Husky Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Ok guys n gals, wee question. I want to lower the car but i really dont want the tyre killing camber, i quite want to be rid of it almost completely like so: A ) is this possible B ) what is needed to do it yes i know i would need to roll/flare arches but let me worry about that so any ideas cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 To achieve that look? You need to start with a Porsche TBH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted June 25, 2010 Author Share Posted June 25, 2010 To achieve that look? You need to start with a Porsche TBH shut it im just talking about the camber retard not possible then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Camber Arms & toe bolts Plenty of choices, just depends on your budget. I think the Cusco ones are around £700 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted June 25, 2010 Author Share Posted June 25, 2010 Camber Arms & toe bolts Plenty of choices, just depends on your budget. I think the Cusco ones are around £700 im being dense ive had a bit of a google but anyone got a relevant picture to show? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?mode ... rodid=3037 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted June 25, 2010 Author Share Posted June 25, 2010 ooh thankyou would i need the toe adjustment though? i dont see why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Not sure, I'm sure an "expert" will be along soon to confirm I like my negative camber, gives a more agressive look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted June 25, 2010 Author Share Posted June 25, 2010 yeah i know what you mean but its not entirely to my taste i'd rather wide with less camber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkie34 Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 You will need adjustable a arms for the front and adjustable camber and toe bolts for the rear.I have the Eibach setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted June 25, 2010 Author Share Posted June 25, 2010 A arms? back to google Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkie34 Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 The A arms are the most expensive bit,think I paid £450 for mine.As Ian said your looking at around the £700 mark for the bits then fitting then alignment on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted June 25, 2010 Author Share Posted June 25, 2010 but if the front is fine then why do i need to change anything up front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkie34 Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 How do you know it's fine? Once you drop it then you will find out after you have had alignment check you will know what needs doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3FIDDYZ Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 A-Arms are for the front and control the toe and camber on the Zed Few options on here http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Part:Front_Control_Arms Then on the back you got 2 arms (there may be 3 but just trying to find the name of the other one!), Toe and Camber (also known as Trailing Rod and Control Rod!) When you drop the car on coils everything pushs out like /-\ (if you lift it, it would go \-/) so you need a camber arm that has the ability to lenghten but still have the same strenght. The same way that the toe will also push in like /-\ (Top view) so the toe arm will do the same! If you get bad toe then it feels like you are driving a tractor and its hard to keep on the road as you have very little tyre on the tarmac... Lots more info here http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Category:Suspension What you will have to watch when you lower it is the arch rub so some camber may be needed to sort and tuck the wheel in. Mine now sits with the wheels like the porka, but thats a result of the suspension being set up right and at the right rebound and the height being set right. When you do hammer it into a bend you still get a bit of rub but noting like what it was! If your swapping out then I would go with coils, as the zeds are getting older you may find that you change the springs and then soon after you need to change the dampers... The dampers control the rebound and help the spring... Whilst your looking you should also look to get some decent Anti Roll Bars... Will help to keep it nice and tight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Its also worth noting that you might not need to fit them at all, it seems to depend on the amount you drop it & the brand of coilovers/springs Me & Fiddy both dropped the same amount on different coilovers, he needed camber arms yet I didn't Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3FIDDYZ Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Its also worth noting that you might not need to fit them at all, it seems to depend on the amount you drop it & the brand of coilovers/springs Me & Fiddy both dropped the same amount on different coilovers, he needed camber arms yet I didn't Very true! Drop it on coils and there is enough movement on the stock stuff to get it driveable until you see if you need arms... Also, Ian will confirm, Cusco are a great bit of kit, but dont get the one with the pillowball top mount option that they do (its supposed to help with the toe and camber) as the Zeds dont like them... Cant remember why though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted June 25, 2010 Author Share Posted June 25, 2010 fantastic info fiddy much reading to do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 I love my Cuscos From what I remember I was advised against the pillowball mount tops because they were noisier, there was another reason but I can't remember it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3FIDDYZ Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 I love my Cuscos From what I remember I was advised against the pillowball mount tops because they were noisier, there was another reason but I can't remember it Isnt it to do with the fitting of them as there is no way to fit the topmounts or something... hard enough to get to the rebound adjust on the rears let alone set the toe and camber as you need to reach it from the top... And there is no way to get to it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Not sure, been trying to find the email I had from Adam explaining the differences between them but cant find it now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam@Z1auto.com Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 On a Z, pillowballs really offer no meaningful benefit for the top mounts unless it's a full out race car, and you convert all the rest of the various bushings to pillowball as well. Otherwise, the std rubber upper mounts Cusco also offers are silent, last longer, and are less expensive to purchase. When I had my Zero 2, they started out as pillowball versions. I eventually converted to the std upper mounts when the pillows started making noise, and from that point on, advised Cusco to not even bother bringing the pillowball type into the US at all (unless as a special order, where the customer was advised of the above in advance). Plus, on many cars the "pillowball" type upper mount also tends to denote a camber plate. However, due to the suspension geometry of the Z, such mounts are not possible, and since you need other parts to adjust camber/toe anyway, best to put the money saved towards those Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWTech Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 have got access to loads of different suspension options, feel free to PM me if you need a hand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted June 29, 2010 Author Share Posted June 29, 2010 cheers guys, i made a start on reading this http://www.my350z.com/forum/brakes-and- ... 101-a.html when this happened Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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