How to - BOSE PHONO / IPOD " hack " - guide

[JackStrong]

I guess he could do that for you, pita really. I just got a connector to an aftermarket iphone jack connector. Its pretty solid.

 

No you will not have the enter code situation. The unit is paired with the car remember.

[Shaun1982]

Don't know bout the wire situation but you shouldn't get the code bit, I've had mine in & out about 3 times and not seen it

[cs2000]

Nope, as above you only get enter code if the unit is from another car.

 

Louisa, what I have done (also knowing those 3.5mm jack leads ALWAYS break) is...

 

- Do the hack as per the guide.

 

- Then buy a headphone extension lead such as this.

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1497.l2649

 

- Then buy a Jack socket alone such as this.

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1497.l2649

 

- Drill a hole in the centre cubby and fitted the jack socket into this hole and soldered the extension lead to this.

 

- The extension cable created above plugs into the lead that I added from the Head unit as per the standard guide.

 

- I then have ANOTHER 3.5mm cable that connects between the jack socket in the cubby and my phone. (i also have a right angled adaptor as i thought it looked neater but that's personal preference).

 

Its probably a bit over the top really but those 3.5mm leads always break at some point or another with constant handling and I wanted to avoid having to re-do the hack.

 

Il get some photos later as i think its a really good way to do it!

Edited April 4, 2013 by cs2000

[Louisa911]

Thanks, be interested to see!

 

We are aiming for similar, but with an iPod lead and USB socket rather than 3.5mm.... which will hopefully enable charging at the same time. Should just need an earth and power supply?

Guess we shall just have to try and find out!

[cs2000]

Il post my comments on this in the other thred you made to keep the different methods separate http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/69593-ipod-bose-hack-usb-socket-rather-than-35mm-jack/

Edited April 4, 2013 by cs2000

[Louisa911]

Good plan!

[cs2000]

Heres photos of the iPod (iPhone) part of my hack to show what I meant above. Full details Il put in Louisa's thread (link above) as it related more to that.

 

3.5mm jack in the cubby hole

 

Wired into an extension so I can just un-plug and replace wires if necessary

 

Here it is with a 90 degree adaptor and a retracting reel to keep the cable tidy

Edited September 3, 2020 by cs2000
P500

[MikeeB]

Attempted this after work last night and was surprised at just how easy it was to do. Just under 2 hours it took me to strip out the headunit, solder the cable in, put it all back together and turn on the ignition easy. The sound quality compared to the FM modulator I was using is undeniably better.

 

And best of all, the OEM look is maintained.

[Hooch]

I'v been looking and I'm thinking of getting a USB power port in the middle cubby and the 3.5 jack.

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item257cbe3162

 

Also with the previously posted 3.5 panel jack:

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1497.l2649

 

Just an idea and there are a lot of step down converters and USB leads.

 

Looks stealthy though...

Edited August 8, 2013 by Hooch

[timb2010]

After doing the hack, Instead of running the phono cable through the middle section and needing to be plugged into your phone....... why not buy one of these instead and keep the phone in your pocket.?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACKBERRY-REMOTE-STEREO-GATEWAY-MUSIC-AUDIO-ADAPTER-A2DP-Best-price-anywhere-/251321063852?pt=UK_MobilePhones_MobilePhoneAccessories_MobilePhoneChargers&hash=item3a83e719ac

 

BLACKBERRY BLUETOOTH REMOTE STEREO GATEWAY MUSIC AUDIO ADAPTER

 

I did this on my previous car, you plug the phono lead (that's connected to the bose) into the adaptor and pair your phone with it. you can then keep everything installed below the handbrake area. TOTAL STEALTH!!

 

You don't have to have a blackberry phone. In my old car my phone would connect automatically to the blackberry and also to the bmw stereo for the telephone features.

Worked really well.

[cs2000]

That looks sweet, however the iPhone (as far as I know) doesn't support A2DP (audio Bluetooth streaming), other phones, android etc would work awesome with this, good spot!

 

EDIT: appears im wrong and they do support it! However remember you can only pair with 1 device at a time, so if you are paired with this you cant use the Bluetooth kit in the car to take/make a call.

Edited August 22, 2013 by cs2000

[timb2010]

Hi CS2000.

I could connect two at once on my s3 galaxy.

 

Hold fire incase you we're thinking of taking my advise and buying one of these, I've just moved mine from the BMW and the zed has a MASSIVE amount of interference!!! Unbearable. I remember reading something about weird earthing on the Bose stereos.? Maybe I'm wrong. Anyhow it doesn't sound good at all!!!

[cs2000]

Odd, im sure my iPhone is 1 at a time.

 

Anyways, interference. The only time I hear it is when im charging my phone and trying to use the aux in, I hear a whine that increases with RPM, its just feedback same as you can get in a badly setup sub system, not sure why I get it, everything is earthed correctly but its only slight and I just have to not charge and play music through the jack at the same time.

 

There is a little bit of interference sometimes caused by the tape drive motors, but there's sod all you can do about that really.

[Hooch]

I think you can pair S3 with 2 Bluetooth devices but only media on one and calls on the other.

 

Cutting the tracks may help remove the interference.

[champy]

Hey guys, I tried this and after doing the reset I got the aux cable working (absolutely awful sound, sounds like it's inside a can) but none of the stereo buttons are working! I can turn it on, adjust volume, load and eject a cd but no other buttons work at all, can't change radio channel, or select cd player or tape player. Any idea what could be causing it?

 

By the way, this is a fantastic guide, so though-rough.

Edited September 15, 2013 by champy

[Randy_Baton]

HI,

going to try this soon.

 

Would a 3.5m to 3.5m wire be fine to use, everyone seem to be suggesting starting with a 3.5m to phono lead? Presumably 3.5 to 3.5 still has the 2 audio wires and the grounding wire?

 

Slightly off topic but I've got one of those tapes with a 3.5m lead coming off it but when I put it in the BOSE tape player sounds like its constantly fast forwarding, is this normal?

[Randy_Baton]

I seem to be having a similar issue to Champy

 

When I connected the wires at the back of the stereo the tape player started cycling. When I turned on the ignition for the first time the tape player said 'side 1'. I then went through the reset procedure and it's now stuck on fm 87.5. None of the buttons work except, power, volume and load cd. Any ideas????

 

The Head unit hasn't given me any error messages ??

 

I did manage to pull the ground wire contact of the PCB, so just scratched down to copper further in the line and soldered on to there. as shown below. Would this create an issue?

Edited October 6, 2013 by Randy_Baton

[cs2000]

Weird, clearly been some damage done. When I did mine I had the soldering iron set too high and essentially removed the copper tracks from the board

 

I ended up turning down the heat and soldering onto the appropriate contacts an inch above where shown in the photo, the solder blobs that are already there are all labelled with white writing, I simply re-melted those, added a bit more and bobs you're uncle.

 

I also use a small cutting when and removed the tracks on the PCB as suggested to cut down on noise, if either of you have done that is there a chance you've cut another track too?

 

Above all, the reset is VERY fiddly, the timing has to be absolutely, almost millisecond perfect otherwise it does nothing. Ive had to reset mine twice over the 6-7 months ive done the hack (don't push the tape eject button....) as the desk just starts mating noises, and it takes me somewhere around 305 tries to get it every time.

[Randy_Baton]

I didn't cut the tracks,so that's not an issue. Thought I might as well hear how it sounds first.

 

Could you run me through the reset?

• What does the stereo show before you do a reset, I'm not seeing any warning/error? So do I need to do a reset?
  
• Do you turn the ignition all the way off and when you turn it back on do you go one click, 2 click or turn the engine on (3 clicks)?
  
• Do you wait for the ignition to be off before holding down the eject button or hold it down before switching the ignition off or try to press the button and turn the ignition off at the same time?
  
• When you hold it down do you try and turn on the ignition as soon as it stops or just after?
  
• Do you keep your finger on eject as you turn the ignition, when do you let go?
  

Thanks for any help.

[cs2000]

Ok, to reset...

 

Turn car on after doing the hack, let the stereo stop making noises etc.

Turn car all the way to position 0 (off)

Hold the tape eject button for exactly 60 seconds, id heavily advise using a stopwatch.

Let go of the button exactly on 60 seconds and turn car to position 1 (ign)

Press"tape" hopefully the display should say Side1 and shouldn't be clicking/making any weird noises.

 

Did you also remove the slider and the reset spring as the guide suggests (I did).

[Randy_Baton]

I got in today turned the ignition on and it was already saying side 1. I've tested the line in and it works fine. However the radio doesn't work. If I click eject the radio comes on but only to static and I can't tune it. I then have to perform the tape reset to get the line in working.

 

At least I can use the line in though! No radio is a bummer but it's a start.

Edited October 7, 2013 by Randy_Baton

[Randy_Baton]

The issue myself and Champy were both having was a button on the face plate had been pushed in. Don't know which button it was on Champys but mine was the tape button. Champy prised his back out I took out the faceplate and unscrewed the backing PCB to free it.

 

All works fine now, although there is definitely more noticeable background noise on Radio/line in, its even there when the stereo is apparently switched off? It's bearable though and doesn't increase with volume and my after market exhaust means I need my tunes loud!

 

Thanks for the help everyone.

[Jp606]

I did this a while ago and it works fine, however I have to connect my iPhone before starting the ignition for it work. If the car is running and I plug it in and select tape, then it doesn't work and just plays through my phone. Does anyone else's do this?

Edited October 13, 2013 by Jp606

[Randy_Baton]

I did this a while ago and it works fine, however I have to connected my iPhone before starting the ignition for it work. If the car is running and I plug it in and select tape, then it doesn't work and just plays through my phone. Does anyone else's do this?

 

That doesn't sound right at all, if anything is plugged into the headphone socket it should cut out the iphone speakers. I just tested it on my iphone with a 3.5mm jack that hasn't even got any wires attached to it yet and the sound still won't come out of the iPhone. Sounds like your jack isn't in correctly id its coming out the iphone speakers.

[cs2000]

Hmm, definitely something wrong there. I canty even come up with a reason why it would do this. Randy is correct, even a 3.5mm jack with no wires will cut the sound from the iPhone.

 

Glad your issues got sorted anyway. Think I did this when I first re-assembled, but noticed the button didn't look right before I put it back in the car. They do seem fairly easy to snag when you re-attach everything.