ikarus Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 As suggested, i've moved this info to the appropriate section.. Open your door and you'll see the rubber gaitor and plastic clip, pull down the grey lever to release it. Tip, pull the door back (close) just slightly and you actually get a little more room. Pull the assembly down under the toor stop bracket. Now with the clip in its open position you can remove the grey lever with a a little help from a flat blade screwdriver. Now the black plastic cover also comes off by releasing the clip, you should just have a rubber gaitor now. Roll back the rubber gaitor to reveal the wires. If you fish about inside the car just above the kick panel location (kick panel removed) you will find the other half of the assembly, unclip this from the bodyshell and pull it free and into the footwell where you can work on it. *This is the tricky bit! You need to create a hole in each of the plastic wire connectors for your new speaker cable to go through. Use some unused space away from most of the used pins. I used a knife, then a drill (about 3mm i think), then finally i used a soldering iron - there is no easy way to do this - you just need to be patient and take your time. If you mess up the neighbouring wired pins its all over - BE CAREFULL!! *HINT - if it's cold (it was) run up your engine and put the heater on, it blows out straight onto your head while you work. Once you have enough clearance for your new wire, clean up the connector and then it's on to the other half. Do the same to the other half of the connector (now in the footwell). Make sure your new holes will align when you clip them back together - this is very important. Next start to feed the new speaker cable through, i started inside the car and worked outward. Fee the cable through the plug and up through the hole in the body panel for the clip. Next feed it though the outer clip ready to go through the rubber gaitor. Next i pushed out the rubber gaitor from where it seats in the door. Then made a small slit in the part that sits inside the door so i could push through a large cable tie to act as a guide pull. Now attach the speaker cable to the cable tie with a little gaffa tape (to too much - you dont want to make it too thick). *HINT - spray a little silicon lube or 3in1 oil on you finger tips and coat the gaffa tape and cable - it will slide through easily now (it wont if you don't believe me!). Now pull/push the cable through the rubber gaitor. Once you have the cable through, feed it into the door with enough to reach your speakers, then reseat the gaitor into the door side. Now re-assemble the clip in reverse order. Next re-seat the inner clip above the kick panel in the body panel, you need to feed the top part in first and then pivot the bottom part in untill it locates. Next align the outer clip with the grey lever full down (not as photographed - i realised this after i took the photo) into position (again move the door slightly inward to give you the room to do this). THIS IS IMPORTANT - from the inside simultaniously pull any speaker cable slack back into the car to avoid any bunching inside the clip assembly. Next just move the grey lever back into it's locked position and there you go. Before putting the door card back on, plug in the electric window control panel and just check everything is working ok. *CAUTION - the two clips are male pins and a female socket, if you disturb any of the male pins significantly you could damage them when you try to re-assembly everything - they have to align on both sides. *PS my car has been re-sprayed and there is some overspray on the clips, i could see how this might be confusing on some of the above images. It worked for me, i now have decent cable running to the door speakers ikarus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanS16 Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Great guide Ikarus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAMIE MOY Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmarky Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Nice write up, thats the same way i did it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 fantastic guide, just getting all the info together to try and tackle my ice install my door cable looks a little different from the one posted above as there seems to be a extra cover with a bolt through it guess it needs to be removed, then follow the above guide ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maz0 Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 awsome mate, cheers for that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmarky Posted July 8, 2010 Share Posted July 8, 2010 fantastic guide, just getting all the info together to try and tackle my ice install my door cable looks a little different from the one posted above as there seems to be a extra cover with a bolt through it guess it needs to be removed, then follow the above guide ??? That is correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 what awg is the biggest you can fit? I want to be running 190rms per mid. Would 16awg fit through there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 cheers madmarky didn't want to unscrew it and me wing fall off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zugara Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 Fantastic guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red_rider Posted November 22, 2022 Share Posted November 22, 2022 On 10/04/2010 at 19:25, ikarus said: As suggested, i've moved this info to the appropriate section.. Open your door and you'll see the rubber gaitor and plastic clip, pull down the grey lever to release it. Tip, pull the door back (close) just slightly and you actually get a little more room. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2184.jpg Pull the assembly down under the toor stop bracket. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2185.jpg Now with the clip in its open position you can remove the grey lever with a a little help from a flat blade screwdriver. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2186.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2187.jpg Now the black plastic cover also comes off by releasing the clip, you should just have a rubber gaitor now. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2188.jpg Roll back the rubber gaitor to reveal the wires. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2190.jpg If you fish about inside the car just above the kick panel location (kick panel removed) you will find the other half of the assembly, unclip this from the bodyshell and pull it free and into the footwell where you can work on it. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2191.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2192.jpg *This is the tricky bit! You need to create a hole in each of the plastic wire connectors for your new speaker cable to go through. Use some unused space away from most of the used pins. I used a knife, then a drill (about 3mm i think), then finally i used a soldering iron - there is no easy way to do this - you just need to be patient and take your time. If you mess up the neighbouring wired pins its all over - BE CAREFULL!! *HINT - if it's cold (it was) run up your engine and put the heater on, it blows out straight onto your head while you work. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2193.jpg Once you have enough clearance for your new wire, clean up the connector and then it's on to the other half. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2195.jpg Do the same to the other half of the connector (now in the footwell). Make sure your new holes will align when you clip them back together - this is very important. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2196.jpg Next start to feed the new speaker cable through, i started inside the car and worked outward. Fee the cable through the plug and up through the hole in the body panel for the clip. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2197.jpg Next feed it though the outer clip ready to go through the rubber gaitor. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2198.jpg Next i pushed out the rubber gaitor from where it seats in the door. Then made a small slit in the part that sits inside the door so i could push through a large cable tie to act as a guide pull. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2199.jpg Now attach the speaker cable to the cable tie with a little gaffa tape (to too much - you dont want to make it too thick). *HINT - spray a little silicon lube or 3in1 oil on you finger tips and coat the gaffa tape and cable - it will slide through easily now (it wont if you don't believe me!). Now pull/push the cable through the rubber gaitor. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2201.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2202.jpg Once you have the cable through, feed it into the door with enough to reach your speakers, then reseat the gaitor into the door side. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2204.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2205.jpg Now re-assemble the clip in reverse order. Next re-seat the inner clip above the kick panel in the body panel, you need to feed the top part in first and then pivot the bottom part in untill it locates. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2207.jpg Next align the outer clip with the grey lever full down (not as photographed - i realised this after i took the photo) into position (again move the door slightly inward to give you the room to do this). THIS IS IMPORTANT - from the inside simultaniously pull any speaker cable slack back into the car to avoid any bunching inside the clip assembly. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2208.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh85/dm_ikarus/350z/FrontSpeakerWiring/DSCF2209.jpg Next just move the grey lever back into it's locked position and there you go. Before putting the door card back on, plug in the electric window control panel and just check everything is working ok. *CAUTION - the two clips are male pins and a female socket, if you disturb any of the male pins significantly you could damage them when you try to re-assembly everything - they have to align on both sides. *PS my car has been re-sprayed and there is some overspray on the clips, i could see how this might be confusing on some of the above images. It worked for me, i now have decent cable running to the door speakers ikarus. Hi was it worth doing, with all the effort Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodgeevans Posted November 25, 2022 Share Posted November 25, 2022 In my opinion depends, if you are running just off the head unit, not really. But if you are powering your speakers off an amp then it's a must Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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