Cookbot Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 This is work in progress and should be finished in the next few days. Unconnected your battery before you start!!!!! Tools needed: -10mm socket and extension -flat blade screw driver -Chisel or other similar levering tool -Electrical tape -Pliers and strong hands or a crimp tool. Wilkinsons do one for about £4 http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/Pliers+Wrenches/Wilko-4-Way-Crimping-Tool/invt/0209039?htxt=a%2Bk6UmXXj8ov9peURU0Fk7%2Ber6KMt6OppX1KXu1exPCbh4ZCYpvCpHrHwPjSm%2BRJYWXHAJYBzAPU%0AHJZdANswow%3D%3D 1a) You'll need to remove the inner door panel to access the lock. To do this, you'll need a lever of some kind (I use a wood chisel), a 10mm socket and extension, a flat head screwdriver and a sheet or blanket to rest the door inner on while you're working. 1b) (skip if on facelift 06+ car) use a flat head screwdriver to lever out the little round cover where you put your hand to close the door and remove the screw. 2) First you need to lever out the inner door panel where the controls are. I used a wood chisel and a piece of tape to protect it. 3)Use your screw driver to free the 2 white plugs which attach to this control unit. There's a small part you can push in to free the plug. 4) You then need to remove the plastic cover that lives behind your door handle. I again used a piece of tape to protect things 5) This will reveal a 10mm bolt which you need to remove. Don't worry too much if you drop it, you'll see it again soon! 6) Now remove the 2 remaining bolts you uncovered earlier on. 7) Now it's time to remove the panel, find the 2 indentations at the bottom of the door and give a firm tug on the plastic. 8) Once the clips are off the cover is only held on by hooking over the window frame at the top, it will just slide up and pull away. 9) (skip if on pre 06 non facelift car) Use your flat screwdriver to remove this gray plug, it's the same style of design as the 2 white ones earlier on. 10) I found it easier to remove the door inner altogether so I could work in comfort. The white parts of this just pull up and slide out releasing the door inner. 11) Now it's time for wiring, just take your time and will all be fine. It might be worth stripping back some of the black insulation that surrounds the loom to give you a little extra space, but be very gentle with it and don't slice though any cable insulation. There are 3 wires which need to be spliced (this is just joining another wire to an existing wire) and 2 wires which need to be cut. This makes the 4 points to connect wires to. You can either strip back a little of the insulation, twist and solder the wire on if you're up to the task or just use the provided red quick splice. Just put in the loom wire followed by the wire I've provided. Press the metal tab down with pliers locking the wires in place then close the cover. 12) First, find the White wire that connects to to the larger of the 2 white connectors you undid early on, splice the white wire to it. The diagram shows as though you are looking into the back of it (ie the way the wires enter) 13) Now find the other smaller connector block and the black wire that comes from this. Splice on the Black wire. 14) On the same small connector there's a turquoise wire that needs to have the pink wire spliced to it. (Pink was the only colour wire available that was suitable thickness) 15) Now you need to cut 2 wires and crimp on the supplied connectors so you have a total of 4 terminations (little red connectors) The first is the purple wire, snip in two, but leave enough wire so you can crimp on to both wires. It's worth anticipating if you fook it up and making sure you have enough wire to cut it short and have another go or 2. The purple wire connects into the smaller white connector. 16) Time to cut the second wire. This should be a grey wire again on the smaller white connector. Again my 06 Z had a different wire, but this time was white with a green stripe on it. Check where the wire enters the white connector on the wiring diagram to be sure. With both wires cut it should look a little like this 17) Now it's time to crimp on the supplied connectors. Pay attention to which style of connector is fitted to which wire. This is so if you decide you don't want the unit fitted you can just plug the wires back together and it will all work just as normal and no more wire cutting or crimping is needed. 18) Connect the: Grey wire that goes to the white connector to the Grey wire on the unit. - Grey to Grey Purple wire that goes to the white connector to the Purple wire on the unit - Purple to Purple Grey wire that goes off into the car loom to the Yellow wire on the unit - Grey to Yellow Purple wire that goes off into the car loom to the Green wire on the unit. - Purple to Green 19) The micro switch will need gluing on the lock so is activated when the car is opened or one member has told me he used self tapping screws. You will be able to see how the lock activates the microswitch. You may also need to manipulate the lever so it acts on the lock mechanism. Be careful though, it's delicate. You also need to make sure that when the car moves the lock (when you do it off the car key fob) it actually activates the micro switch as it sometimes doesn't move all the way. Lock the door with the lock cables reconnected, but so you can see. 20) Now it's all wired up, reconnect your battery and test the lock on the handle. 21) Refitting the plastics is just the opposite of removing. The relay unit can be stuck on to a piece of foam that sits behind the window controls or find your own little place for it and use the strips of double sided sticky foam. All done!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaydnH Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Using Posi-Lock Connectors may make the wire splicing easier for anyone worried about the wire splicing part - excellent things! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GruntBoy Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Looks great so far mate, thanks a lot. Sorry to sound like a numpty, but any chance you could put a photo or two of the wires being sliced and how you're joining them together before the tape wraps around them please? I'm a complete newbie to doing anything like this... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaydnH Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Sorry to sound like a numpty, but any chance you could put a photo or two of the wires being sliced and how you're joining them together before the tape wraps around them please? Posi-Lock connectors make it easy (as long as you get the correct wires shown above): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookbot Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 I had a feeling that splicing may prove awkward, so I'm going to supply the kits with 3 of these. Just place the main loom wire and the additional one in, press the metal bit down with pliers and click the cover down. Splice done.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GruntBoy Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 That's brilliant, cheers Cockbot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter10 Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 I was fairly confident about this before reading the guide.... Hmm lol. Do you lose any settings if you disconnect the battery? My old car lost the radio code etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JetSet Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 I was fairly confident about this before reading the guide.... Hmm lol. Do you lose any settings if you disconnect the battery? My old car lost the radio code etc. The computer resets itself, so you lose mpg average speed etc. Don't think the radio is affected. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shieldsie Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Will the D1 spec controller require re-setting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter10 Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 After re-reading this the only part that confuses me is step 15. I assume this is just cutting the wire in half to make a male/female connection to just to make removing the relay a lot easier in the future and not to connect any other wires to it ect. Also, how much time should I allow myself to do this? I'm working late shifts for the first half of this week and don't want to run out of time . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookbot Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 Those 2 wires you cut in 15) become the 4 that you connect to my unit. I only show them connected back together to show you what it looks like if you put it back to standard. The 2 grey wires and the 2 purple ones connect to the purple, grey, yellow and green wires on my unit, but more pics will follow. I'm looking at re doing the photos to this guide, but won't be able to do it until the weekend when I'm installing on a pre 06 car. Time wise I'd give your self about 2 hours, although I usually do them in about 30 mins now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter10 Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 Thanks for the reply. I probably wont have time to do it until Saturday/Sunday when I am on day shifts after doing late shifts during weekdays. After re-re-reading, when you do some new pictures, could you show where you glue it? Not too sure about that bit either . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookbot Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Guide updated with pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
penfolduk Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 Stupid question But is the wiring on a JDM the same colours as a uk spec car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scubapics Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Fitted this myself this weekend. The guide is very good and the quality of the ciruit is also top notch. Good to see someone who can do vero board properly! One tip for anyone doing this themselves. Don't use araldite or glue to fix the microswitch in place or there is a reasonable chance that you will get glue on the lever hinge and the switch will stop working once set. Instead either use self tapping screws or use some no nails double sided tape so that you can accurately apply to the switch. It also means the device can be used and tested immediately. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D4XNY Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Received my pack today... And all fitted to the car already! After familiarising myself with the guide, so i pretty much had it in my head what to do, i took the door apart in about 10 mins... I then exposed the looms i was dealing with, the ones that connect to the controls. I then spliced the black, white and turquoise wire, attaching the black, white and pink wire, as in the guide. I then cut the purple and grey wire and attached as shown on the guide......simples The tricky bit was mounting the micro switch. But was quickly overcome.... I just offered the door panel to the door, got some double sided foam tape (for number plates etc) and stuck the switch on while pressing the lock/unlock (its a good idea to attach the wires to the locking mechanism) this just makes sure, that when the vehicle is locked it presses the microswitch so therefore it folds the mirrors... Pretty easy job, and the guide helps a lot And im very happy with the mod Cheers Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimjim Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 Anyone near Telford want help fitting this? Just did mine in under and hour! I used self-tappers for fixing the microswitch. Cookbot for the WIN! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookbot Posted March 26, 2011 Author Share Posted March 26, 2011 FTW! Thanks people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 Got mine today About an hour to install and - "It Does What it Says On The Tin!" I went with the self tappers for the micro switch (so the door panel can still be completely removed) With the guide the wiring is simple enuff (I managed it) The micro switch is a little bit tricky to line up. I found that with the self tappers and a washer between the switch and the door panel on the whole furthest from the locking mechanism it lined up better. Overall I reckon a good DIY mod and I'm very happy with the result! Buster get yours ordered and I'll come over and fit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buster Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 i am seriously thinking about it and thanks for the offer....that may well sway it for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomS Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Tried installing it yesterday and have failed Anyone round Manchester available at any point to give me a hand? Spliced wires, cut wires and connected them, stuck everything back together and the provided switch did nothing when I locked/unlocked the door and the button for the wing mirrors did nothing. Took it all apart, started again, got the controls in the door working but I still can't get the switch from cookie working at all Massive. Fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gudzy Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 I've done step 6 but I couldn't figure out what I'm doing in step 7, there seems to be 4 indentations under the door and I couldn't pull it off. Any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watshot Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 I've done step 6 but I couldn't figure out what I'm doing in step 7, there seems to be 4 indentations under the door and I couldn't pull it off. Any tips? I'm afraid there's no magic tip, you've just got to pull harder! There are plastic poppers all the way around and they can be very tight. Maybe try the back corner first, there are poppers a few inches along both the vertical and horizontal edges, hook your fingers under each edge, and with your knee against the door to offer resistance, give it a sharp pull. Once out, the others should follow suit as you work your way around. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomS Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 I've done step 6 but I couldn't figure out what I'm doing in step 7, there seems to be 4 indentations under the door and I couldn't pull it off. Any tips? Try starting bottom right of the door, it took me bloody ages first time as I thought I was going to snap the plastic as I've never done anything like this, but it just needed a proper good tug and it snaps off. I got the bottom right popper off by wedging something inbetween and using as a lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gudzy Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 Try starting bottom right of the door, it took me bloody ages first time as I thought I was going to snap the plastic as I've never done anything like this, but it just needed a proper good tug and it snaps off. I got the bottom right popper off by wedging something inbetween and using as a lever. Yep, I felt like I was going to break something myself so thought I'd post on here for advice first before I did some damage. I'll eat my spinach and hopefully have another go this weekend if the weather isn't bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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