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Vortech- the time is coming!!!


captint

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The time is beginning to arrive when I go Forced induction. I know there are 100's of posts etc, but I won't to establish a couple of things.

 

I am thinking of getting the Vortech SC as it seems to be the easiest and most cost effective way of going FI?

 

I would guess from other posts I am looking at between 380 and 400 bhp, however I want to ensure that I don't have any detenation issues or engine failures when this goes forward, so I want to establish what else I need to do to make this a safe option, without having to do a complete internal re-build.

 

I was thinking:

 

Utec ECU

New Rods

New oil Pan

Non stock clutch and fly wheel

Custom Fuel pump

 

Would this be a good enough set up, Budget is set at £12K, but want to avoid spending as much as possible as I want to get some 19's to improve traction

 

Any help would be appreciated, also any rcommendations over who to do it as I am worried about some of the feedback with regards to the cowboy tuners.

 

Cheers

:thumbs:

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If your doing the internals, you will need more than just the rods themselves.

 

You will need Rods, pistons, uprated headgasket, main stud kit, head stud kit, gasket set. That is the bare minimum for a bottom end build, the very minimum. Factor into that the cost of machining your cylinders for the pistons, cleaning, assembly costs etc etc.

 

You'll be spending more than 12k if you are doing the bottom end as well as the supercharger.

 

You would also need a decent exhaust system, gauges, 1 step colder plugs to support the blower.

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Yes.

 

Also remember that if you lower the compression ratio, you are going to need to run a smaller pulley on the Vortech to compensate for the lower compression ratio, and also you would need a bigger fuel system to cope.

 

I'd run a Vortech (and did run a vortech) with a standard bottom end, no probs at all.

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So I can do the zorst (does it have to be true dual), gauges and 1 steps, but then Also have to do all the internals, as it looks like the internals will cost £10K to do alone

 

It doesnt have to be true dual, no. Alot of people prefer the larger diameter single systems for supercharging (nismo, etc).

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You dont have to, no. With a good tune, you should be fine without.

I'd budget 10k to build an engine properly, yes.

The Vortech puts alot less stress on the motor than a turbo kit.

 

You can import a short block (bottom end) from the states for alot less, but you would have to add a fair bit on core charge, shipping, tax, and then getting it all assembled and rebuilt.

 

It all adds up, believe me. ;)

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Cheers Bap

 

Do you know of anywhere where I could research the short block?

 

Also I know of numerous tuners, I'm guessing the usual suspects being

 

TDI - Hear good things

WRC- Jury seems to be out

ABP- Jury seems to be out

NS Racing- Vortechs UK distributer, but I know nothing about them

 

Any opinions?

 

Also how come there is such a varience in SC power output, I have seen between 380 and 412 bhP?

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How do you mean research?? www.my350z.com is a good point of info.

 

Abbey motorsport have done a decent job for StephenG, and he's happy with them. With them doing an install on the kit previously, that should save you some install time. They have also done the tuning work, so thats in your favour as well.

 

With regard to the power figures, you can only take them with a pinch of salt, dyno's arent that accurate, and it can vary greatly between dyno's and who's doing the dyno pull.

 

I really wouldnt want to spend all that money on internals for that kind of power.

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Yep, they did both of ours. I'd highly recommend them, but if you phone them now expect to be taking the car there about February.

 

Captint - you have to remember that Bap has done pretty much everything FI on his car, and he's gone to the absolute extreme. My list of 'must do's on the Vortech kit is much more basic, especially if you aren't going to be driving everywhere with WOT (I don't)

 

Larger oil pan (I have the JWT spacer)

Colder plugs

Uprated fuel hoses (an absolute must - safety issue)

 

With these optional bits:

Some sort of AFM with wideband gauge (optional)

Clutch (if you're thinking of doing balls-out standing starts)

Uprated fuel pump (between 5000 and 6000 rpm suffers without it)

Dual exhaust and better plenum (the weak links in the breathing of the engine. This will release the remaining horses)

 

And that will do you for simple stuff. Other than that I'd go for an aftermarket ECU if you want to tweak stuff yourself, but the list above is a good starting point.

 

You can PM me if you have any questions.

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No, your hole just gets bigger, as you keep digging!!!

 

BTW Steve, your a f*ckin horse shaggin f*ck pig, and your car is complete horse w*nk on toast...........:p:teeth:

 

What a wank3r you are Baptist!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:);)

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Yep, they did both of ours. I'd highly recommend them, but if you phone them now expect to be taking the car there about February.

 

Captint - you have to remember that Bap has done pretty much everything FI on his car, and he's gone to the absolute extreme. My list of 'must do's on the Vortech kit is much more basic, especially if you aren't going to be driving everywhere with WOT (I don't)

 

Larger oil pan (I have the JWT spacer)

Colder plugs

Uprated fuel hoses (an absolute must - safety issue)

 

With these optional bits:

Some sort of AFM with wideband gauge (optional)

Clutch (if you're thinking of doing balls-out standing starts)

Uprated fuel pump (between 5000 and 6000 rpm suffers without it)

Dual exhaust and better plenum (the weak links in the breathing of the engine. This will release the remaining horses)

 

And that will do you for simple stuff. Other than that I'd go for an aftermarket ECU if you want to tweak stuff yourself, but the list above is a good starting point.

 

You can PM me if you have any questions.

 

Would that be the same for ST or TT? Obviousley theres more stress on the engine but id like to get away with not spending silly amounts on internals :)

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Guest prescience

There is AFAIK no endorsed ST solution for the UK?

 

You can hedge your bets and install a S/C (Vortech), safe in the knowledge that it can relatively easily be removed if, for example, the power is not sufficient and confident in that you will get most of your outlay back.

 

There is no equivalent 'hedge' route for TT ;)

 

TBH up to 400BHp, you might as well go S/C if you are not prepared to spend a lot more on internals :)

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How do you mean research?? www.my350z.com is a good point of info.

 

Abbey motorsport have done a decent job for StephenG, and he's happy with them. With them doing an install on the kit previously, that should save you some install time. They have also done the tuning work, so thats in your favour as well.

 

With regard to the power figures, you can only take them with a pinch of salt, dyno's arent that accurate, and it can vary greatly between dyno's and who's doing the dyno pull.

 

I really wouldnt want to spend all that money on internals for that kind of power.

 

Cheers some great info- with a US twist

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So I can do the zorst (does it have to be true dual), gauges and 1 steps, but then Also have to do all the internals, as it looks like the internals will cost £10K to do alone

 

It doesnt have to be true dual, no. Alot of people prefer the larger diameter single systems for supercharging (nismo, etc).

 

I'm still debating which zorst to go for, I'm concerned with S/C, HF Cats, and a Nismo, it may be too loud, I,m still very keen on a Miltek exhaust as I know from past experience that (ecu modded) you will get a performance gain and plus they are a bit more subtle, Lomoto, did't you have one?

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Yep, they did both of ours. I'd highly recommend them, but if you phone them now expect to be taking the car there about February.

 

Captint - you have to remember that Bap has done pretty much everything FI on his car, and he's gone to the absolute extreme. My list of 'must do's on the Vortech kit is much more basic, especially if you aren't going to be driving everywhere with WOT (I don't)

 

Larger oil pan (I have the JWT spacer)

Colder plugs

Uprated fuel hoses (an absolute must - safety issue)

 

With these optional bits:

Some sort of AFM with wideband gauge (optional)

Clutch (if you're thinking of doing balls-out standing starts)

Uprated fuel pump (between 5000 and 6000 rpm suffers without it)

Dual exhaust and better plenum (the weak links in the breathing of the engine. This will release the remaining horses)

 

And that will do you for simple stuff. Other than that I'd go for an aftermarket ECU if you want to tweak stuff yourself, but the list above is a good starting point.

 

You can PM me if you have any questions.

 

Thanks Steve, I needs to find the balance between power and cost. I will have a chat to the Abbey chaps and see what they say, where abouts are they? Also I have some more detailed questions so I will PM you

 

Cheers

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