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A while back...


Demolition49

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Some of you may or may not know ive been not posting untill recently as times got hard with studying and various other things... and just wanted to fill you on what has happened in the last few months.

 

Well first of all my car got broken in to in the middle of the night about 3 months ago, all the change stolen out of it (which was mainly stored in the little try on the passenger side) which they decided to rip out and take with them! Even my ipod headphones!

 

Everything inside the car was ruffled around, petrol receipts and so on... disgusted at the fact of somebody being in my car, i went to my boot, could see it wasn't closed properly, they took my gym bag, and leather bag with various books for studying in it which was more an inconvenience than anything else...

 

The worst thing was i left my wallet in the car and that got nicked... all my cards and driving licence were in there so im still a bit worried with somebody using my driving licence and so on... yes, i know silly to leave my wallet but i got home late about 10pm been working all day and just was so tired i left all my stuff in the car.

 

This all happened on the one night I decided to leave my car off the drive. Now this is the bit that really sucks... im not sure if my car locked when i pushed the button the night before all this happened... i could of sworn i did but maybe not...

 

So yeah no alarms went off or anything im guessing it was open, although im pretty religeous when it comes to locking my car but obviously i must not have because no alarm went off. :bang:

 

So yeah... all my fault I guess! BUT just incase reported everything to police the next morn.

 

The next thing is my wheels are not coated in VERY thick brake dust that will not budge after putting so many different types of wheel cleaners on them for example... Autoglym wheel cleaner, Nano Xtreme Wheel Cleaner, Halfords Advanced Wheel Cleaner. I still have big great horrible black parts along the spokes of the rays, i fear its so bad ill have to refurb, although the rears clean up fine.

 

Im not sure what the reason is for this, perhaps its the fact im using Performance friction pads... 01 compound up front and z on rear.

These from the install have been very stubborn when cleaning weekly, admittedly I have neglected my car of late and as a result didn't clean the car for a month... now i have these really bad deposits on the wheels which i will post some pics up of soon.

(only thing i can see getting this stuff off is wire wool) :scare:

 

These pads also have been squeaking so loud i dont want to drive the Z anymore its completely ruined my experience of driving the Z, ever since having them on ive been using engine braking alot more to slow the car down than brakes as one tap of the brakes results in a squeak and after 4 or 5 normal applications of the brake i get a horrifiying squeak (the anti squeal shims not on the back of these pf pads) perhaps because of my engine braking i have caused my next problem....

 

Now i know the Z gearbox is notchy when changing gears but when warm 2nd is still clanking 90% of the time, and when downshifting to 1st (its very resistant to go in, and when it does it makes a whirring as if the 1st gear is engaged already but i havnt even let the clutch up... i fear i will need a new box) This is only when moving though, all other gears when clutch down moving at any speed go in fine and don't whirr. The whirr is kind of like you just lifting the clutch up at high speed to a lower gear and you get a whirring as the car matches up with the revs if that makes sense :bangin:

 

oh and how can I forget somebody scraped my rear bumper while my car was parked and drove off so I had to get a total rear bumper respray for 200... I parked the car in a bay along the side of the road on the end one as far away as possible (within the lines) from any other car.

 

Good news i have an extended warranty but bad news is i need to service the car im over by like 1000 miles and havnt got round to booking it in.

 

if i remember correctly im at 22.5k last service was a p1 and one before that was a p1 also. So im probably looking at a p3 because my car is an 06?

 

Sorry for such a long post I just really have been tied up lately and wanted to get this all out of my system!

 

I have missed the forum :D And most of all, i just want my Z back to how it was... :thumbdown:

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Hey that's a nasty list of bad times, feel for you matey. I hope nothing occurs with the theft of your wallet and fraud etc.

 

Regarding your Rays I have EXACTLY the same problem. The wheels are caked in brake dust which has eaten into the wheel. I won't be using performance friction again that's for sure. Unless it's some kind of reaction that occurs with Rays only. And yes my issue is at the front only as well. I have no solution either so will refurb some time in the future.

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Hey that's a nasty list of bad times, feel for you matey. I hope nothing occurs with the theft of your wallet and fraud etc.

 

Regarding your Rays I have EXACTLY the same problem. The wheels are caked in brake dust which has eaten into the wheel. I won't be using performance friction again that's for sure. Unless it's some kind of reaction that occurs with Rays only. And yes my issue is at the front only as well. I have no solution either so will refurb some time in the future.

 

Thanks mate.

Do you get squeaking aswell?

I will NEVER use these pads again they have totally ruined my Z :thumbdown: unless there is some reasonable explanation?

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I suffered squealing For quite some time especially in warmer weather although through winter it's not been too bad. I've been using Z compound. I copper greased my pads 3 times in hope it removed squeeling but to no avail. I'll be changing to ferrodo next time me thinks.

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Are the Z's the track related pads? Most if not all track related pads will squeal badly on the road because you are simply not getting them hot enough.

 

With DS2500, you need to break them in properly (like proper cooking/smoking hot) to get good transfer of pad material to the disc. This will stop the squealing. However, due to the way that the pads work, this material will wear off over time if you dont get the discs hot periodically. They use 2 ways to stop the car, one is the resin which is transfered to the discs. The other is mechanical, metal filings, in the pads dig into the surface. This will wear off the resin if you do not get the discs and pads hot enough frequently enough and you will get squealing. If you bed them in again, you will get rid of it as you have a coating of the resin on there again. Hope that makes sense :thumbs:

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Are the Z's the track related pads? Most if not all track related pads will squeal badly on the road because you are simply not getting them hot enough.

 

With DS2500, you need to break them in properly (like proper cooking/smoking hot) to get good transfer of pad material to the disc. This will stop the squealing. However, due to the way that the pads work, this material will wear off over time if you dont get the discs hot periodically. They use 2 ways to stop the car, one is the resin which is transfered to the discs. The other is mechanical, metal filings, in the pads dig into the surface. This will wear off the resin if you do not get the discs and pads hot enough frequently enough and you will get squealing. If you bed them in again, you will get rid of it as you have a coating of the resin on there again. Hope that makes sense :thumbs:

 

Ive gone down the motorway at 70ish various times giving them extreme braking late at night in fustration, the more i use them, the louder they get, the hotter the brakes are the louder the squeal, and once hot enough... this happens... i just took this video 30 mins ago.

 

And i bed these pads in using Zmanalex's braking in guide

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JFCUzfdZEA

 

Plus... I never used to have a lip on my dics and after just getting in and checking the dics i have noticed they have a lip on them now.

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The PF pads don't squeal at all if bedded in properly: I ran them on my old car and there was no noise at all. Bed them in again properly and they should be fine, maybe take them out and put some copper grease on the back again too.

 

As for wheel cleaning, get something decent from Tim at Envy: I've just started using the Espuma Revolution and it's fantastic stuff, a billion times better than the crap you can buy in Halfrauds although you need to be respectful with it.

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Hi there, sorry to hear all the crap you recently had to go through,not sure what's wrong with your brakes , but when it come to all of those things ruining the z experience...... don't let it get it to you, give her some tlc, a good wash and wax and go for a nice drive, soon the season will start again and you'll be :teeth:

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dont shift to first unless you are completely stationary, the synchros just dont like it in the zed at and kind of speed. besides there is really no need to be in first other than moving off anyway, its a torquey enough engine to use 2nd everywhere.

 

the only way to smoothly shift down to first if you really really wanted to would be to double clutch. clutch down, take out of gear, clutch up, blip throttle to spin up engine AND gearbox to correct rpm, clutch down, select gear, clutch up. makes an exceptionally smooth downshift when done correclty, it removes that lurch where the transmission plays catch up with the wheels and engine. also and most importantly it saves your synchro from taking the heat doing this.

 

avoid block shifting, this takes its toll on synchros too. ideally shift through the box like a sequential shifter does.

 

don't lean on the gear stick to force a gear in, you are basically leaning on the synchro ring forcing it to match the speeds quicker than it is able. all this does is heat it up and burn it out. If it doesn't feel like its going to go in, you are selecting the wrong gear for the job or your revs arent matched correctly. on the same principle dont hover on the edge of a gear just before it goes in, you might be able to hear a whine at this point, that's the synchros, and you're going to break them.

 

Get some good oil in the gearbox too, that can make a difference in the wear, also changing it can flush out swarf etc.

 

 

hope that helps

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Have you tried wonderwheels, its corrosive and wouldn't use it ordinarily but if it doesn't shift the muck then nothing will.

R

 

Thanks for the advice, i have heard bad stuff about it, but ill talk to envy and see what they say first, if no luck wonder wheels it is then!

 

if they are sqweeking when not breaking its possible your claipers arent releasing fully.

are the wheels hot when you park up?

 

do you mean the discs? the dics are v hot as for the wheels i dont think so but next time i drive her ill be sure to check! if the calipers arnt releasing fully what's the solution? By the way i get a very strange sqeaking/squarking somtimes that sounds like its somthing more than just brake squeal, cant explain it!

 

dont shift to first unless you are completely stationary, the synchros just dont like it in the zed at and kind of speed. besides there is really no need to be in first other than moving off anyway, its a torquey enough engine to use 2nd everywhere.

 

the only way to smoothly shift down to first if you really really wanted to would be to double clutch. clutch down, take out of gear, clutch up, blip throttle to spin up engine AND gearbox to correct rpm, clutch down, select gear, clutch up. makes an exceptionally smooth downshift when done correclty, it removes that lurch where the transmission plays catch up with the wheels and engine. also and most importantly it saves your synchro from taking the heat doing this.

 

avoid block shifting, this takes its toll on synchros too. ideally shift through the box like a sequential shifter does.

 

don't lean on the gear stick to force a gear in, you are basically leaning on the synchro ring forcing it to match the speeds quicker than it is able. all this does is heat it up and burn it out. If it doesn't feel like its going to go in, you are selecting the wrong gear for the job or your revs arent matched correctly. on the same principle dont hover on the edge of a gear just before it goes in, you might be able to hear a whine at this point, that's the synchros, and you're going to break them.

 

Get some good oil in the gearbox too, that can make a difference in the wear, also changing it can flush out swarf etc.

 

hope that helps

 

Thanks husky for the advice, i get what you mean with the first gear, i always blip when down shifting though, its like second nature now :D the only problem is when i use engine braking im scared people behind will go flying in to me as almost 99% of the time people are always too close!

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i use double clutching and engine braking all the time never had anyone go in to the back of me,

 

as for my earlier comment, if the calipers are sticking the heat will transfer far quicker into things like the wheels, if the wheels are hot it means something is producing large amounts of heat and using the wheesl to disipate it.

 

if the claiper is sticking it mught need refurbing, or if its intermittent it might be a warped disc. thsi can be skimmed or replaced.

 

my first port of call would be dismantle and re copper grease then properly go and bed them in.

 

also if the discs arent up to the standard of the pads it could be the eak link; i've heard of people running the EBC turgo grooves and one track day saw them warp and crack. if you drive hard you might actually need brakes that will handle it.

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:scare: fecking robbers.

:scare: that squeel sound like your driving a shed, feel for you!

:scare: STOP washing the wheels with water every day!

 

Bed the pads in properly...

 

Shifts, I'd take husky's advice on that... I never use first unless stationary and moving off... you can move off in second no problems without riding the clutch. I find my oil (redline) crap in the box, have some nissan stuff and some putty going into it for this season! :D

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Been using Performance friction discs with ENDLESS pads, no squeal, and I pootle all week, all day!! ;)

 

The next thing is my wheels are not coated in VERY thick brake dust that will not budge after putting so many different types of wheel cleaners on them for example... Autoglym wheel cleaner, Nano Xtreme Wheel Cleaner, Halfords Advanced Wheel Cleaner. I still have big great horrible black parts along the spokes of the rays, i fear its so bad ill have to refurb, although the rears clean up fine.

 

Since getting my RAYS I have kept them clean every otherday if car is used, no probs with corrosion, brake dust pitting etc.

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