H5 Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 This weekend I will be fitting the various brake products I have acquired. It will be a full disc, pad, line and fluid change. Anyone that has done any of these, please let me know anything specific to look out for (little bits that break that mess the whole thing up etc.!) I have done the pads before, and the discs look relatively straight forward. The car will be up on a ramp when I do this. Thanks in advance....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cragus Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Which lines are you fitting? Its no biggie but if it is HEL lines they don't give you clips to ensure they are held back from the wheel line of travel. Easiest thing to do is just take the clips off the existing lines and attach them to your new ones. I believe Goodridge hoses give you some clips but I could be wring. Other than - piece of cake! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Make sure you bleed them in the right order and don't let the resevoir run dry! Once you get air in it's a sod to get out. And make sure you check the runout, might need to get the discs scimmed if it's too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Make sure you bleed them in the right order and don't let the resevoir run dry! Once you get air in it's a sod to get out. And make sure you check the runout, might need to get the discs scimmed if it's too much. +1 So its good to have someone or 2 to help Bleeding order is to start farthest from the front driver side wheel (NSR-OSR-NSF-OSF) careful to not get brakefluid on paintwork Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 Thanks for the input so far. Will have my Dad with me who knows his way around cars and can do most things or at least give it a go! I will have access to a pressure bleeder - is that wise / unwise on the Zed? Chris - help me bud - runout?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 Oh, and they are HEL lines - anything specific on those other than the clips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 A pressure bleeder is fine if you knw how to use it Otherwise good old fashion legwork I did not bother with the clips when fitting someones HEL lines and it should be fine. Once everything is back on check for clearances and leak from under the ramp before and after a test drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted May 16, 2010 Author Share Posted May 16, 2010 After yesterday's track session, here is the effort on the brake change.....! The kit - Performance Friction front discs, DBA 4000 slotted rear discs, Performance Frictions pads front and rear, HEL brake lines and Motul RBF600 fluid The front discs exposed It took us an hour to get the car raised enough to get the ramp mounts in place so there was nothing putting weight on the skirts. Really frustrating! Got the wheels off And proof the change was needed! And then managed to get them changed over! After the time to get the car up on the ramp, I didn't have time to change the lines. Will do that in a couple of weeks - need to get some pictures to check the line change as well..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Very good choice replacement for OEM size rotors I have PF 01 race pads on my BBk and they have montrous stopping power and fade resistance...just very dusty cough cough Its not very clear from the pics if you changed the pads too, but hope i you did not postpone that too . Lines and fluid change will be a doodle once you get the car up to the ramp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Rob, run out is the amount the disc moves from side to side naturally due to variance in the disc and hub. See the threads on DTV that Bennet posted, it needs to be checked a d the discs skimmed if it's too much otherwise you get DTV which I got on my last set of discs that I fitted myself. It tends to develop as vibration after a few thousand miles, made worse ifyou are a daily motorway driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcash5 Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Bennet you are wrong on the order of bleeding, remember the zed has a different order: Driver side rear Pass front Pass Rear Driverside Front Rob - Only advice I can offer when I did mine was to get a decent brakeline spanner (specialist tool) as your'll round the nuts on the hardlines very easily. If possible soak the lines in penetrating fluid the night before as it will make braking the rust/grime/TQ much easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcash5 Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 The front discs exposed Its not very clear from the pics if you changed the pads too, but hope i you did not postpone that too . Lines and fluid change will be a doodle once you get the car up to the ramp Read the thread/ look at the pics before you reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted May 16, 2010 Author Share Posted May 16, 2010 Yep, definitely did the pads! I've done the pads before, so it was just the lines I didn't get to do. Looking at it, am I right thinking the line replacement is literally in place of all the flexible elements?? Chris - how do I know if I need to have this skimming at all?? Initially there is huge stopping power and decent feel. Will look for Bennets threads.... Will have a look for a brakeline spanner - any suggestions where to get such a thing? Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Rob - Only advice I can offer when I did mine was to get a decent brakeline spanner (specialist tool) as your'll round the nuts on the hardlines very easily. If possible soak the lines in penetrating fluid the night before as it will make braking the rust/grime/TQ much easier +1 on that, attempted to do mine and felt that the nut was gonna round, so left it till I visited Dixon at DMS with my mate and his crew did it for me instead. Didn't want to leave the Zed stranded in my drive without brakes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcash5 Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Halfords sell the brake line spanners Looks like these Wasn't impressed with those power bleeders bought one, used it and ended up just getting a mate to help me out instead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nurrish Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Bennet you are wrong on the order of bleeding, remember the zed has a different order: Driver side rear Pass front Pass Rear Driverside Front Rob - Only advice I can offer when I did mine was to get a decent brakeline spanner (specialist tool) as your'll round the nuts on the hardlines very easily. If possible soak the lines in penetrating fluid the night before as it will make braking the rust/grime/TQ much easier I followed this guide http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Brake_Fluid_Bleeding which apparently is the proper way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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