Is the regular brake fluid OK for a trackday?

[SteveW]

I'm booked on a trackday in just over two weeks and getting rather excited. Just doing the last little bits to get the motor in tip top condition.

 

I have just been thinking about the brake fluid because I've just had a P2 and it was changed with the regular Nissan stuff.

 

Is the regular Nissan stuff (4* / Dot 3) good enough for the trackday or should I get some Dot 4 or Dot 5.1?

 

I did a serach but couldn't find what I was looking for so sorry if this has been asked previously.

 

Cheers

Steve

[martinmac]

Found it, a quote from Ricka after tracking at Donny.

 

 

Things about the car I discovered is that lowering tyre pressure to 34psi was alot better than the journey up on 37 psi; Toyos can go a bit soft after 25 mins of track time & better to go out in 15 mins stints; Motul RBF 600 brake fluid did the job perfectly with no brake fluid boiling; std suspension just about copes with trackdays but if I was going to do more regularly I would definetley consider adjustable coilovers. Finally brakes: I thought they were going superbly (Brembo Calipers/std discs/EBC Redstuff pads) with no brake fade & I was confidenly approching Redgate braking later & later. But when instructor CLive drove it he did say that he thought either pads/ discs or both are not up to the job as they were rather spongy & did not bite enough. The red stuffs were definetley an improvment over std pads but may not be good enough for track, only fast road use. In fact i need to post some pics

[MrLizard]

as long as you cool them down properly and take breaks, ie dont do too many laps then they will be ok, I would however always suggest if you have the time/money to get the fluid replaced, OPIE OILS do a good range and you get a discount from here.

 

the stuff i use might not be appropriate for you but OPIE will give you some decent advice.

[GT4 Zed]

Regular dot 4 fluid just as with the regular brake set up (ie standard brembo, pads rotors non braided lines) will be ok for the ordinary trackday. they should be able to withstand a couple of laps at a time depending on the braking demands and how you use it after which you start to witness "lenghtenning of the brake peda"l ie brade fade at which point you should come in to get it to cool down. once cooled they should perform as before unless you boiled the fluid which means you stayed to long on track or sit to much on the brakes

The only precaution to take is to work around a nice safe schedule. eg 4-5 laps stints depending on the track lenght consisting of:

- an out lap

- 2-3 hot laps

- finally a cooling down lap

Then let the car cool in the paddocks. Check all fluid levels, tyres, and brakes. Leave the bonnet open to prevent engine heat soak and never leave on the hand brakes

 

Use this break to think of ways to improve you driving and braking efficiency. Go back on for more when all is cooled down(15-30mins) .

 

If you continue to do trackdays often and become better then that is when you should consider investing on brake upgrade. There are many ways to do this and i have a post where i have outlined it in 4 stages to aid planing.

[GT4 Zed]

slow response

Steve/martin you are too quick

[martinmac]

Saw an M3 at Donny driven by a young girl, It was her fathers acr and this was her 21st present. Donny was quiet that day so it was open pit. She had a hoon around the track for about 20 mins then pitted and put the handbrake on. The car went home on a trailer.

[GT4 Zed]

Saw an M3 at Donny driven by a young girl, It was her fathers acr and this was her 21st present. Donny was quiet that day so it was open pit. She had a hoon around the track for about 20 mins then pitted and put the handbrake on. The car went home on a trailer.

 

That would be expensive

[martinmac]

Daddy wasnt too pleased.

[Vik54]

Standard set up will be fine as long as you don't go out for too long and do a couple of cool down laps. Just watch out for fade and if it does do not push it

[SteveW]

Thanks for the information, I think I'm gonna have a look to see if I can afford to change the brake fluid because I wouldn't want to ruin my day by boiling the standard dot 3 stuff.

 

I've already decided I'm going to change the gearbox oil anyway so might as well kill two birds with one stone as it were and get 2 litres of RBF 600 and change over.

 

Thanks

[andlid]

To be honest I think that you'll be ok with the standard stuff if it's newish fluid mate, if the flushed your system properly and its all new stuff and you're driving like stated above you'll be grand. I'd be worried about your pads and discs before the fluid to be honest...what opie gearbox oil u going for?

[SteveW]

Hi mate,

 

Well can never be sure if it has been changed properly, you know what Nissan main stealers can be like. I only go there for the stamp and do everything else myself to make sure its done properly.

 

I've recently changed my pads and disks for turbogrooves and yellowstuffs so hoping they will be up to the job.

 

I am thinking of going for teh Silkolene Silktran 5.

[andlid]

Hi mate,

 

Well can never be sure if it has been changed properly, you know what Nissan main stealers can be like. I only go there for the stamp and do everything else myself to make sure its done properly.

 

I've recently changed my pads and disks for turbogrooves and yellowstuffs so hoping they will be up to the job.

 

I am thinking of going for teh Silkolene Silktran 5.

Cool, I'm using the REDLINE Synthetic Manual Transmission 90 MT90 75W-90 GL4 get 4 quarts since 3 aint enough.. the US lads us a mix of the REDLINE but I find the stuff I got fine for normal gearing...haven't tracked yet so not sure if its up for the job. Would ask MR Lizard and see what he's using to be honest since he's doing the tracking fulltime I'd use him as a good gauge. Well change the fluid mate I use bike fluid in mine... a bit more expensive I think but that was the only one I had around when I flushed mine...

[andlid]

Uh sorry before I forget might be worth changing the fluid for the cooling too... and diff and,....

[SteveW]

Uh sorry before I forget might be worth changing the fluid for the cooling too... and diff and,....

 

Aghhhh, not more things for my list!!!

 

Cool, I'm using the REDLINE Synthetic Manual Transmission 90 MT90 75W-90 GL4 get 4 quarts since 3 aint enough.. the US lads us a mix of the REDLINE but I find the stuff I got fine for normal gearing...haven't tracked yet so not sure if its up for the job. Would ask MR Lizard and see what he's using to be honest since he's doing the tracking fulltime I'd use him as a good gauge. Well change the fluid mate I use bike fluid in mine... a bit more expensive I think but that was the only one I had around when I flushed mine...

 

The Silkolene is sold in litres not stupid US measurements so 3 should be enough, that was one of teh reasons why I chose it.

Thanks for the tip about MrLizard.

 

Cheers

Steve

[GT4 Zed]

To mirror what Andlid said earlier and many others previously the standard fluid will be fine if you drive and do the stuff covers above.

But as you have already got uprated rotors and pads you may as well change the fluid and the lines for a more uniform upgrade as its not hard to do or cost an arm or leg. someone is selling some helines cheap

 

Silkolene is very good and so are all the top brands covered by opie. i use motul for all my fluids from engine oil to coolant because they rebranded/used by for Nismo in racing.

 

however the most important thing is to refesh everything especially if you are close to you scheduled service as it means your care will run optimally.

 

don't forget tyres are as important as all the other stuff so make sure they have loads of thread left.

[andlid]

Uh sorry before I forget might be worth changing the fluid for the cooling too... and diff and,....

 

Aghhhh, not more things for my list!!!

 

Cool, I'm using the REDLINE Synthetic Manual Transmission 90 MT90 75W-90 GL4 get 4 quarts since 3 aint enough.. the US lads us a mix of the REDLINE but I find the stuff I got fine for normal gearing...haven't tracked yet so not sure if its up for the job. Would ask MR Lizard and see what he's using to be honest since he's doing the tracking fulltime I'd use him as a good gauge. Well change the fluid mate I use bike fluid in mine... a bit more expensive I think but that was the only one I had around when I flushed mine...

 

The Silkolene is sold in litres not stupid US measurements so 3 should be enough, that was one of teh reasons why I chose it.

Thanks for the tip about MrLizard.

 

Cheers

Steve

 

Let me know how you get on with the silcolene stuff

[andlid]

To mirror what Andlid said earlier and many others previously the standard fluid will be fine if you drive and do the stuff covers above.

But as you have already got uprated rotors and pads you may as well change the fluid and the lines for a more uniform upgrade as its not hard to do or cost an arm or leg. someone is selling some helines cheap

 

Silkolene is very good and so are all the top brands covered by opie. i use motul for all my fluids from engine oil to coolant because they rebranded/used by for Nismo in racing.

 

however the most important thing is to refesh everything especially if you are close to you scheduled service as it means your care will run optimally.

 

don't forget tyres are as important as all the other stuff so make sure they have loads of thread left.

if it's dry make sure they dont have thread

[GT4 Zed]

To mirror what Andlid said earlier and many others previously the standard fluid will be fine if you drive and do the stuff covers above.

But as you have already got uprated rotors and pads you may as well change the fluid and the lines for a more uniform upgrade as its not hard to do or cost an arm or leg. someone is selling some helines cheap

 

Silkolene is very good and so are all the top brands covered by opie. i use motul for all my fluids from engine oil to coolant because they rebranded/used by for Nismo in racing.

 

however the most important thing is to refesh everything especially if you are close to you scheduled service as it means your care will run optimally.

 

don't forget tyres are as important as all the other stuff so make sure they have loads of thread left.

if it's dry make sure they dont have thread

 

Anders you are really

 

How does he drive back home with illegal tyres?

[andlid]

To mirror what Andlid said earlier and many others previously the standard fluid will be fine if you drive and do the stuff covers above.

But as you have already got uprated rotors and pads you may as well change the fluid and the lines for a more uniform upgrade as its not hard to do or cost an arm or leg. someone is selling some helines cheap

 

Silkolene is very good and so are all the top brands covered by opie. i use motul for all my fluids from engine oil to coolant because they rebranded/used by for Nismo in racing.

 

however the most important thing is to refesh everything especially if you are close to you scheduled service as it means your care will run optimally.

 

don't forget tyres are as important as all the other stuff so make sure they have loads of thread left.

if it's dry make sure they dont have thread

 

Anders you are really

 

How does he drive back home with illegal tyres?

 

He has two rears with him in the boot...

[GT4 Zed]

[andlid]

[SteveW]

 

Think I would need an onsite tyre fitter......hmm wonder if there is one. . . . .