason why people have so much trouble getting the adjustment correct is because they don't realise that the clutch start switch adjustment acts a s the clutch stop, and so influences the clutch pedal adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feepain Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 did this last week and absolutely love the result! thanks for posting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjones350 Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 Carried out this mod today...obviously since you're only altering the pedal position, it doesn't make the clutch less of a hairtrigger on-off switch, but it does feel so much nicer to use...10/10 and thanks to op for a great guide to a must do mod! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leet8845 Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 I just tried to this mod and after a bit of swearing a sore shoulder I'm not able to do it I can't even budge the lock nut. It's too cramped in their for my skinny but lanky frame and my heads to big Is anyone within about 50 miles or so of the West Midlands willing to do this for me? I would drive to your house and pay you well for your time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjones350 Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 Don't try the arse on seat, feet around headrest approach...I found that fkn impossible...just open the door wide n lie over the sill...did u try jamming a screwdriver in the u shaped bracket before loosening the locknut?...that's the easy part-turning the bolt a mm at a time's the real bastard!!!..after that u just drop the ecu to gain access to the cruise switch adjustment...good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leet8845 Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 (edited) Thanks for the tips. It was raining heavy yesterday so I couldn't open the door but I will try that next time. I didn't jam a screwdriver in but I will do that too. I've ordered some much better long nose pliers, the ones I had before were worn non-branded needle pliers so I don't think they would have been up for the job anyway. I also ordered a 12mm stubby spanner to see if I can get a bit more leverage on the lock nut. I'll take my laptop and webcam so I use that to see how far the bolt and nut have moved, rather than trying to squeeze my big head all the way in I'll try my best Edited October 7, 2014 by leet8845 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leet8845 Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 That was much easier with the right tools. I still found the lock nut quite hard to budge but with my stubby spanner I was able to get plenty of torque and get it in one. I found the sliver spindle thing easy to move. You can only move it a bit a time but mine moved without much effort compared to locking nut. I used vise-grip pliers, sure they helped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leet8845 Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Oh, and it's much nicer to drive! Thanks for this DIY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leet8845 Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 My only gripe with it now is that the clutch flicks a bit when it reaches the top when I pull off and makes a bit of thud. When I move it by hand I can see it's happening when the spring stops contracting and then starts to pivot at it's base, then the clutch hits the stop which makes the thud sound I hear. Can I remove the spring? If so, is there a DIY? I can't see how to remove the bolts that hold it in. If I can't remove the spring, should I adjust the pedal up or down further? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leet8845 Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 So I moved the pedal down further, adjusted the sensor all the way out and even had to stick a piece of rubber on still to activate the cruise control. The pedal is now much lower than the brake, probably level with the accelerator. It doesn't come out far enough for the spring to reach it's pivot point to I no longer have the 'thud' issue. It's almost perfect but I have jolted a couple of times changing into 2nd and I have to put my foot more firmly on the pedal else it sometimes wont go into gear. Other than that it's great, quick shifting is really smooth and fast at speed and high revs. Just need to see if I can get used to bringing my foot up really slow when in the lower gear changes to stop it jolting. I can always adjust the pedal a bit higher. I'll see how I get on but loving the change regardless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leet8845 Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Ok,I adjusted again. 3 threads showing now instead of 4 and I removed the rubber piece but left the sensor adjusted all the way out. It's perfect now, I can finally drive the Z without thinking about bringing the clutch up slowly and having the right revs to ensure smooth driving. I can just drive normally and it's smooth 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Ok,I adjusted again. 3 threads showing now instead of 4 and I removed the rubber piece but left the sensor adjusted all the way out. It's perfect now, I can finally drive the Z without thinking about bringing the clutch up slowly and having the right revs to ensure smooth driving. I can just drive normally and it's smooth it's not an easy job and a small adjustment makes a big difference to the feel 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leet8845 Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 (edited) Yeah, it feels like a different clutch just by moving 1 thread in or out on the bolt. Edited October 15, 2014 by leet8845 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firkindolloper Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Not long had my 2nd Zed which has the high biting point too. I do like the sound of this mod and will try it shortly. I get the thud on clutch return. Does anyone know if this is normal and how would I adios it? Getting paranoid about the sounds? What was that noise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leet8845 Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 The trouble is, when you reduce the biting point it makes the thud worse. I never had it until i lowered the pedal then it started. I raised the pedal more until it stopped. The more you raise the pedal, the more force it has to push back out to original position. When you reduce you force by lowering the pedal, the thud can start, at least that's how it did for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firkindolloper Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Ta. Sounds like I am stuck with one of them then. Got to try the mod and then see how the thud goes. If it doesnt affect anythingI will live with it and turn up the radio. When that works......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Are you both still running the assist spring unit? lowering the pedal via the adjuster will not increase the force needed when the assist spring is not used. The whole heavy clutch problem is down to the pedal fulcrum point being wrong, see earlier in the thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HassanZ Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 I've got a problem with my pedal after doing the adjustment I will explain tomorrow, just heading to bed now. Haven't slept since yesterday! Thanks OP for your helpful post!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HassanZ Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 I carried out the clutch pedal adjustment yesterday but I think I've overdone it! Now the clutch engages/bite point engages almost instantly from removing the pedal off the floor (which I like) but I am scared that the clutch may still be engaged even when depressed and therefore riding the clutch due it not completely releasing. However upon test driving the Zed, it didn't seem as though the clutch was riding when changing gears. There is now very little travel between the clutch pedal being depressed and being released. As soon as the bite point has engaged, the pedal has already reached the fully released position which makes me think the clutch is still engaged when I've taken my foot off the clutch. Another issue I've experienced is the fact that the pedal keeps sticking and requires manually pulling back up again to return back to fully released position. Upon test driving, this didn't seem to be an issue as it's sticking past the full clutch release point, but I may be incorrect. Do you have any ideas of what I could use as a spacer to plug the gap between the cruise control sensor and the bolt? Do you think a block of rubber (pencil rubber) and super glue will be sufficient over the long term? This DIY was the most painful and frustrating I have experienced on a car by far! Haha! Photos of the current pedal adjustment and the resulting cruise control sensor gap are below: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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