GT4 Zed Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Had my MOT yesterday and had advisory on a few things i already knew about but had not had time to fit despite having the parts - Front brake disc close to legal limit. Have had disc for months now but lazy to change and wanted to keep it fresh for the start of track season - Front braided lines need additional bracket to secure . They way clear of wheels or body parts . Easy fix though have multitude of brackets that came with the Ksport BBK - One loose adjustable nut on the front OS Powergrid droplink.....picky!!? 2 minutes jobbie while doing the above. - Worn suspenson bushes: The state of my front bushes is especially bad probably due to my stiff setup and geometry setting but even worse from when i inspected them mid-late last year when i fist notice a difference. They are quite shrunken and deteriorated with some minimal play which you can only feel on slow turns but it saps confidence on all-out hooning as feedback feels vague My plan was to get Whitelines fitted all round in March before the big trip along with some other goodies but wil need to do them sooner to avoid suspension failure. My queston is, has anyone changed their bushes to uprated ones? how hard a task? how long? how much and where? I will want to get also transmission, diff and engine mounts sameime if possible Is there any UK manufacturer making complete bushing kit for the zed? I spoke to Powerflex at Autosports last year and they did not do the zed then. I will also be putting up a few preowned parts for sale including these Ichiba front camber A arms (well under 1 year old): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerry3167 Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 I suspect engine mounts will give more cabin and steering wheel vibrations, but will partially eliminate wheel hop? Had the mounts in my CTR done and the hard bit is moving the engine and getting the old ones out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 I suspect engine mounts will give more cabin and steering wheel vibrations, but will partially eliminate wheel hop?Had the mounts in my CTR done and the hard bit is moving the engine and getting the old ones out. I am not too concerned with NVH as i already live with a K1 I spoke to Adam a while back and he said it was not too bad. You mean, uprated engine, tranny and diff mounts would give mainly more direct transmision of power down the driveline and positive gearshift changes while the rear subframe solid urethane bushes will eliminate wheel hop (OEM ones are to soft and gelfilled ..... for the comfort loving masses ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greekman Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 I suspect engine mounts will give more cabin and steering wheel vibrations, but will partially eliminate wheel hop?Had the mounts in my CTR done and the hard bit is moving the engine and getting the old ones out. I am not too concerned with NVH as i already live with a K1 I spoke to Adam a while back and he said it was not too bad. You mean, uprated engine, tranny and diff mounts would give mainly more direct transmision of power down the driveline and positive gearshift changes while the rear subframe solid urethane bushes will eliminate wheel hop (OEM ones are to soft and gelfilled ..... for the comfort loving masses ) Hey dude. hope you are doing well. as you know i ve had all of the above changed but the engine mounts. bugger of a job. rear subframe needs to come out. about 50!! working hours etc etc. doing it yourself you ll need the equipment of a fully stocked up garage and you ll have to do a lot of burning and sawing to get the old ones out. then good luck squeezing some of the new ones in (some of them are relatively easy to go in). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 AdrianK had his suspension ones done IIRC, and Tom at TGM Sport said it was a right sod of a job. I think the bits came out easy enough, but then replacing the actual bushes took him ages from what I remember. Best person to ask in Mr Alex of ZMAN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 Thanks guys, i'll give TGM a bell Greekman, please pm what you paid for the swap please and with whom. If they need the car for about 2 days and the price is better than around me i can come over to Hull to get it done. good opportunity to catch up on my friends there and experience your set up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greekman Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Thanks guys, i'll give TGM a bell Greekman, please pm what you paid for the swap please and with whom. If they need the car for about 2 days and the price is better than around me i can come over to Hull to get it done. good opportunity to catch up on my friends there and experience your set up you are welcome here any time m8...hunting season is ongoing atm as for the 2 days make it 2 weeks!!! i said over 50 working hours. price i ll email you but you are looking at 4 figures m8 then again i had a few more things done to it at the same time but still i cant see it taking much less time and being considerably less expensive. job was top notch but whoever does it has to run the garage as well. cant close it down for 3-4 days just to deal with one car as for my set up its great...and you will love the stiffness of the suspension...but you will lose your friends!!! anybody with back problems or less that bullet proof stomach wont like it...esp town driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Bennett, I do an exchange rear aluminium diff cradle with upgraded bushings providing your existing diff cradle is in good shape and the flats are still on the snail cam adjusters. Going the exchange route means that your downtime will only be 1 day instead of well over a week. Just add £650.00 onto the numbers that I gave you the other day mate. I usually have them good to go but I sold one in November 2010 and not had a chance to prepare another one so I don't have one good to go at the moment, as I have been extremely busy and as Chris has said it is a very time consuming job and certainly not the most pleasant of jobs. Also add on £70.00 for pallet shipping. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greekman Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 as Chris has said it is a very time consuming job and certainly not the most pleasant of jobs. i just emailed him that alex. john attacked me with a spanner when i went round one day taking the ****...he was trying to remove one of the subframe's bushings at the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 as Chris has said it is a very time consuming job and certainly not the most pleasant of jobs. i just emailed him that alex. john attacked me with a spanner when i went round one day taking the ****...he was trying to remove one of the subframe's bushings at the time You got off light then Chris as I had to put up with countless phone calls from John which basically all went like "There is bound be be a nucking easier nucking way to do this nucking job, I am going to kill that nucking greekman when I get a nucking hold of him as he told me that replacing the nucking bushes was a nucking stroll in the nucking park" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 Thanks Alex, i was actually thinking same route: get the subframe only, replace the bushes and then do the control/traction arms etc where applicable DIY and swap the subframes at my local friendly a garage. I don't mind getting my hands dirty or taking 1-2 weeks to DIY but i need to get the right kind of bush removal and pressing tool first to reduce the pain . Can you point me to where/what to look for it! Or even better what do you use Out of interest what uprated bushes do you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Thanks Alex, i was actually thinking same route: get the subframe only, replace the bushes and then do the control/traction arms etc where applicable DIY and swap the subframes at my local friendly a garage. I don't mind getting my hands dirty or taking 1-2 weeks to DIY but i need to get the right kind of bush removal and pressing tool first to reduce the pain . Can you point me to where/what to look for it! Or even better what do you use Out of interest what uprated bushes do you use? Bennett, I use the proper Nissan pressing tools mate. I bought most of the tools and what I don't have I borrow from Nissan. I also bought the proper Nissan press tool for replacing the front compression arm bushes as well, as it is so much easier and you get a far more professional finish to the job as well. I use similar bushes to what Adam at Z1 sells. I am also fortunate that I have a 30 ton industrial hydraulic press in the corner of the garage. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 You are the man Alex I have more ideas after doing some searches on how to tackle various parts of the job DIY and i'm forming a pretty good impression of how to go about it. I may just remove and tackle all the small suspension/control/traction arm bushes step at a time or even remove all at once and send then to you to swap the bushes (i'll supply the whitelines or SPL ) since you have the pukka nissan tools and press and DIY the diff/engine and transmission mounts on the car(as in the link below) then see how it goes. If there is still squirm/wheel hop in the rear then i'll do the subframe bushes later as this is more labour intensive I'll pm you a request of what bits i will send for bushing and you can give me quotes later DIY tackling the diff mounts install: http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetra ... her-4.html DIY transmission mounts install: http://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetra ... unt-2.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greekman Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 You are the man Alex the diff/engine and transmission mounts on the car(as in the link below) then see how it goes. If there is still squirm/wheel hop in the rear bennet even with all the bushings changed there will still be a bit a wheel hopping. its about 90% better but not 100%. pound for pound its probably the worst mod. but i does make the car feel more accurate, stiff, immediate and flatter. at the same time more bouncy, snappy and abrupt. all the best with mod...i am sure you ll be posting loads of rants Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adriank Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 Mine were done at TGM, it was a pig of a job even with the press. Took 2 full days in the end, with a suspension swap and clutch/flywheel at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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