Burn Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 New car arriving, was wondering if it needed running in - with modern machining, modern alloys, modern synthetic oils, "is it really still necessary" I'm thinking. On the basis that all human knowledge (and stupidity) can be found on Google, I had a looksee. A few websites trotting out the standard 'running in' formula that probably pre-dates most of us here. Then stumbled across a website where a fella is suggesting that ragging a new engine about a bit is actually beneficial. Here's the link, so those interested can have a read and make their own minds up... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 Nissan suggest not taking it above 4.5k RPM for the first 1200 miles IIRC. My school of thought, as with many others, is just to get it warm and take it to the red line over some time when its warm. Not that I condone this as it may invalidate your warranty, but it has been seen to provide more power and better (read less) oil consuption as the rings seat better. Modern engines are run to the redline on the bench when they are made. IMO the only reason car makers say to keep the revs lower until over 1000 miles is so that things like the tyre release agent can wear off, brakes can bed in and anything else that may go wrong will do so at lower speeds and revs. The engine doesnt need any nannying other than getting the oil nice and warm before you have a play Oh and I beielve many bike teams also openly admit they rag the engines from new Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spursmaddave Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 Probably get mixed responses to that question! I think as long as you let everything warm up before you push it too hard you will be fine, but that's in general anyway not just for new cars. Basically what Chris said much better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greekman Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 never read that. but i v run in 2 cars exactly as he said without knowing it and had no issues so far. my lancia D 1.6 in greece has 120k very very hard miles on the clock with loads of street racing from a to b and the Z with 33k on the clock and many track days. clutches, brakes etc aside the engines themselves are spotless. Initial dyno run of the Zed before the uprev was 319.6 bhp on the fly! The lancia especially with a delicate and very happy revving super mirafiori evolution engine should have popped the clogs ages now. but it hasnt. I dont know if i am just lucky but i kind of understand his way of thinking. would be good to know what the specialists here think of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beavis Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 Does the new car arriving have synthetic oil for the engines lubricant? There is a theory that a good mineral oil is better for the first few thousand miles to allow the engine to bed in before switching to a good synthetic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookbot Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 The thinking on new bike engines, which are very highly tuned, is either: Thrash the tits off it from the off and you may get more power out out it, but it won't last or Run it in gently for about 1000 miles and it should last for years, with a gnats less power. Don't be worried to take it to the red every now and then though, should stop any flat spots developing in the engine as can happen if you just leave it at a certain rpm for the entire time (I was limited to 6000 rpm which is 60mph...Lame!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neilp Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 I think the problem used to be that high friction cause the pistons to expand and seize in the block. I may be wrong and dreaming I read it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 I've heard people say that hire cars have more power because they've been run-in by a variety of people who drive in different ways. I presume this means it has been mercilessly thrashed by everyone?! is this true or is it just gossip perpetuated in order to offload rentals? Any scientific evidence? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The G Man Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 What does the manual say? Yeah I know I should read it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 I've heard people say that hire cars have more power because they've been run-in by a variety of people who drive in different ways. I presume this means it has been mercilessly thrashed by everyone?!is this true or is it just gossip perpetuated in order to offload rentals? Any scientific evidence? No there is some logic in there. Basically when running the engine in the last thing you want to do it nanny it and keep it at low load and low revs. You want to work it through a range of loads and revs working up to high load at high revs. Depending on which school of though you sign up dictates when you should do this. As engines are bench tested from the factory, I see no problem in taking a car up to redline almost straight away as long as the engine oil is nice and warm (90C) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmck13 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Hi I was an engineer in the seventies and I have seen changes over the last 40 years affecting this area in cars. When I bought my first car in 1970 yes 1970 it was normal to slowwwwwly run your car in. The main issue was with the piston rings and general mechanical parts such as the conrod shells, king pins and bearings needing time to wear in, "no NEILP" you did not dream it. Many cars suffered main engine catastrophic failure (pistons departing your car at 2 or 3 hundred miles an hour) LOL, due purely to speed. Now as the decades have gone by this is no longer required because of better manufactuting of these type of items. I would simply stick with the maintenance booklets comments as per "CHRIS 1" comment at the beginning, the answer is they do not require running in but a short bedding in on all the parts including all the car parts is common sense and yes ignoring the advised car manufaturers comments would cause an issue with warranty. Enjoy your car first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff-r Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Hi I was an engineer in the seventies and I have seen changes over the last 40 years affecting this area in cars.When I bought my first car in 1970 yes 1970 it was normal to slowwwwwly run your car in. The main issue was with the piston rings and general mechanical parts such as the conrod shells, king pins and bearings needing time to wear in, "no NEILP" you did not dream it. Many cars suffered main engine catastrophic failure (pistons departing your car at 2 or 3 hundred miles an hour) LOL, due purely to speed. Now as the decades have gone by this is no longer required because of better manufactuting of these type of items. I would simply stick with the maintenance booklets comments as per "CHRIS 1" comment at the beginning, the answer is they do not require running in but a short bedding in on all the parts including all the car parts is common sense and yes ignoring the advised car manufaturers comments would cause an issue with warranty. Enjoy your car first. Like that man said! It's the conclusion I've come to. I bedded mine in with a careful drive to the welsh country side with chrisjones. It was a very careful drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 I bedded mine in on the Wales run last May 900 miles in a weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff-r Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 That's the way! I feel bad for only having 2900 miles on the clock after nearly 8 months of ownership! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choptop Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 I know what I am about to say is old hat and times have changed, but treat the engine with respect for the first 1500 miles and you will get paid back in dividends with a trustworthy engine. Does not always work but hey you cannot win them all. Change the engine oil and filter after a 1000 miles with a good quality mineral based oil (which as Beavis has said helps bed in the engine) and change again after a further 3000 miles, replacing with a synthetic based oil. I know it may sound overkill, but the first oil and filter change will get rid of any swarf/ particles out of the engine. New cars are usually fitted with synthetic oil which prevents proper bedding in of the engine, so replacing it with a good mineral based one for 3000 miles will do it no harm. I have seen 370z's and GTR's amongst other Nissans coming off the end of the production line at Tochigi. Trust me, every car is redlined and some smoke a real treat Not what you may want to hear but there you go viewtopic.php?f=9&t=22516 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainSensible Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 I know what I am about to say is old hat and times have changed, but treat the engine with respect for the first 1500 miles and you will get paid back in dividends with a trustworthy engine. Does not always work but hey you cannot win them all. Change the engine oil and filter after a 1000 miles with a good quality mineral based oil (which as Beavis has said helps bed in the engine) and change again after a further 3000 miles, replacing with a synthetic based oil. I know it may sound overkill, but the first oil and filter change will get rid of any swarf/ particles out of the engine. New cars are usually fitted with synthetic oil which prevents proper bedding in of the engine, so replacing it with a good mineral based one for 3000 miles will do it no harm. I have seen 370z's and GTR's amongst other Nissans coming off the end of the production line at Tochigi. Trust me, every car is redlined and some smoke a real treat Not what you may want to hear but there you go viewtopic. php?f=9&t=22516 Is your engine run in yet Rich? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.