andlid Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 Actually managed to get 2.10h to do some work on the car today! Managed to get the rear suspension flipped around and fitted with the rubbers, think I used the set I got from Lee, not sure have a spare set now while I was there I lowered her (think I went a bit to low... used a 'snus' lid (google snus, images and you'll know what I'm talking about) and adjusted that towars maximum lowering, also fitted the RAYS' rear. Need spacers now Some photos and description in the next post...oh yeah, fixed my battery drain problem too, will update here and there regarding that, in short "all" good. Emptied out the oil catch can too, not impressed there is already oil in it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 What's you guys BEST way of getting the Z off the ground? always bothers me to actually securely get it up and managed to get it there. What I do is use a wodden block on a car jack, if I want the rear up I stick it at the front and pump it up as high as I dare to go stick the car stand on the rear jack point, lower car job done. It's just hard to get it high enough I think and it's always taking longer then I want it to take... any ideas on how you do it ? tried looking under the rear for another area to stick the hydralic jack so I could do both sides at once but didnt really spot any... I looked at this www for some info on how best tackle this job: http://www.bcracing-na.com/G37install.htm Anyway, once up tools out! Here are the tools I used for this ^ ^ what it used to look like... Took the wheel off, then went to work with jacking up the spring bottom place with the Z jack and two wooden blocks under it to get it high enough up, put some pressure on the spring and then started taking off the bolt, used two wrench's nr 17 for this, took the bolt off and then continued to un-wrench the other side.(found it easier to do this rather then mallet it out) slowly lowered the jack once the bolt was out and once it the spring was out I just took away the jack. Look at the state of the old install took the suspension out and looked if there was any damaged done, none so thats good. How the guy decided to fit it this way is beyond me, anyway. took out the top rubber and stuck the former lower one in there it's an easy twist install once in place I took the spring and flipped it upside down and then fitte the new lower rubber bushing. (see below) looking down where the spring lower is going to sit, sweet it only fits one way *my lucky star! Once in place I used the jack to get the spring tension back, THEN I decided wha tthe heck lets just get the car lowered while I'm at it...and fit the rear brakes. So I started lowering the car with moving the two rings upwards. I decided for unknown reasons to use a snus lid to measure how far from the lowest setting I wanted, once happy I tightened the lock ring. I used this to get the hole centered *below I had a look at the link posted above from the install of BC coils and noted the way to keep the springs under tension with the read below: "Once spring assembly is completed, you’ll need to measure shock distance. You will want a bit of load from the jack on the spring arm. This will raise the hub just a bit. Make sure the springs aren’t loose. Reach in and assure there is no play. Next step is to assure the shocks lower bracket is roughly 1/8-1/4 inch shorter." I had a look at this and noted that AFTER I lowered the car this was roughly ok, so it wasnt OK before... anyway up and onwards, went on attack on the rear pads. my phone rebooted while takign photos so guess it didnt save the once I took of the actual pads, anyway they're BLUE EBC (new ones) that I wanted to see how they kept up around track (prolly not but not an expensive misstake if it'll be) they come with shims that you 'glue' on the back so thats handy compared to the half ones that sat there. I start by pulling out the two metal yokes (can't remember what they are called) with a plier, then pull out the metal bar, be aware that the metal shim holding down the pads might fling off . Pull the pads against the calipers to push the pistons back inside the caliper to make room for the more meaty new pads, then pull them out, note what type of pads goes where (they're different) then I stick my fat fingers in and push the cylinders back all the way in to make for an easier install. Stick in the pads and start with pushing one of the metal bars back in with the metal shim under it, hold down the other side with your finger while pushing in the other bar. Push the metal yokes back in to hold it all in place, done. take a photo and throw the wheel back on (put one of my in need of refurb ray's on). Job done... some photos of above: BEFORE AFTER FRONTneeds doing now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 About time!!!!! Nice one mate looking good Now you need some nice new disks and what are you doing running standard brakes with 500 hp ?? Brave man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 Battery findings: Did my battery drain troubleshooting today, found out that the problem is the bloody boost controller here is what I did, stuck the newly freshly charged battery in, took my multimeter (Draper with 10A DC setting) and stuck it in parralell on the ground side of the battery (-) So with the booster plug out the display shown below : Plug into the boost controller: Took it back out and the multimeter now loooking like it's 0 Plugged back in the boost controller and ... Ok, so we know it's draining but is that a bad drain? Wouldn't think so... and not sure if it's 'loading' up and then will stop the drain, checked all the doors boot and lights intenrally etc and couldnt find any other peek in drainage. Ok, dropped it and went on to check the alternator. before car was started: When car started so all good there This is the meter from inside when turning the key currently: So ... is it the boost controlelr causing it to run down completely? Left it unplugged now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 About time!!!!! Nice one mate looking good Now you need some nice new disks and what are you doing running standard brakes with 500 hp ?? Brave man Just need to take it handy coming into corners, 500hp is good for exit acceleration need to take it handy delivering that power too with those tyres they're in a bad state too so need refurb or get another full set of something else tasty and get these ones DIY refurbed and slicks stuck on... still in two minds what to do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Andy your boost graph looks just like mine, Yours is more stable but seams to drop boost off mor at the upper rev range. My car peaks about 0.8 drops to 0.7 midrange and then runs back to about 0.8 at the rpm limit. Your AFR looks far more stable and a lot richer than mine too! Im needing to retune to target 11.5AFR as my current dyno's show 11.8 at red line and running a little lean for my liking. Nice one mate! Tim, You car is spot on re AFR, remember Anlid is runnign 95 octane fuel so it needs running richer than a car tuned on 98 octane fuel. Also the dyno plot is only for infomation how many times do you drive full throttle from 1500 rpm to 6500rpm , never I should think. must of the time you shift at 6500rpm the revs dropp to around 4500/5000rpm then you back on full throttle. I have never had the Uprev datalogs from you Tim so I cant speak on this lean spot you have spoken about? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 Quick update (no photos, yesterday was one of the worst rainy days that I can remember...) Decided against my better judgement to get out and sort the front out on the car and get a blanking plug into my sandwich plate (that was using the water sensor...) I got four blanks (good that I did). So raised the front up and lowered the car, tried it a few times to get the front lower then the rear, think I might have upset the pre-load of the spring on the BC coils on the front right, need to find out how to set that back up again). So after 3 attempts up/down wheel on/off I think I got a decent height on the front compared to rear. Did the other side (it's pretty straight forward on the BC to lower the fronts, release the bottom lock nut and off you got left ot lower and right to increase riding height. That was the easy part done, under had to get in under the car and replace the water sensor to a blanking nut had got four ones so happy days if I drop one or two while under there. First off to get the sensor off in the first place proved pretty hard, couldn't get to it properly to twist it around so had to use the wire's themselves to twist them around (once I got it loose enough) this then in turn put a turning pressure on the bolt... a good while later I had it out and a nice trickle of oil now started coming out . Took the blank and an allen key, tried at least 30 min to get it to thread while slowly turning the allen key... didn't work... (meanwhile it's bucketing down... getting rain in my ear channel while lying there trying to concentrate)... managed to get my 'master wrench' kit together that can use a bit with rapid action! god save halfrauds! "Halfords Professional 33 piece Metric Ratchet Spanner Set" > so with this at hand I used that and put a finger at the nut to get the 'rapid action' working, slowly turned turned turned, finally go thread and it's on! wohoo! Then hear a 'click' sound while tightening it... sat there for 5 min considering what to do, out with the blank and looked at it, cracked took another one, dropped it 3rd one lucky... tightened it happy days it's there tight enough and didn't get wrecked then notice it's not flush fubared threads?! looked at it for another 5-10 min... different angles, finally relalised the plate itself is curved so it's "ok" that it's not flush against it stuck it all back an lead the wires for the oil sensor to the battery compartment, called it quits. Might go down the road of replacing the whole plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 think I need to redo the blanking plate... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Ahh happy days - what fun can be had laying on ya back with oil n water driping on you trying to thread a bolt blind. My advice Man Up and get it sorted O and good luck BTW let me know how you get on with the sensor in the plate may move mine as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 big box arrived goodies! If just this bucketing rain could please stop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 Quick FYI how to set preload on the BC coilovers: Unlock the top collar (screwing the lower of the two rings to the right with the coil tool) Let the top collar down until the spring is at it's full lenght (free) re-tighten about 3mm, apply the lock collar. Job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 was out yesterday sorting out my catch can setup, not having a zed shed it's ghetto flash light hanging from the bonnet instead Anyway had to take off the intake plenum, air pipes and strut to get to the pipes properly. Managed nicely but some of the clips where not proper jubile clips so had to mess around a but and get some more today. Finally something sorted again, also noted that most of the bolts on the plenum where WAY to loose I blanked off the outake of the plenum as described for the arc setup. Will wait and see if that'll hold, used the old plug that was there for the pvc valve, will get a proper bolt later on, with nice teflon tape (love that stuff now) That was all for yesterday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 Right so came home from work to find a anpost delivery notice, off to the postoffice, guessed correctly its my two new sensors with npt threads! :hat: So now when I had NPT in the plate and sensors with NPT I figured that I'd stick it on. So out with the teflon tape. Decided to plug the two holes to on the side of the plate, these wouldn't get the sensor in deep enough, decided to go with the lower left one instead (hoping this setup will actually fit under the car, will see tomorrow). The new sensor look a bit cheap compared to the defi's, guess that's to expect for the price I paid for them ,will see how they do. They came with connectors for the cable going to the defi controller. Decided they're not good enough for the location of the oil sensor, so cut them and soldered them together to my cabling that'll be routed to the defi unit. pics below! (hope I did the teflon part ok, the bolts aren't going to move or leak (hoping the latter) Thanks for now. bolts compared getting ready, the tape was to wide so had to be cut in half sorted! I hope that looks ok? Bolt in left hand and thread on clockwise, so they said :hat: as snug as it gets, didnt dare to tighten it more... test fitted the sensor, looking good. before done! fitted! hard to see but it's perfect! cables ready! prefer to do it 50% in and then twist the cables to each side twisted! nicely melted sodder (is that what it's called?) all out with the shrink tubing! 8) Tomorrow this will be fitted, keep fingers crossed this will work. ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 Looking good mate You should get a good oil flow tem reading now - be intrested to see what it runs at on the 11th Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted November 5, 2011 Author Share Posted November 5, 2011 Looking good mate You should get a good oil flow tem reading now - be intrested to see what it runs at on the 11th if it fits like that (and no leaks!, and starts after me modding around in the engine bay, oh and if the battery aint dead) thanks dude.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted November 5, 2011 Author Share Posted November 5, 2011 40min allocation today this morningsaw it all go on without a glitch. Ol d plate in a state. No teflon tape used at all, more later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 40min allocation today this morningsaw it all go on without a glitch. Ol d plate in a state. No teflon tape used at all, more later Mate stop thinking of it as things done badly and think of it as things you are improving Besides look at all the fun you have with your flashlight in the rain better than Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted November 5, 2011 Author Share Posted November 5, 2011 Not worth the grief I'm getting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted November 6, 2011 Author Share Posted November 6, 2011 she Finally got to take her out, had forgot how low I made her No leaks and pulls like a train, http://lh3.ggpht.com/-3MxkBMB6vxo/TrbRr ... .12.30.jpg Tomorrow she will be driven to tdp for some work. Can't wait for friday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted November 13, 2011 Author Share Posted November 13, 2011 Well spent a few deserved €€€ in tdp on the poor litte car, they did a big ammount of work. 1, fixed a t-piece that had it's leg of the T cut and welded together to make an extension for a rad overflow pipe (well nicely hidden too, what are people like) 2, fixed coolant leeking rear bottom of engine (no clips used) 3, fixed suspension setup and installed the rear adjusters 4, fixed switched power for the boost controller (no more battery drain ) 5, re-installed shady install of the oil cooler, looks nice now! 6, probably forgot something else they did but car drove VERY NICELY toooo... THE TRACK! Went down to Mondello and joined OTD 10 (last run of the year I think), rain was absolutely shockingly bad for my tyres and power well enjoyed it though and ment I had some nice time to get used to the car and new setup. The afternoon dried up a bit but had a few danger spots on track so kept it handy (wheel spin in 3rd and 4th on some places ) Really enjoyed it! Did spot (and was warned by Robbie the tuner in TDP to keep an eye on the water temp). I'd never seen the gauge in the car go up to more then a notch under half... but the haltech sensor was reporting 100C at that stage! (crappy gauge in the Z!) I've been looking at some logs from the Haltech and it's not looking to good, need to get investing in some serious cooler setup for next year (it did mean I had to take it easy around track now and then and run some cooldowns, hope that didnt annoy to many other trackgoers) anyway vids and photos! Wet first start: Last session I did before starting to run to low on petrol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 More goodies ordered: New 50mm radiator and 2x10" slim fans (to be controlled with the haltech (hopefully) Haltech I/O box (to plug in the O2 sensors and Oil temp among other goodies) (http://www.haltech.com/index.php/produc ... xpander-12) , will be sticking my defi kit up for sale (pm if interested) 1000cc ID injectors Dynosty FRS (will be interesting to see what this is...) O2 Widebands + controller box Forged actuators with red spring (should see 12-14psi base boost up to 18-19 with BC) Finally also ordered a Mini-ITX case for my miniputer install, all the gauges will be seen on the 7" lilliput screen instead of going down gauges on the A pillar etc. Think that's it! Still to order/get: Bushes for the ARB's Time to fit this.. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Nice work as usually Anders It was always going to be problem solving along the line until evrything is perfect for years of safe enjoyment you know Did you get the Pathfinder cooling upgrade mod when you were building the engine? cheap and good for cooling of the rear compartment. see: http://www.amsmotorsports.com/shop/ind/ ... grade.html I would also consider a nismo or mishimoto thermostat; cheap insurance Leaving out a larger radiator was an oversight Make sure you get some decent coolant like Motul inugel when installing your rad. Though not related to your temp issues at some point you will probably go for larger wheels/tyres for more traction so a PAS cooler upgrade will be needed. A nismo upgrade cooler or even the GTR cooler(Tube and fin like the OEM or Nismo but much longer with more fins. Should fit bolt on.) will be better and cheaper than the often sold plate and fin type coolers like Stillen's etc which stress the PAS pump further as there is more flow resistance accross the plates. Pm me about the guages and pics of what you have. Maybe interested . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 Nice work as usually Anders It was always going to be problem solving along the line until evrything is perfect for years of safe enjoyment you know Did you get the Pathfinder cooling upgrade mod when you were building the engine? cheap and good for cooling of the rear compartment. see: http://www.amsmotorsports.com/shop/ind/ ... grade.html I would also consider a nismo or mishimoto thermostat; cheap insurance Leaving out a larger radiator was an oversight Make sure you get some decent coolant like Motul inugel when installing your rad. Though not related to your temp issues at some point you will probably go for larger wheels/tyres for more traction so a PAS cooler upgrade will be needed. A nismo upgrade cooler or even the GTR cooler(Tube and fin like the OEM or Nismo but much longer with more fins. Should fit bolt on.) will be better and cheaper than the often sold plate and fin type coolers like Stillen's etc which stress the PAS pump further as there is more flow resistance accross the plates. Pm me about the guages and pics of what you have. Maybe interested . I didn't go down the pathfinder upgrade, not seen enough people using it to be honest. Don't think I'll need it to be honest. I'm getting a custom svirl tank once done. Thermostat, wouldn't get a mishimoto but possible a nismo. Will see how I get on with the current upgrade. Might even take out the thermostat all together. (need to monitor the temps before I decide) Didn't leave anything out really. The project had to stop and if I'd got a bigger rad I'd probably have to redo it myself now anyway (had serious issues with the guy fitting the stuff). with the PAS you're talking about a diff cooler? Not sure that I'll need it to be honest, been told it might be enough with directing air to it or as you say just get the fin backplate type. I'll pm you some pics of the defi's during the week. This will epic once completed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Mcgoo Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 PAS = Power Assisted Steering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 PAS = Power Assisted Steering no... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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