terribleone Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Ok, I have the dreaded rattle/clatter from the passenger side front wheel area. I've taken the car to my friend's garage and had a good poke about underneath, which brought up nothing...so I've had a search on here and would like to run this by anyone who has had a similar problem. The symptoms are; - Rattling/clunking sound, sounds as if something is 'loose' and about to fall off. A very repetetive sound when it occurs ie. a constant rattle until you're onto a smooth surface... not just one or two clunks. - Most audible at speeds below 30mph, and on rough roads. - Fades away or completely disappears under braking. - Disappears under left foot braking. - Easily overlooked or completely undetectable when the car is on a ramp and the suspension manipulated with a pry bar. My money is on the ball joint end of the banana bar/compression rod...but I'd like some second opinions before parting with a big wad of cash for a new one!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Ok, I have the dreaded rattle/clatter from the passenger side front wheel area. I've taken the car to my friend's garage and had a good poke about underneath, which brought up nothing...so I've had a search on here and would like to run this by anyone who has had a similar problem. The symptoms are; - Rattling/clunking sound, sounds as if something is 'loose' and about to fall off. A very repetetive sound when it occurs ie. a constant rattle until you're onto a smooth surface... not just one or two clunks. - Most audible at speeds below 30mph, and on rough roads. - Fades away or completely disappears under braking. - Disappears under left foot braking. - Easily overlooked or completely undetectable when the car is on a ramp and the suspension manipulated with a pry bar. My money is on the ball joint end of the banana bar/compression rod...but I'd like some second opinions before parting with a big wad of cash for a new one!! No big wad of cash require mate viewtopic.php?f=157&t=43455 viewtopic.php?f=157&t=43456 viewtopic.php?f=157&t=43458 If the bush is gone then just a visual inspection will determine that. The ball joint can be checked for movement with a pry bar and/or by jacking up and rocking the wheel. Let me know if I can help you further. All in stock and good to go same/next day. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jez @ H-Dev Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 I'm about to do mine - the bushes are filled with silicon goo and on mine its just started to leak out. You maybe able to see if yours are the same just by going on full lock and checking. Alex, what are those cone shaped things in the last link - where do they go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 I'm about to do mine - the bushes are filled with silicon goo and on mine its just started to leak out. You maybe able to see if yours are the same just by going on full lock and checking. Alex, what are those cone shaped things in the last link - where do they go? They go on the ball joint stem to create a taper to fit in the hole in the hub carrier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jez @ H-Dev Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Gotcha - so only really needed if swapping to different / new arms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 We are going to be seeing alot of this problems as most cars are getting to that age were the mushy bushes are deteriorating to produce noticeable play. I have just started a thead to cover what everything one would need to know before deciding on the best solution to replace the bush(es) at fault. viewtopic.php?f=100&t=47058 But on thing i would say is if you track your car or it is lowered then you need to be thinking at solid bushes from SPL USA, same one Abbey now carry or urethane bush from Superpro UK, because the OEM stlye rubber will tear again due to the banana arm siting an angle when lowered rather than neutral. For normal zed then the option of using this OEM style provided by Alex is perfect and cheap to buying the whole arm new from Nissan but you could still go for Superpro urethane bush for better longevity and firmer feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Gotcha - so only really needed if swapping to different / new arms? Yip, that is indeed the case Jez, however the old cone can be swopped over to the new compression arm if it is not scored or damaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleone Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 No big wad of cash require mate Well, less of a wad of cash...£250 would fuel my car for a month! My mechanic had the car up on a ramp, checked everything with a pry bar and wobbled the wheels to check for play...he didn't notice anything, so is it quite hard to notice any movement? I've read of people changing several parts before getting to the compression arm, if it was that obvious I guess you'd notice straight away?? Cheers for the replies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 No big wad of cash require mate Well, less of a wad of cash...£250 would fuel my car for a month! if it was that obvious I guess you'd notice straight away?? Absolutely, providing they know what they are looking for mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.