steve916 Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 It is a bit awkward to get out. What I did was to use a pair of pipe grips to squeeze the tab in. The tab is directly facing the camera in that shot above, so you have to manoeuvre the grips into position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spork Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 Cheers Steve, I tried again this morning and it came out without too much fuss now that I knew how it worked. Great guide - I replaced the stock sat nav with a shiny new phablet, which pipes music to the Bose. Hopefully it'll pay off the several hours of swearing in no time! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z Enthusiast Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Massive thanks to Husky and all the other contributors for writing this great thread! Was seriously fed up with not being able to listen to cd's without serious skipping issues. Was going to replace the head unit but thought for £6 might give this a go. WOW the sound quality is amazing, no noise interference and more importantly no motor noise. I didn't cut through the tracks or remove the spring and clip. I found an old cassette and removed the insides and just have that in the tape player. Thanks again to everyone 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juggalo Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Followed your guide up to a point, then put an female Aux in instead. A little more adaption needed to the PCB and chassis, but nothing major. Cheers buddy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 Did the same, but took the female jack back into the centre cubby hole thing (where the phone holder sits) as it was more convenient for me. Was running wires already for iPhone charging s made sense. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juggalo Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 Good idea, that didn't occur to me actually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy_Baton Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I've had to do the tape reset 3 times now and each time its been a PITA. Not helped in that the first 2 times I did it I must have tried it 20-30 times, given up, gone to bed and then it next time I've turned the engine on its just worked... I've just figured out what I was doing wrong, so putting it hear to help others (but mainly so I can reference it next time I need to do it) 1) read the instructions properly... 2) Each time you try the reset you need to wait for the tape deck to stop making the whirring noises before holding down the eject button for 60 seconds. so if the reset fails, press the eject button. wait the 10-15 seconds for the whirring to stop, then switch the ignition off and hold the eject button down for 60 seconds. I was only letting the whirring noise run out on the first attempt no all the others... Worked first time as soon as I realised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share Posted April 21, 2016 (edited) I've updated the steps here: http://www.350z-uk.c...de/#entry686203 With info regarding both cutting of the tracks and removal of the spring. Both of these seem to be a common point of confusion so I hope that clears it up. 5 years later... Better late than never 31) Use a sharp blade to cut these three tracks, make sure you do not cut any other tracks in the process. INFO: By cutting these tracks you will disable the tape playing ability of your head unit. If you never plan to listen to a cassette again, then go ahead and cut these. These lines were originally cut to reduce noise, however many people have left them intact and had no issue. It is your choice. 32) Now remove the spring circled in red in the below picture. also remove the metal slider circled in blue. This removes the need for a tape to be present INFO: Again, removing these will disable your tape player, if you do not remove these you will need to trick the player into thinking a tape is present by either: once fully installed use a pen or similar in the tape slot to push/engage the mechanism until it locks in like it would with a tape being pushed in. OR, find an old cassette, pull out all the tape so it's empty, then leave it in the slot. The bay door will remain slightly open with a tape in, which some find unappealing. All three methods achieve the same goal, tricking the unit into thinking a working tape is present. 33) Slot the tape deck back into position being very carefull to line up the connector underneath correctly, do not bend any pins. Replace the four screws on the tape deck. Edited April 21, 2016 by Husky 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob94 Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Great guide just done this and it works perfectly, didn't even need to reset after re-installation Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strudul Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Been using a tape adaptor, but really need to get my act together and do this. Where did you guys route the aux cable? Looking for ideas, but don't want to drill / cut anything. Are there any convenient holes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diggerman Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 hardest part is soldering 3 wires to a clearly marked area Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy_Baton Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Easiest thing is to go straight up into the cubby hole. Others have used a longer cable and gone into the arm rest box (where the Bluetooth adapter is). I don't think you have to make any holes yourself, but to go to the arm rest you need to pull up more trim. Plenty of pictures in this thread. There's some in build thread too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strudul Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 (edited) I usually have my phone stuck to the cubby hole door, so wouldn't want a wire trailing over the handbrake and gearstick to my phone. If there is space for a wire to trail out of the cubby hole with the door closed then that might work. I was thinking more along the lines of through into the passenger footwell next to the 12V outlet. Edited February 18, 2017 by Strudul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy_Baton Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 I mounted mine inside the cubby hole, don't think 5hefe would be room for a cable. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strudul Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Looks good. I just have a sticky pad I slap my phone onto: Please ignore the scratched button. I didn't do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt3579 Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Looks good. I just have a sticky pad I slap my phone onto: Please ignore the scratched button. I didn't do it. you probs know already but if you take the cubby apart you paint the button without the rest of the cubby makes it look ,much better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strudul Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 you probs know already but if you take the cubby apart you paint the button without the rest of the cubby makes it look ,much better Aye, it's on the to-do list, but the rest of the cubby is scratched and needs sorting too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexdaeo Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 Hello I own a 2006 350z with Nav and my headunit doesn't have a Tape deck, do you guys have any ideas if I could solder the aux cable to the cd part of the motherboard? or even the AM part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shunter8 Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 Just used this handy guide to modify my headunit so I could run a line out from my Pioneer SPA-11DAB unit the wife bought me for Christmas. Sound quality is much better over the phono line than running it over FM signal. Thanks very much for the detailed write up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 Huge bump. Can someone send me a link to the correct cable needed to do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy_Baton Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 Any lead with a headphone jack at one end will do. Just cut off whatever connector is at the other end and cut the sheath off a few cm of the wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted September 18, 2022 Share Posted September 18, 2022 Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted September 18, 2022 Share Posted September 18, 2022 So I got to this part and don't appear to have access to any screws? Anyone else face this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy_Baton Posted September 18, 2022 Share Posted September 18, 2022 Not seen that before. My guess is that yours is different because it came with the factory sat nav I’d just have a pull on those tabs and see if there are screws behind them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted September 19, 2022 Share Posted September 19, 2022 There's no sat nav mate, I'm scared to pull too much in case I break anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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