Jump to content

Newbie looking to learn more about 350Z tuning


Recommended Posts

IMO unless you have a carefully calibrated arse/seat interface, until you go FI or NOS you aren't even going to notice the extra 10-30 BHP you can expect from bolt-on goodies. Save up for super/turbo charger(s) or just enjoy the ride.

Whilst this is true its not all about extra BHP as we know. An UpRev map does wonders for the feel of a 350z in terms of throttle response and gaining a bit more low down torque. So while top end BHP doesnt make any difference really - you do get a good chunk of extra performance you can feel from UpRev and supporting mods :thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as weight saving goes, I'd be interested in a carbon fibre bonnet,

 

I don't think there is much difference weight wise between the standard bonnet and a carbon fibre bonnet, the standard bonnet is surprisingly light.

 

Remember swapping mines up at Alexs and I was bracing myself to take the weight when he was loosing off last bolt and it was light as a feather. Sure he mentioned that he weighed both standard and his carbon fibre bonnet and next to no difference.

 

Carbon Fibre boot lid might be a big saving though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OEM bonnet is Alu IIRC so no weight saving. As you say other panels such as boot lid and door arent so, so you save a lot more. Also Rays wheels are supprisingly light, not many are lighter (for a reasonable price), most people end up swapping them for heavier wheels ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm still interested in turbo-nutter cars, but I think I need something like the Zed, that's a fair bit easier to maintain and still good fun to drive, can be drifted about a little, and has decent pace etc. etc.

 

At what mileage do you need to do a suspension refresh for these, and is it worth moving to coilovers or uprated shocks? Is it worth polybushing the car?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm still interested in turbo-nutter cars, but I think I need something like the Zed, that's a fair bit easier to maintain and still good fun to drive, can be drifted about a little, and has decent pace etc. etc.

 

At what mileage do you need to do a suspension refresh for these, and is it worth moving to coilovers or uprated shocks? Is it worth polybushing the car?

suspension refresh... never heard of it tbh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm still interested in turbo-nutter cars, but I think I need something like the Zed, that's a fair bit easier to maintain and still good fun to drive, can be drifted about a little, and has decent pace etc. etc.

 

At what mileage do you need to do a suspension refresh for these, and is it worth moving to coilovers or uprated shocks? Is it worth polybushing the car?

suspension refresh... never heard of it tbh

 

 

I think he just means replacing worn suspension parts. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm still interested in turbo-nutter cars, but I think I need something like the Zed, that's a fair bit easier to maintain and still good fun to drive, can be drifted about a little, and has decent pace etc. etc.

 

At what mileage do you need to do a suspension refresh for these, and is it worth moving to coilovers or uprated shocks? Is it worth polybushing the car?

suspension refresh... never heard of it tbh

 

 

I think he just means replacing worn suspension parts. ;)

lol ok, i changed my bushes at 4.5yrs old when changing the shockers to kw's. There was a little wear on the bottom bushes but nothing to worry about. The shockers will be fine until the fail tbh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, replacing worn parts is what I meant.

 

I would have expected the suspension to be in need of repalcement about 80k but it seems you're saying that's not the case?

 

So is it worth moving to uprated dampers or coilovers, or does the car handle very well as standard? I'm a big fan of the looks of the car, and think I'd be happy to stay stock on the outside, but spend money on chassis and engine tuning.

 

Do people fit stiffer ARB's or anything along those lines?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Eibach lowering springs make a massive difference but it makes the car quite low. Standard dampers will be fine unless you want to adjust for track use. Eibach antiroll bars are a favourite aswell

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't care about the fuel, my commute is only 6 miles each way :lol:

 

So what are the engine differences between the 276, 296 and 300+?

 

What's required to crack 5 secs 0-60 (as I want the same sort of acceleration as my MR" if possible).

 

As far as weight saving goes, I'd be interested in a carbon fibre bonnet, depending on the car's colour and lightweight alloys. Possibly lightweight seats too, but they'd have to be usable on long journeys, not buckets that ruin your back!

 

 

My 4 mile commute each way averages 18 mpg, but thats with 385 bhp and the cheap RFL option too. :teeth:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...