Any advice about hiding stone chips on Kuro

[matty316]

Anybody got any tips how to hide my stone chips, i've got most of Autoglym's products and they do a great job just pisses me off seeing the stone chips.

 

Cheers

[jollyranchers]

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... hp?t=64486

 

http://www.drcolorchip.com/

 

if your using autoglym super resin polish as the polish is white this gets into your stone chips

and i find can stay there when you buff off and can make the chips stand out more.

 

I use poorboys black hole , the actual fluid is black so fills in the stone chips to some degree , also better than srp for filling light swirls

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Poorboys-Black-Ho ... 80fffee102

 

dr chips is the only way to go for touch in's i find , much better than dabbing the chips with a touch up brush.

 

If you have a touch up pen , try using a cocktail stick instead of brush its more accurate !

[matty316]

I've got the poorboy's black hole and yeah it does hide some of the chips. I'll give that dr chips ago. Cheers mate

[UNABASHED]

[scubapics]

Yes. I've done this on my Kuro. This is what you need:

 

1 BMW black touch up paint - halfords (it's the blackest paint you can get apparantly)

1 sheet of 1500 wet and dry paper - halfords

1 tube of Meguiars Scratch X 2.0 - halfords

Polishing cloths - oh, yeah, halfords.

1 pack of cocktail sticks - ah, supermarket ;-)

 

1. Clean the area.

2. Dip the cocktail stick in the paint. You don't want a lot, you don't want it dripping off the stick. Just a tiny blob. You will probably need to wipe most off the stick back into the touch up tube.

3. I place a cloth on the paint work, rest my left hand/arm on it and then put my right hand onto the left arm. It makes a very steady platform and gives accurate results. You then move your hand at the wrist up and down to position the stick onto the stone chip.

4. Touch the stick in the stone chip and let the paint flow into it. You want the filled spot to be proud of the old paint. Repeat as necessary to get the new paint just above the surface of the old paint.

5. Leave it a week to harden. Yes a week otherwise when you come to polish it you will just remove all the fresh paint and be back to square one.

6. Then using a small section of the 1500 wet and dry (not much wider than your finger and about twice the length of your end section of your finger) and some water gently flatten the filled chips. Work in straight back and forward motions. I did it up down, left right and then the two diagonals. Don't let it dry out when sanding, more water is better than dry. Frequently dip the wet and dry in the water to help flush away the sanded paint. Dry the chip to inspect the levelness. Don't worry about the dull finish. It will polish out as you will not leave any scratches with 1500 wet and dry, just a matt finish. Very light pressure needed. Any harder than just you finger weight and you will end up rubbing the old paint more than the fresh paint.

6. Once flattened down to the level of the old paint, use the meguiars to bring back to a gloss finish. Again in the same pattern as you used to sand the cip down.

 

Seal/protect with your choice of products - I use Zaino Z2 to polish/seal and Zaino Z6 between polishes.

 

Job done! Sit back, open a beer. Relax and smile.

 

Perhaps pick one chip to practice on first. You'll soon get the hang of it and be very satisfied with the results. The trouble is, once you've done the obvious ones you can end up with a bit of OCD and start seeing all the teeny weeny ones... That's the time to open another beer and leave it alone.

[spursmaddave]

Yes. I've done this on my Kuro. This is what you need:

 

1 BMW black touch up paint - halfords (it's the blackest paint you can get apparantly)

1 sheet of 1500 wet and dry paper - halfords

1 tube of Meguiars Scratch X 2.0 - halfords

Polishing cloths - oh, yeah, halfords.

1 pack of cocktail sticks - ah, supermarket ;-)

 

1. Clean the area.

2. Dip the cocktail stick in the paint. You don't want a lot, you don't want it dripping off the stick. Just a tiny blob. You will probably need to wipe most off the stick back into the touch up tube.

3. I place a cloth on the paint work, rest my left hand/arm on it and then put my right hand onto the left arm. It makes a very steady platform and gives accurate results. You then move your hand at the wrist up and down to position the stick onto the stone chip.

4. Touch the stick in the stone chip and let the paint flow into it. You want the filled spot to be proud of the old paint. Repeat as necessary to get the new paint just above the surface of the old paint.

5. Leave it a week to harden. Yes a week otherwise when you come to polish it you will just remove all the fresh paint and be back to square one.

6. Then using a small section of the 1500 wet and dry (not much wider than your finger and about twice the length of your end section of your finger) and some water gently flatten the filled chips. Work in straight back and forward motions. I did it up down, left right and then the two diagonals. Don't let it dry out when sanding, more water is better than dry. Frequently dip the wet and dry in the water to help flush away the sanded paint. Dry the chip to inspect the levelness. Don't worry about the dull finish. It will polish out as you will not leave any scratches with 1500 wet and dry, just a matt finish. Very light pressure needed. Any harder than just you finger weight and you will end up rubbing the old paint more than the fresh paint.

6. Once flattened down to the level of the old paint, use the meguiars to bring back to a gloss finish. Again in the same pattern as you used to sand the cip down.

 

Seal/protect with your choice of products - I use Zaino Z2 to polish/seal and Zaino Z6 between polishes.

 

Job done! Sit back, open a beer. Relax and smile.

 

Perhaps pick one chip to practice on first. You'll soon get the hang of it and be very satisfied with the results. The trouble is, once you've done the obvious ones you can end up with a bit of OCD and start seeing all the teeny weeny ones... That's the time to open another beer and leave it alone.

 

Ive seen his bonnet, very impressive job

[Sam Mcgoo]

Yes. I've done this on my Kuro. This is what you need:

 

1 BMW black touch up paint - halfords (it's the blackest paint you can get apparantly)

1 sheet of 1500 wet and dry paper - halfords

1 tube of Meguiars Scratch X 2.0 - halfords

Polishing cloths - oh, yeah, halfords.

1 pack of cocktail sticks - ah, supermarket ;-)

 

1. Clean the area.

2. Dip the cocktail stick in the paint. You don't want a lot, you don't want it dripping off the stick. Just a tiny blob. You will probably need to wipe most off the stick back into the touch up tube.

3. I place a cloth on the paint work, rest my left hand/arm on it and then put my right hand onto the left arm. It makes a very steady platform and gives accurate results. You then move your hand at the wrist up and down to position the stick onto the stone chip.

4. Touch the stick in the stone chip and let the paint flow into it. You want the filled spot to be proud of the old paint. Repeat as necessary to get the new paint just above the surface of the old paint.

5. Leave it a week to harden. Yes a week otherwise when you come to polish it you will just remove all the fresh paint and be back to square one.

6. Then using a small section of the 1500 wet and dry (not much wider than your finger and about twice the length of your end section of your finger) and some water gently flatten the filled chips. Work in straight back and forward motions. I did it up down, left right and then the two diagonals. Don't let it dry out when sanding, more water is better than dry. Frequently dip the wet and dry in the water to help flush away the sanded paint. Dry the chip to inspect the levelness. Don't worry about the dull finish. It will polish out as you will not leave any scratches with 1500 wet and dry, just a matt finish. Very light pressure needed. Any harder than just you finger weight and you will end up rubbing the old paint more than the fresh paint.

6. Once flattened down to the level of the old paint, use the meguiars to bring back to a gloss finish. Again in the same pattern as you used to sand the cip down.

 

Seal/protect with your choice of products - I use Zaino Z2 to polish/seal and Zaino Z6 between polishes.

 

Job done! Sit back, open a beer. Relax and smile.

 

Perhaps pick one chip to practice on first. You'll soon get the hang of it and be very satisfied with the results. The trouble is, once you've done the obvious ones you can end up with a bit of OCD and start seeing all the teeny weeny ones... That's the time to open another beer and leave it alone.

 

WOW, Great right up!

 

Not sure I have the balls the to go at my paint with w&d though.

 

I take it it the same process with any colour? Are lighter colours (GM) easier or harder than black to hide your efforts?

[scubapics]

WOW, Great right up!

 

Not sure I have the balls the to go at my paint with w&d though.

 

I take it it the same process with any colour? Are lighter colours (GM) easier or harder than black to hide your efforts?

 

Try it, you'll be pleasantly surprised. The 1500 wet and dry just matts the finish so it's just a case of polishing to bring back the gloss. Try the wet and dry and then polish on a small area where you won't notice first to get confident. Under the bonnet perhaps? On the underside of a door?

 

This process should work the same for any flat colour. Metallic you would need to fill with colour below the surface of the original paint, leave to dry a week, then cover with laquer, let dry for a week and then wet sand and polish. Without the laquer the metal flecks in the paint might rust. Ooh, actually you could mix the paint with laquer and try that as a one shot application.

 

Jim

[scubapics]

Ive seen his bonnet, very impressive job

 

Ta mate.

[Sam Mcgoo]

This should probably be a ' DIY stone chip repair' thread on its own, maybe a sticky

 

MODs ??

[Envy Valeting]

Autobrite to a "Black" wax called Black magic which if you lay it on a bit thick could fill the chips and its very good.

Dodo Juice have Blue Velvet and Purple Haze and I have some in my shop

[matty316]

Autobrite to a "Black" wax called Black magic which if you lay it on a bit thick could fill the chips and its very good.

Dodo Juice have Blue Velvet and Purple Haze and I have some in my shop

 

Would you recommend the black magic or the purple haze? i've been looking at the dodo juice range for a while but i've been using Autoglym's High Definition wax with Autoglyms Ultra Deep Shine on top.

[Bassjay]

I'm very interested in that Dr chips...

 

Any glowing reviews?!

 

Any UK resellers?!

[Biggy]

1500 W&D I'd be using more 3000 W&D for chips, especially if you havn't got use of a machine polisher

[Envy Valeting]

Autobrite to a "Black" wax called Black magic which if you lay it on a bit thick could fill the chips and its very good.

Dodo Juice have Blue Velvet and Purple Haze and I have some in my shop

 

Would you recommend the black magic or the purple haze? i've been looking at the dodo juice range for a while but i've been using Autoglym's High Definition wax with Autoglyms Ultra Deep Shine on top.

The Black magic really IS black so will help, the purple haze is more..well...purple, certainly not as dark as the black magic!

If you call autobrite mention Tim at Envy and he may be nicer to you with the pricing

[matty316]

Autobrite to a "Black" wax called Black magic which if you lay it on a bit thick could fill the chips and its very good.

Dodo Juice have Blue Velvet and Purple Haze and I have some in my shop

 

Would you recommend the black magic or the purple haze? i've been looking at the dodo juice range for a while but i've been using Autoglym's High Definition wax with Autoglyms Ultra Deep Shine on top.

The Black magic really IS black so will help, the purple haze is more..well...purple, certainly not as dark as the black magic!

If you call autobrite mention Tim at Envy and he may be nicer to you with the pricing

 

 

Cheers, i will do

[scubapics]

1500 W&D I'd be using more 3000 W&D for chips, especially if you havn't got use of a machine polisher

 

Yes, that's right. 1500 grade wet and dry and hand polished. Was not much effort at all.

[Leeroy]

Bit of a thread resurrection here, I need to sort the stonechips out on my Kuro and found this most excellent guide from Scubapics He recommends BMW 'black' paint from Halfrauds and I've just been on the website - there are a few blacks, anyone know which is the best match for Kuro? I'm guessing Jet Black?

[Chris`I]

I use paints4u.com. Stick in the paint code and get a proper colour match - they've always been spot on for me, with my GM 350z, Halfords paint was well off, P4U was spot on. With my 370z, paint wasnt on the system, but gave them the code and they sent me a spot on paint again

[scubapics]

BMW black is spot on for my kuro.

[Leeroy]

Hey Scubapics, which BMW black do you have? Halfords has a fair few

[matty316]

Just ordered a scratch master kit from pains4u. Hope it works

[scubapics]

The set that I have is a 2 pen kit, B.M.W. Black. The number is 394650 if that helps.

 

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_172805_langId_-1_categoryId_165580

 

Jim

[Leeroy]

Coolio, thanks...

[matty316]

Used the scratch kit this past weekend from paints4u. I was pretty scared while using the wet and dry paper, once i buffed it off i could see that i'd patched it up but at least all the scratch that was showing before has gone. I don't know weather to just touch up the stone chips i have on the bonnet with just a cocktail stick and the paint i have.

 

It does say on the instructions that the results of the kit is down to the user.