mc Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Guess there may be an electrician or two on here who can give a little bit of advice? Yesterday the girlfriend's washer dryer stopped part way through the cycle, making a clicking noise (which I found to be the pressure switch). After switching the machine off and pulling it away from the wall to have a look, I found that the plug was hot and had started to melt around the neutral pin, and was starting to melt the socket. I'm guessing that it was some sort of poor contact between the plug and socket causing local heating, as the cable to the machine wasnt hot. Is this just a cheapo socket, or the fact the plug never gets removed and moisture could have caused corrosion inside? The washer is under warranty so I don't just want to fit a new plug incase the washer is actually faulty. cheers for any help with this Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Is the fuse rating in the plug correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 its 13 Amp fuse, I'd have thought that is correct for washer dryer? 1850W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goldcrest Four Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 To be on the safe side; Iwould suggest a 10amp fuse. (10amps x 240volts = 2,400 watts) That will give a surge margin over your 1800 watt machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 I'd pull it apart if it's not sealed to see what's going on. For a socket to melt there is something not right in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael robinson Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 If it's under warranty I wouldn't even bother playing with it bud let them take it way and investigate it , it's very unusual for the neutral wire to become hot or melt for anyother reason than wire has not been tightened properly in the plug and the heat from the plug has melted the socket or it had a bad contact between plug and socket just replace socket if damaged and if the washer is not vital let them replace it but if it is remove the plug refit a new plug and make sure all connections are tight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 I'm starting to think the washer is OK, its just the socket that's causing the problem, as only the plug got warm, not the cable. Its a moulded plug too. I don't think she's ever changed the fuse from new, but I'll get a 10A fuse when its fixed Her house is rented so she'll have to get the socket sorted by the landlord I think. If it was my house I'd put a new plug on the cable and try the machine in another socket, and keep an eye on it. thanks for the advice guys, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beavis Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Replace plug and socket. Can only be a poor termination in the plug or a bad plug/socket connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael robinson Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 I'm starting to think the washer is OK, its just the socket that's causing the problem, as only the plug got warm, not the cable. Its a moulded plug too. I don't think she's ever changed the fuse from new, but I'll get a 10A fuse when its fixed Her house is rented so she'll have to get the socket sorted by the landlord I think. If it was my house I'd put a new plug on the cable and try the machine in another socket, and keep an eye on it. thanks for the advice guys, It will be ok mate just a dodgy connection , even if it a moulded plug these things are mass produced so every so often one of these can be missed , if it come with a 13amp fuse replace it with a 13amp fuse as the company would of factored in start up current, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Z Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 As an electrician of 23yrs,I would say it is a loose neutral terminal in the socket,replace the socket and the plug if damaged and fit a 10amp fuse,any melting is always a loose terminal issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael robinson Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 As an electrician of 23yrs,I would say it is a loose neutral terminal in the socket,replace the socket and the plug if damaged and fit a 10amp fuse,any melting is always a loose terminal issue Why reduced the rating of a fuse ? The manufacture rated that fuse at the level for a number of reason ie start up current , variation in loads etc so why change it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beavis Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 As an electrician of 23yrs Is that all? try 31 years here +1 on keeping the same size fuse as supplied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 As an electrician of 23yrs,I would say it is a loose neutral terminal in the socket,replace the socket and the plug if damaged and fit a 10amp fuse,any melting is always a loose terminal issue Why reduced the rating of a fuse ? The manufacture rated that fuse at the level for a number of reason ie start up current , variation in loads etc so why change it ? Surely the modern motors in these machines will have soft starters? The inrush current on a soft start is far less than on a direct start motor. I'm used to 3 phase stuff though so maybe I'm way off for domestic stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beavis Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Typically, a modern washing machine will draw approximately 7-12 amps. However, anticipate a higher amperage when starting the machine as the machine will draw 1.5X the rated current to start the machine (starting current). And its not just about the motor, remember the heater on these things to heat the water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael robinson Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 I'm used to 3 phase stuff though so maybe I'm way off for domestic stuff. +1 but domestic is just a scaled down version but with the same principal's. Domestic stuff isn't big and bulky so don't require system's such as soft start or inverters to control the motors . Domestic appliances run direct drive motors and most just use electronic circuit boards ie relays etc to control them Typically, a modern washing machine will draw approximately 7-12 amps. However, anticipate a higher amperage when starting the machine as the machine will draw 1.5X the rated current to start the machine (starting current). And its not just about the motor, remember the heater on these things to heat the water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 I'm used to Variable Speed drives (low and high voltage) controlling submersible motors with high load pumps attached that are 5 - 25 thousand feet away from the VSD! I have done DOL stuff too with switchboards so I was basing it on higher load stuff. It's not really comparable to domestic stuff with superimposed signals on power cables and other stuff. Anyway I just push buttons in the office these days to control them all thousands of miles away! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beavis Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 I change 60 watt bulbs to changing 500 horse-power three phase motors to programming S7 plc's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M9O OEY Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Im a maintenance electrician also generally working on three phase, ladder logic and control circuits , personally I'd definitely keep a 13a fuse in , as has previously been said there is a element a motor and other components to take into the overall load, Speak to your landlord as it sounds to me as tho the socket neutral had a loose connection causing the fault and the rest of the ringmain and sockets should be checked over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M9O OEY Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 S7 is a nightmare very complicated used S5 some yrs back and mitsubishi now only use Allen bradley which is very user friendly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beavis Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 S7 is a nightmare very complicated used S5 some yrs back and mitsubishi now only use Allen bradley which is very user friendly I work with Siemens S7 and S5 and have been working on Mitsubishi A series since the early 90's up to the Q series. Have worked with Allen Bradley and Square D also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael robinson Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 I am Also a maintenance engineer , I work on a full range of electrical systems -domestic electrics -office electrics -comm's rooms electrics - controls electrics ( first started building control pannels ) ( inverters etc) - BMS systems - fire systems (honeywell sf90 mainly) -Low voltage and currently on a course for high voltage switching , maintenance and safe isolation ( which scares me abit ) . I used to work for a company called haden but now been taken over buy interserve I only have 7 years experience as I was lucky enough to be taken on straight away at the age of 16 and now am 23 . But am forever learning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 Thanks for all the advice, put a new plug on and the washer worked fine in a different socket I'm still not quite sure why this caused the machine to 'click', or why it worked ok for a while after the first time it clicked? At least I can reassure the gf it wasn't the washer that caused the melting, and will get the other hidden sockets checked out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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