cs2000 Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 seriously, how the hell are people doing this? lol. Ive bene trying this mod for months (see previous posts) and never once managed to do it! I can get the bolt loose but not turn the fork shaped thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddog1982 Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Use a pair of long nose pliers pal, its slow going though. Ive ended up with just over 5 threads inside the U bracket, started with 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 (edited) If anyone is still having trouble with their clutch bite point/feel, you might want to try this. This is a little mod I did on my Skyline 350GT, which is essentially the same as the Z apart from the body, it helped with clutch control and feel immensely, it may help if you're mechanically inclined. Disclaimer: if you decide to go ahead with this, ITS AT YOUR OWN RISK! if you don't feel competent then don't bother. I have felt for a long time that my clutch is rather heavy and too quick, as in short engagement window, and lack of feel, which spoils the driving experience, now I have already removed the clutch pedal assist spring, which did nothing but make it even heavier. So with this in mind i went hunting on the US forums and came across a thread that a guy with some engineering experience came up with an idea of how to combat this, but basically altering the leverage/fulcrum point of the pedal, his opinion was as mine is, that the master/slave cylinder combo was mismatched, and didn't work well. Anyway, his idea was to fabricate a rather over-elaborate method of shifting the fulcrum point further up, and so reducing the effort needed along with increasing the engagement window, which makes clutch control a lot easier. Now at first I thought I would be lazy and see if I could order one of his kits, but he only makes them for LHD cars, so I decided to bite the bullet and pull out my entire clutch pedal and see if I could make a much simpler modification and achieve the same result, and the answer was yes I could with nowhere near the effort that he had gone to. So its just a case of removing the pedal and disassembling, then marking and drilling a hole of the same diameter about 15-20mm higher up from the original clevis pin pivot hole, I actually just used the clevis and held the bottom edge of it flush with the old hole and using the original to make a mark, I then drilled this to the correct dia, so I could refit the plastic/nylon liner back in, thats it for that bit, you could probably put it all back together and live with the slight master cylinder rod misalignment, as it allows for a small amount. However I decided that I dint want to live with it, and so I just fabricated a small metal plate drilled with two clearance holes to fit the same size as the master cylinder rod, the holes in my case where drilled again at about 15mm centers, so I have enough clearance for the two adjusting nuts, the pics will explain it better, but you get the gist I hope. Just to avoid confusion, the lower bolt/nut are where the original master cylinder rod with the two lock nuts would go when it's fitted, the bolt was just there to check alignment etc. And the result! well i wouldn't go so far as to say that it halves the pedal effort, but I would say it now requires about 35% less effort to depress the pedal, and the other result is to give a much wider engagement/disengagement window, which results in about 60% more feel, so well worth the trouble IMO. Obviously, you will need a little mechanical know-how for this, but it's not rocket science, but I guess you will have to make up your own mind as to whether you feel confident enough to tackle this. Edited February 14, 2018 by Tricky-Ricky 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 On 18/11/2013 at 13:58, Tricky-Ricky said: If anyone is still having trouble with their clutch bite point/feel, you might want to try this. This is a little mod I did on my Skyline 350GT, which is essentially the same as the Z apart from the body, it helped with clutch control and feel immensely, it may help if your mechanically inclined. Disclaimer: if you decide to go ahead with this, ITS AT YOUR OWN RISK! if you don't feel competent then don't bother. I have felt for a long time that my clutch is rather heavy and too quick, as in short engagement window, and lack of feel, which spoils the driving experience, now i have already removed the clutch pedal assist spring, which did nothing but make it even heavier. So with this in mind i went hunting on the US forums and came across a thread that a guy with some engineering experience came up with an idea of how to combat this, but basically altering the leverage/fulcrum point of the pedal, his opinion was as mine is, that the master/slave cylinder combo was mismatched, and didn't work well. Anyway his idea was to fabricate a rather over elaborate method of shifting the fulcrum point further up, and so reducing the effort needed along with increasing the engagement window, which make clutch control a lot easier. Now at first i thought i would be lazy and see if i could order one of his kits, but he only makes them for LHD cars, so i decided to bite the bullet and pull out my entire clutch pedal and see if i could make a much simpler modification and achieve the same result, and the answer was yes i could with nowhere near the effort that he had gone to. So its just a case of removing the pedal and disassembling, then marking and drilling a hole of the same diameter about 15-20mm higher up from the original clevis pin pivot hole, i actually just used the clevis and held the bottom edge of it flush with the old hole and using the original to make a mark, i then drilled this to the correct dia, so i could refit the plastic/nylon liner back in, thats it for that bit, you could probably put it all back together and live with the slight master cylinder rod misalignment, as it allows for a small amount. However i decided that i dint want to live with it, and so i just fabricated a small metal plate drilled with two clearance holes to fit the same size as the master cylinder rod, the holes in my case where drilled again at about 15mm centers, so i have enough clearance for the two adjusting nuts, the pics will explain it better,but you get the gist i hope. Just to avoid confusion, the lower bolt/nut are where the original master cylinder rod with the two lock nuts would go when its fitted, the bolt was just there to check alignment etc. And the result! well i wouldn't go so far as to say that it halves the pedal effort, but i would say it now requires about 35% less effort to depress the pedal, and the other result is to give a much wider engagement/disengagement window, which results in about 60% more feel, so well worth the trouble IMO. Obviously you will need a little mechanical know how for this, but its not rocket science, but i guess you will have to make up your own mind as to whether you fell confident enough to tackle this. Nice.. I didnt know it was an issue i just thought my leg was weak haha.. thanks will look into it im 350gt owner too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucutus Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 (edited) Hi, sorry to reopen this thread: New here , first post - Just got my hands on a wonderful Zed, 2002 low miles. However I have the opposite problem, my biting point for the clutch is very low. Its about 2 inches off the floor with the pedal when the clutch bites, and unless i have the pedal hard to the floor gear changes and unpleasant. At first I thought the clutch might need replacing, but after reading here I am under the impression the biting point is very high when a new clutch is needed. So the question is : Is there a way to raise the biting point another inch on the pedal? total Zed noob, so sorry for the question. Edited February 17, 2014 by Lucutus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 If you read the very first post in this thread this explains how to adjust the bite point of the clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollyranchers Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 The problem I found with this mod is on occasion the pedal doesn't always flick back up, it seems a fine line when adjusting if you go to far the pedal doesn't always spring back Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 The problem I found with this mod is on occasion the pedal doesn't always flick back up, it seems a fine line when adjusting if you go to far the pedal doesn't always spring back Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk If the pedal doesn't flick back it means you've gone too low. Back in the nut one thread at a time and drive the car to appreciate the change. It can be deceptive just static testing the clutch. I had a different problem with unpleasant gear changes after fitting a HD aftermarket clutch and SMF and found out lift the cluch pedal up got rid of the issue. I have only 1 thread showing and might even take it down fllush to get rid of a very tiny crunch I sometimes get on aggressive down shifts. Recap: more thread out = pedal up, firmer pedal and wider clutch engagement range More thread in = pedal down, softer pedal and smaller engagement range. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 The other thing that has a profound effect on clutch feel is the clutch assist spring arrangement, I junked mine at an early stage, didn't really notice any great difference in the effort needed, this is one of the reasons for the odd feel if you over adjust the clutch disengagement point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_doc Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 Carried out the original mod in this guide on my 350z earlier and the car is soo much better to drive now. Cheers for the guide! Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gort Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 gonna get the garage to take a look at this guide, as they fitted a new clutch last week and the clutch pedal is a lot higher than it was with old clutch, also noticed, now the biting point is very low (2 inch off the floor) with the new clutch, is this normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gort Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 if you lower it too far the clevis pin binds on the pedal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Almeida1234 Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Very good guide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 gonna get the garage to take a look at this guide, as they fitted a new clutch last week and the clutch pedal is a lot higher than it was with old clutch, also noticed, now the biting point is very low (2 inch off the floor) with the new clutch, is this normal? If the clutch pedal has previously adjusted due to being worn, when fitting a new clutch plate its possible that the adjustment has caused the master cylinder to not return back far enough to uncover the fluid transfer port, so there is no fluid, or very little being drawn into the MC so its not moving enough fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Great little mod - cheers for that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Ahh it appears I have over adjusted mine.. I have nearly 7threads pushing through bracket. How many are you guys pushing through? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gort Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 3 or 4 Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisZ Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 Just carried out this adjustment and WOW!!! A+++++ Clutch engages lower down and pedal now sits just below brake pedal... So much better Thanks alot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw99 Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I'm going to test this out tonight, mine just isn't right. Could be the spring that's worn out? sent from mobile. could be typo's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samsniss350z Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 The two bugbears of the 350Z for me are trying to replace the dipstick and the height of the clutch pedal. This is a great,easy to understand process of how to adjust the clutch pedal and it will be something I'll be attempting to do this weekend. Thanks for a great write up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw99 Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 The dipstick can be a pain. sent from mobile. could be typo's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Zoot Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 So i have been fine tuning the clutch pedal on my 2005 Z and although i have the bite point set about right for me i am now finding the pedal does not return back up to its rest position. In some respects I do not find this a problem as there is too much travel between the point the clutch starts to disengage and the fully up rest position. As it does not feel like there is much resistance in the first inch of pedal movement would it be ok to move the 'clutch pedal released' push button switch further in and use it as a pedal release stop and reduce the travel or is there another way to change this thanks ps the dipstick is just mental Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 you would have to be careful with the adjustment of it further in as when I had my car in the air i realised my slave cylinder wasnt fully travelling and caused me all sorts of problems till I figured out the rod behind the clevis was adjusted far too much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Zoot Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 (edited) thanks for that. i will be careful making any adjstments in future but would really like to get my clutch pedal in a nice position. I have read about people removing the assist spring, a lot of people recommend it but dont really say how it changes the feel and if there is any problems with pedal return. anyone done that mod and can describe what it is now like thanks Edited June 16, 2014 by Mr Zoot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisZ Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 It's me again 3 weeks later after this adjustment .... I went a little too far with the treads and clutch pedal would stick a little before returning to rest position... I had simply adjusted too much (about 5 treads) However it only took a small adjustment (1 tread back in) to make the biting point perfect with a clean return back to rest... Also adjusted the microswich in a little bit so as the stop the pedal from coming up to high... I have mine adjusted so it sits just a little below the brake pedal A+++ Mod ... so much more drivable! Unfortunately the wife now loves it ... urghhhh !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.