chocohercules Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Having trouble starting? car was involved in a small front shunt nothing major no airbags deployed or warning lights on dash. Car has ignition but does not crank or fire up? Is there some sort of cut out switch or fail safe device causing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael robinson Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 Dose everything come on but when you turn the key it just clicks and your battery light flickers ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocohercules Posted April 8, 2011 Author Share Posted April 8, 2011 it did do something like that at one point? Other times it just does nothing? Going to garage in the morning to test it again will update you. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael robinson Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 mine is in for this reason if this helps viewtopic.php?f=9&t=47057 they have tested nearly the hole car and think its the ecu so when i get a result from the ecu testers al up date my thread . it could be a few reasons tho 1-key fob 2- battery (zeds are very picky about current ) 3- loose neutral or earth wire 4 - ecu and thats just to start with , the zed has a interlocking safety feature so it could be a range of thing that are linked with that ie clutch pedel switch or relays etc ( main relays and fuses are in next to battery cublical ) hopefully you get your sorted with less hassel than me good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocohercules Posted April 9, 2011 Author Share Posted April 9, 2011 UPDATE! Tried to start the Z again still nothing Ignition, stereo etc all works but when trying to crank it over it just makes a click noise ignition dash lights all go out and nothing!! does this sound familiar? i thought it might be an immobiser or something? must add the battery is weak, but have been trying with a battery booster thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky370z Posted April 9, 2011 Share Posted April 9, 2011 New battery dude. Thats what happens when the battery is low. It seems like it wants to turn over but all of the lights go out and nothing. I think it could be that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JetSet Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 New battery dude. Thats what happens when the battery is low. It seems like it wants to turn over but all of the lights go out and nothing. I think it could be that. +1, that's exactly how mine went, a 3.5 V6 needs a lot of power to turn the engine over. You can often struggle on for months with a smaller engine once the battery deteriorates but I found that once The Zed battery goes then it just won't hold enough charge. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonk Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 I notice from your previous posts wanting various front and rear body parts, this car has been in an accident. Have you actually had this car running before? Other than the battery as stated before, are you doing the obvious and pressing the clutch in?? Also check for damage to the Air Flow meter on the air intake pipe, it won't crank if that is damaged or disconnected. I know it's not much but it's something else to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choptop Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Battery. Mine went the same way. Partco was the cheapest place to get a replacement when I needed one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael robinson Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Is your's got the same as this ? viewtopic.php?f=9&t=47057 I will be getting the results from Nissan this week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fakeindian Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Are you pushing the clutch in Sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocohercules Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 Thanks for all the info lads, i think first thing to do is change the battery and specific voltage required, not clued up on these sort of things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocohercules Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 Hi Guys, does the Z Require a specific watt or size Battery or can i throw anything in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky370z Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 get the details from the battery and buy one like for like. dont get a cheap one tho, as it wont last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael robinson Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 i get result of ecu test tomorro mate so will post the out come for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocohercules Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 Here we go Bought a battery from halfords yesterday, what according to the chart should be perfect for the Z! 510 starting power! Hooked it up to the Z still couldnt turn it over, car cranked over 3 times really slowly in a struggling kind of way then went back to the click noise and no dash lights! Surely a new battery should of turned it over or do you think it was underpowered? Seriously do i need a Nuclear Power plant to start this thing I did look at the Volt meter it was reading 12? needle half way, is this the correct voltage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael robinson Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 That is exactly what's happening to mine mate . It points towards a loose earth or the bendix in the starting motor being broke as the car will start for a limited time if you bump it , or the car will crank if you put a wire from your battery to the casing of the engine but Nissan seam to think it's the ecu . I am getting my results today so will let you no what the crack is mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael robinson Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Just got my results from ecu tester it is the ecu at fault (the feed for the start relay) so will get it back tomorro and will inform Nissan of there findings so they can test the relay and everything associated with that part of the system . The cost of an ecu to be reconditioned is £210 Hope this helps Will update again tomorro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocohercules Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 Cheers Michael! So was it just a case of taking out your ECU telling them the problem and handing it over to the them? Or did they have your car in too? Congrats on the fix mate, you can enjoy the weather before it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael robinson Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Unfortuntley I do not find out till tomorro weather it's fixed or not . I sent the hole car to nissan and they sent the ecu to a independent tester . The results from this independent tester came back today saying that the supply voltage from the ecu start relay connection was faulty so they reconditioned it for £210 . Tomorrow Nissan will receive it back and put it back into the car and see if that's the only fault the car has , so not out the water yet but hopefully it's that and it's just pluged back in and it works if not then it's back to fault finding I hope to god it works as am gutted about missing all the nice weather with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael robinson Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 hello mate how you getting on with yours ? nissan have come back and said the whole problem was caused by my coil packs breaking down causeing a direct short which in turn nacked my ecu etc . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny 350Z Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Right, I think I may have the solution for your dud Roadster....... http://www.webuyanycar.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael robinson Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 Finally got my car back and the results where that 4 of 6 coil pack were nackered causing a direct short which in turn backed my ecu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocohercules Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 Hi Michael, Great news , at least you can get your car back on the road! Was it very costly? Still havent got round to starting mine yet as the mechanic has a few cars in before he starts mine! Hopefully next week sometime? Just been concentrating on getting these damn parts We do have an inkling of whats causing the problem though? During the shunt the Sump took some of the impact and was drained of the oil. Hooked the car to a code reader and Crank/shaft or Hall sensor code showing. Was told this error is showing due to no oil in the car!! so hopefully once the sump is fixed and oil topped up it should fire up again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael robinson Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 I got it droped in at the Nissan main deale for my area so yeah quite dear 6x coil packs =£300 Ecu recon =£210 alternator belt = £24 Labour = £245 so total = £779 the fault was that 4 out of 6 coil packs degraded and cause a high current return to my ecu which knacked that . Just tuck alittle while to find due to ecu being knacked also with me trying to run it it was recommended that I change my cats due to fuel damage but haven't got round to that yet . Have you started to look at your yet ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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