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Spacer Fitment


Craig Shirron

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Guys!

 

Recently bought Kei Racing spacers from Andy i have a small questions...

 

Obviously the only way to check the tightening of the spacers is to remove the wheel, have any of you guys put a spec of thread lock on one or two of the origional studs just incase?

 

Also fitting the rear should be ok as the handbrake will hold the hub from turning, how did you guys get the correct torque with the free wheeling front hub...? a second person? jam the foot brake on?

 

Just so i get it right first time :-)

 

Craig

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When I did mine I did not use thread lock.

Tighten the spacer to 105/110 foot pounds and the the book say the wheel should be 80 Foot Pounds.

So I reccon'd the wheel would fall off first :scare::scare::scare::scare:

 

I was on my own so with the front I tightend them a much as I could, then put a crow bar between two studs so when it touches the floor the hud won't rotate. You are only tightening to 110 so you don't damage or snap anything.

 

Worked fine for me,good look.

 

Chris

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When I did mine I did not use thread lock.

Tighten the spacer to 105/110 foot pounds and the the book say the wheel should be 80 Foot Pounds.

So I reccon'd the wheel would fall off first :scare::scare::scare::scare:

 

I was on my own so with the front I tightend them a much as I could, then put a crow bar between two studs so when it touches the floor the hud won't rotate. You are only tightening to 110 so you don't damage or snap anything.

 

Worked fine for me,good look.

 

Chris

 

 

as above; just remember dont over tigthen the spacer nuts.

 

what size did you go for..i am very happy with mine.20mm up front and 25mm on the rear.

vastly improves the stance and overall look. :teeth:

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Yep, whatever you do, dont over tighten them. And i thought the torque setting to use was 110nm personally.

 

To do the fronts, i put a long sturdy screwdriver inside the vents of the brake disk, which stops it rotating past your calipers.

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When I did mine I did not use thread lock.

Tighten the spacer to 105/110 foot pounds and the the book say the wheel should be 80 Foot Pounds.

So I reccon'd the wheel would fall off first :scare::scare::scare::scare:

 

I was on my own so with the front I tightend them a much as I could, then put a crow bar between two studs so when it touches the floor the hud won't rotate. You are only tightening to 110 so you don't damage or snap anything.

 

Worked fine for me,good look.

 

Chris

The reason they quote a figure is of 80ft lbs is because that is the safe working limit for the integrity of the threads. If you exceed this value by more than 10% you put extra pressure on the threads themselves which can strip or suddenly give way, in particular if you are putting the wheel under a lot of lateral pressure - e.g. cornering hard. Best to loosen them and if the manual says to use thread lock, use it if not then don't and tighten them up to the recommended torque setting as indicated in the book.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Guys - in need of some help here. Car is jacked up at the moment and we were just about to fit the front spacers. However, there is some sort of locating bolt in the way of the spacer fitting on the hub? Do you just take it off? Whats it for?

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Guys - in need of some help here. Car is jacked up at the moment and we were just about to fit the front spacers. However, there is some sort of locating bolt in the way of the spacer fitting on the hub? Do you just take it off? Whats it for?

 

 

fitted mine friday, nothing blocking the front wheel.

 

live next door to a mechanic so used his hydrolic drill thingy, so dont know the pressure, but they were tight and i can easily check them regularly to make sure they are ok.

 

looks better with them on for sure.

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