andlid Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 Hi lads, was wondering if anyone has done an upgrade to the rear 6.5" to 8" with a passive filter only letting the 8" play bass sounds? (would be quicker then lets say a 12") I've been thinking on taking out the std sub and making a sub enclosure under the strutbar and then using two 8"s rear and upgrade the fronts with a decent set of 6.5". (was thinking on getting a mold for a bigger front speaker system but not sure it's worth the hazzle) looking at below photo it looks like I could cut out the metal to make it fit a 8 and use a MDF ring to put it in and leave it there... possibly making a fiberglass 'pot' for them? (never worked in fb so that could be a cool lurning curve) Any ideas? / hints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yokomo Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 i would have thought the effort involved wouldnt justify the ends opening them out for 8" s vs putting some 6" mid dirvers in there. eitherway way you defiantly want to make some sort of backing to seal them up or theyl ratle and flap about in the open metal space. working with fiberglass isnt that hard but its really dependant on what you moulding into , boot builds are easy since thers a nice open space and not much going upsidedown , those holes on the other hand wold be a PITA ! if the dirvers where slightly smaller however you could mould the cups outside the car and seal to the mounting rings so it was justa drop in , that would be easy to mould. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 i would have thought the effort involved wouldnt justify the ends opening them out for 8" s vs putting some 6" mid dirvers in there.eitherway way you defiantly want to make some sort of backing to seal them up or theyl ratle and flap about in the open metal space. working with fiberglass isnt that hard but its really dependant on what you moulding into , boot builds are easy since thers a nice open space and not much going upsidedown , those holes on the other hand wold be a PITA ! if the dirvers where slightly smaller however you could mould the cups outside the car and seal to the mounting rings so it was justa drop in , that would be easy to mould. food for thought, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yokomo Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 what are you after achieving and how creative you want to get will be the deceding factors. if its just a stealthy install that sounds better thean the bose thats easy , if its a show winning audiophile system your gonna have to get creatve and learn loads (way more than i know) or a big bass thumping car then getting ready to deaden and glass up the boot ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 what are you after achieving and how creative you want to get will be the deceding factors. if its just a stealthy install that sounds better thean the bose thats easy , if its a show winning audiophile system your gonna have to get creatve and learn loads (way more than i know) or a big bass thumping car then getting ready to deaden and glass up the boot ! I'm trying to get something well sounding but stealthy enough and dont want to weigh down the car to much with dynamat works etc. Thought some quick 8s would be better then 6.5s but if it's not worth it as you say then a good set of 6.5s will be cool. Have my eyes on a decent 5channel amp that would be good enough to power 4*6.5" and one 10", would have the amp in the enclousure behind the seat where org sub is and the other enclousure would have a mini pc install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helimeddaz Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 i would have thought the effort involved wouldnt justify the ends opening them out for 8" s vs putting some 6" mid dirvers in there.eitherway way you defiantly want to make some sort of backing to seal them up or theyl ratle and flap about in the open metal space. working with fiberglass isnt that hard but its really dependant on what you moulding into , boot builds are easy since thers a nice open space and not much going upsidedown , those holes on the other hand wold be a PITA ! if the dirvers where slightly smaller however you could mould the cups outside the car and seal to the mounting rings so it was justa drop in , that would be easy to mould. food for thought, thanks This advice is dead right. It depends what your goal is. Full on maximum impact show car install or massive upgrade stealth system. If its the latter then 8" is a lot of work for not alot of gain. Last year I auditioned loads of speakers for my stealth install. The best I listened to were made by Rainbow, but at the time were out of my reach. I bought in the end Hertz Hi-Energy 2 ways for the rears and Hi-Energy Space components for the fronts and i am very happy with them, but JL's, JBL and number of others were no bad either. You have a blank sheet looking at the pic, So choose a path. Just remember Dyna-Mat everthing. I know you can't see it and it may seem expensive, but if you don't, it won't matter how good the speakers are when the interior shakes itself to bits around you. My 10" Alpine Type-R sub fitted in a custom box in the original location moves 15 times more air than the Bose Cowpat fitted as standard (you will feel it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yokomo Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 the bose moved air ? i thought it was just sub standard not a sub woofer ! if your just after stealthy nice sound id go for the same as helimeddaz adn few other have with a decent amp (looks like you found one) and put the sub where the bose was wiht some comps in the rest. heck even the bose main amp can give half decent sound if its backed by a proper sub and head unit , least i tihnk mine sounds ok if a tad under powered . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helimeddaz Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 the bose moved air ? i thought it was just sub standard not a sub woofer !if your just after stealthy nice sound id go for the same as helimeddaz adn few other have with a decent amp (looks like you found one) and put the sub where the bose was wiht some comps in the rest. heck even the bose main amp can give half decent sound if its backed by a proper sub and head unit , least i tihnk mine sounds ok if a tad under powered . I managed to fit 2 amps and a 6 disc mp3 autochanger in the spaces behind the bulk head. A 1000Watt monoblock for the Sub and a 4 way 500Watt for the fronts and rears. All anyone can see are the colour coded rears (Lurverly bright orange) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yokomo Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 yeah lot of space back , ive got my monoblock under the glove comparment so youd never even know its there. theres soo much wasted space in the Z its crazy , irecon there muhc be getting on for 2 cubes a side that could be used for a realy loud install that would be completly hidden if you could mould the boxes right out to the bulk heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helimeddaz Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 This is what I did. [i Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yokomo Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 nice , is that amoulded sub box ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted March 26, 2010 Author Share Posted March 26, 2010 sweet where you drunk taking the photos though? Would be interested to see what / how you did the sub enclosure. Did you enclose anything behind the seats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helimeddaz Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 sweet where you drunk taking the photos though? Would be interested to see what / how you did the sub enclosure. Did you enclose anything behind the seats? I didn't think the pics were that bad (for me anyway) The Sub is in a custom box with the Monoblock next to it. There are some plans on here for the Boxes do a search (Easy). Pull out the circular plate it makes things easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.