Coilovers

[garygttdi]

Hi all this may appear a stupid question and apologise to those whom grown on reading it. I have a standard 350Z fairlady with Sparco NS-06 over size (width alloys). If I change the suspension to a performance system what benefit can I expect to see? I certainly do not want to spoil the ride by making it too stiff ?

[Neilp]

You'll only benefit on the track. Best. Just go for lowering springs such as eibach. Coilovers are alot of cash for a good set and very hard ride when hitting potholes etc. When on the roads mines bang alot when hitting bumps, purely because they are not designed for road driving.

[Ekona]

You already have coilovers at the front anyway, and even if you change suspension you'll still only have coilovers at the front.

 

Coilover = The spring (coil) sits over the damper. The stock system is like this.

[ZMANALEX]

A good adjustable coilover kit, set up correctly will be fine for the road.

 

You have the benefits of adjusting your ride height to suit the types of roads that you are regularly on ie speed humps etc.

 

You can also adjust the quality of the ride by adjusting the bump (compression) and also the rebound.

 

I have in stock numerous such kits as above including a brand new HKS RS kit which features HKS' trademark 30-way dampening and rebound adjustibility that is adjusted simultaneously for easy tuning.

 

I also carry in stock the Eibach Pro Kit - Sportline lowering spring kit that Neil refers which will give you a drop of 30mm all round.

 

If you wish to discuss this further or just require more information then just drop me a pm.

 

Alex.

[ZMANALEX]

You'll only benefit on the track. Best. Just go for lowering springs such as eibach. Coilovers are alot of cash for a good set and very hard ride when hitting potholes etc. When on the roads mines bang alot when hitting bumps, purely because they are not designed for road driving.

 

 

Neil, sorry mate but I have got to disagree with you.

 

Most adjustable coil over kits are good for road and track because of the versatility of the adjustments.

 

In your case with your KW3 set up, all that is required is a bit of adjustment and fine tuning on the compression and rebound.

 

Also remember that you have dropped considerably and you have not had your geometry set up properly, so your toe, castor and camber will be all over the place which is not conducive with good ride quality or good handling characteristics.

 

Alex.

[Neilp]

The eibach kit is pretty low I must add. I did struggle daily with regards to getting over speed bumps etc so maybe adjustable coilovers are the way to go. Theres more bills along side any of these options as camber arms and toebolts are require to set up geometry correctly. I'm currently saving up for these as they are expensive. I ran eibachs on my car and got 19k out rears and 24k out front tyres. Alot more wearing on inner edge though.

 

You posted while I was writing this.

 

Edit: for someone who isn't going to track, all the adjustment is a pain in the arse. I don't mind it due to the fact I wanna track the car often.

 

You are the man in the know.

But If I wasn't gonna track I'd be very disappointed with all the money required and adjustments needed to get it comfortable. I found standard shocks with eibachs were a decent balance for day to day. After my car is set up correctly for the track I think it will be awful for road driving.

[ZMANALEX]

The eibach kit is pretty low I must add. I did struggle daily with regards to getting over speed bumps etc so maybe adjustable coilovers are the way to go. Theres more bills along side any of these options as camber arms and toebolts are require to set up geometry correctly. I'm currently saving up for these as they are expensive. I ran eibachs on my car and got 19k out rears and 24k out front tyres. Alot more wearing on inner edge though.

 

You posted while I was writing this.

 

Edit: for someone who isn't going to track, all the adjustment is a pain in the arse. I don't mind it due to the fact I wanna track the car often.

 

You are the man in the know.

But If I wasn't gonna track I'd be very disappointed with all the money required and adjustments needed to get it comfortable. I found standard shocks with eibachs were a decent balance for day to day. After my car is set up correctly for the track I think it will be awful for road driving.

 

Neil you CAN get it comfortable with fine tuning to the Compression and Rebound.

 

Camber and toe kits are also only required if your drop is excessive. If you went for a moderate drop (say 20mm) then there is sufficient adjustment on the the rear camber and toe to compensate for this and the front camber will still be within factory recommended tollerences, so expensive aftermarket camber and toe kits are not always required.

 

Regarding the set up for your car, I can assure you that a compromise can be reached to give you the ride comfort that you are looking for when on track and road.

However adjustment is very easy on the KW3 and only takes minutes to adjust the compression and rebound.

 

Alex.

[Neilp]

The eibach kit is pretty low I must add. I did struggle daily with regards to getting over speed bumps etc so maybe adjustable coilovers are the way to go. Theres more bills along side any of these options as camber arms and toebolts are require to set up geometry correctly. I'm currently saving up for these as they are expensive. I ran eibachs on my car and got 19k out rears and 24k out front tyres. Alot more wearing on inner edge though.

 

You posted while I was writing this.

 

Edit: for someone who isn't going to track, all the adjustment is a pain in the arse. I don't mind it due to the fact I wanna track the car often.

 

You are the man in the know.

But If I wasn't gonna track I'd be very disappointed with all the money required and adjustments needed to get it comfortable. I found standard shocks with eibachs were a decent balance for day to day. After my car is set up correctly for the track I think it will be awful for road driving.

 

Neil you CAN get it comfortable with fine tuning to the Compression and Rebound.

 

Camber and toe kits are also only required if your drop is excessive. If you went for a moderate drop (say 20mm) then there is sufficient adjustment on the the rear camber and toe to compensate for this and the front camber will still be within factory recommended tollerences, so expensive aftermarket camber and toe kits are not always required.

 

Regarding the set up for your car, I can assure you that a compromise can be reached to give you the ride comfort that you are looking for when on track and road.

However adjustment is very easy on the KW3 and only takes minutes to adjust the compression and rebound.

 

Alex.

I'm gonna hold you to that lol I can see you getting landed with my car for a few hours to set it up lol

[M13KYF]

do it

[garygttdi]

OK then this is why I was asking (had coilovers with adjustable shocks on my Subaru) think for road use the car was fine on standard stuff.

 

Pulled out of a up hill tea junction, surface wet and had driven through mud about 4 miles back. Gave the car some beans , was out of control first the back fish tailed then the front went all light, some of this could have been due to the hill but I have never known a car do that. Needles to say I had to go home and change my underwear.

 

275 on the back and 250 on the front with Dunlop rubber, not the best but that’s what it came with.

 

Any thoughts on what I need to do, laser alignment, tyre pressures, change rubber ?

 

Sort of lost my confidence with it now!!!

[Ian]

Are you familiar with the concept of rwd?

[Darren-B]

The eibach kit is pretty low I must add. I did struggle daily with regards to getting over speed bumps etc so maybe adjustable coilovers are the way to go. Theres more bills along side any of these options as camber arms and toebolts are require to set up geometry correctly. I'm currently saving up for these as they are expensive. I ran eibachs on my car and got 19k out rears and 24k out front tyres. Alot more wearing on inner edge though.

 

You posted while I was writing this.

 

Edit: for someone who isn't going to track, all the adjustment is a pain in the arse. I don't mind it due to the fact I wanna track the car often.

 

You are the man in the know.

But If I wasn't gonna track I'd be very disappointed with all the money required and adjustments needed to get it comfortable. I found standard shocks with eibachs were a decent balance for day to day. After my car is set up correctly for the track I think it will be awful for road driving.

 

Neil you CAN get it comfortable with fine tuning to the Compression and Rebound.

 

Camber and toe kits are also only required if your drop is excessive. If you went for a moderate drop (say 20mm) then there is sufficient adjustment on the the rear camber and toe to compensate for this and the front camber will still be within factory recommended tollerences, so expensive aftermarket camber and toe kits are not always required.

 

Regarding the set up for your car, I can assure you that a compromise can be reached to give you the ride comfort that you are looking for when on track and road.

However adjustment is very easy on the KW3 and only takes minutes to adjust the compression and rebound.

 

Alex.

 

I run adjustable coilovers on my sc mx5, after finding my ideal ride height (just high enough to get over the usual speed bumps) got the alignment sorted then went about setting the compression & rebound settings. I now have 3 settings I use, Wet roads/cruising Dry/fast road & a balls out track setting simples

[Neilp]

OK then this is why I was asking (had coilovers with adjustable shocks on my Subaru) think for road use the car was fine on standard stuff.

 

Pulled out of a up hill tea junction, surface wet and had driven through mud about 4 miles back. Gave the car some beans , was out of control first the back fish tailed then the front went all light, some of this could have been due to the hill but I have never known a car do that. Needles to say I had to go home and change my underwear.

 

275 on the back and 250 on the front with Dunlop rubber, not the best but that’s what it came with.

 

Any thoughts on what I need to do, laser alignment, tyre pressures, change rubber ?

 

Sort of lost my confidence with it now!!!

 

Your having no luck with this car.

Firstly you've got to remember all the power on the rear. Secondly the roads are greasy due to salt/grit and dampness.

 

Could be down to the Tyres but all you need is a lighter foot driving rwd in winter is eventful no matter the car. Everyone on here has these sort of issues but alter there driving style to suit. Buy a throttle controller and set to sp1 it was slow the throttle response in turn making the car less aggressive to drive

[Darren-B]

 

Buy a throttle controller and set to sp1 it was slow the throttle response in turn making the car less aggressive to drive

 

The SPORT settings will make it more aggressive you will want the ECONOMY setting. which wont help much as if you floor the throttle you still get full power.

 

I think Gary needs to just chill a little & respect the car a bit more. Ive been driving powerful RWDs for years now & never manage to have the tail let go on me without my full consent the zed is the first with ESP & TC which can make people lazy

 

If your not confident with your own car you should get yourself on a driver training course of some sort.

[Neilp]

Sorry I don't own one and assumed sp1 would be the lower setting. I did mean the economy setting though. But yeah less aggressive driving style is needed, it's not a 4wd point and go car

[Darren-B]

Haha I know what you mean, There a waste of money IMO

[MattG]

275 on the back and 250 on the front with Dunlop rubber, not the best but that’s what it came with.

 

Are they Dunlop SP9000s? They were fitted to mine when I got it and they were shite in wet conditions! I had the car stepping out on me on roundabouts at sub 30mph speeds in the wet. A mate of mine has them on his BMW 320CI and has experienced exactly the same twichy wet weather behaviour. I swapped them for some Falken FK452s and problem solved.

[garygttdi]

Think it may be me, I have largely grown up on front wheel drive or 4, last car was a 305 bhp Subaru and I could just nail that and it just took off, to be fair the 4 wheel drive was doing much of the saving I suspect. My day car is a MK 6 Golf GTD with 170 bhp and front wheel drive. So I really struggle going from diesel to petrol and different drive configuration. Still think I need to get a full geometry check. Had an imported MR2 Turbo years back and after destroying a set of SO2s in 2K miles found all the wheels pointing in any direction but the correct ones. I think out friends in Japan stick over size alloys on and never bother with adjusting the geometry.