Lincolnbaggie Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Friend of mine has an MX-5. Over winter the battery became flat. Charged it on a trickle charger (they are gel batteries on these things). It did start after charging the old battery up, but that went dead again over a couple of days so I think that one is kaput. Bought a new one, fitted it and now the car won't start. Immobiliser problem I think; I think I've messed up the system fitting the new one somehow Tried all sorts of locking/unlocking permutations. Alarm still works fine, but when I put the key in the ignition the "key" light on the dash that is supposed to light up and then go out doesn't appear at all. Has anyone mechanically minded on here got an MX-5 and know anything about how the immobiliser on these things can be reset/tested etc? I'll explain the problems more fully if anyone thinks they may be able to help (PS Tried asking on MX5-OC, but not a jot of help there ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanski Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 surprised the MX5 oc cant help? check all the fuses are ok first before anything else and that the earthing strap is secure onto the body and battery, does'nt matter what kind of battery it is should behave the same way?Have you tried jump starting from another car (using jump leads - incase there is a funny with the current new battery?) I would suggest you get an auto electrician in otherwise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Forget the OC. Post up the question on mx5nutz.com - much friendlier site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Or try www.hairdressersridez.com Have to had an ammeter across the immobiliser points to see if it is that creating the current draw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Or try http://www.hairdressersridez.com Have to had an ammeter across the immobiliser points to see if it is that creating the current draw? Bigot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Hook, line and sinker! Would just make sure the current drain is identified using an ammeter across various places..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincolnbaggie Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 Problem is not the current drain - new battery is fine. Since fitting the new battery the immobiliser will not disarm and we can't start the car. Whole lock/unlock procedure seems to have gone haywire - sometimes the indicators flash, sometimes they don't when locking/unlocking and the immobiliser warning light is supposed to iiluminate when the key is put in the ignition and then go out, but it doesn't come on at all. Think I've messed up the immobiliser system somehow, but can't get it to Mazda as it won't start. It's the original Mazda system. Alarm still works, and I'm stumped (and to cap it all off the friend who's car it is had her 9 month old kitten run over and killed yesterday and a friend of mine from uni died on Wednesday from cancer at 45 - life is just pretty crap at the moment ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Ouch, sorry to hear about the other problems. Puts an immobiliser into perspective. Will see if I can find anything out, who makes the immobiliser? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanski Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Sorry to hear about your friend - think that is more important than a car at this moment in time but really you need to get an auto electrician out or mobile auto locksmith -they will be able to fix it for you quicker and cheaper than Mazda. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincolnbaggie Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 Ouch, sorry to hear about the other problems. Puts an immobiliser into perspective. Will see if I can find anything out, who makes the immobiliser? It's the original Mazda alarm/immobiliser system built into the car. Car is a 2001 1.8i Sport (mk 2.5). History of problems: 1. Flat battery after winter. 2. Removed battery and charged using a trickle charger 3. Connected battery (while doors locked), unlocked car and car started fine (twice) 4. Left for two days 5. Car won't start (flat battery?) although I wasn't there for this bit so no idea how car was unlocked or anything 6. Removed old battery 7. Fitted new fully charged battery (while the doors were unlocked I think) 8. Won't disarm immobiliser. 9. Tried disconnecting and connecting battery with car in various states of locked/unlocked and it seems to have made things worse. Sometimes indicators flash as normal and sometimes nothing, but never got the immobiliser light on the dash to come on when the key is inserted into the ignition which it should do. Alarm still works if you connect the battery with the car locked and alarm disables okay using the key fob or key in the door? Don't know what the hell I've done, but I've ballsed something up. I just want to disarm/reset the immobiliser to start the thing, but it's all connected to the ECU and ignition coils and stuff so no idea what to do (and obviously can't get it anywhere to have someone look at it). Nothing on Google either...... It always feels worse when it's someone else's car as well I think a mobile auto electrician is the way to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Could be that you need to go through the process you went through at the beginning when the battery had died? eg leave the battery off it a day or so, let everything reset and then try again? Just searching around atm.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincolnbaggie Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 Could be that you need to go through the process you went through at the beginning when the battery had died? eg leave the battery off it a day or so, let everything reset and then try again? Just searching around atm.... Cheers for all your help on this I disconnected the battery this morning and will leave it off till tomorrow and see where we are then. There must be a reset procedure I would have thought but can't find one anywhere.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 This might be it? http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1y8 ... x5-is-this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincolnbaggie Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 This might be it? http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1y8 ... x5-is-this yeah, saw that earlier, but the point: 1. Insert one of the pre-programmed transponder keys and turn the ignition to "on", leave on for at least one second ( wait until the red key symbol in the instrument cluster extinguishes), remove the key from the ignition. messes me up cos the red key symbol doesn't come on when key is turned to "on" (which it should as this is the immobiliser responding to the key) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 And you've tried that with both keys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Is it a keyfob with a battery? I have had an issue in the past with my landie immobiliser not switching off. I took the dash to bits and cleaned up the connectors etc on the receiver side. Works ok now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincolnbaggie Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 And you've tried that with both keys? Yep, both keys. Is it a keyfob with a battery? I have had an issue in the past with my landie immobiliser not switching off. I took the dash to bits and cleaned up the connectors etc on the receiver side. Works ok now. It's a fob, but that only turns the alarm on and off as far as I can tell. I think with the MX5, the key sends a signal to the immobiliser only when the key is inserted so it must be via the management system of the car rather than IR. Seems to me the problem is more with the keys not sending the right signals. The alarm arms and disarms okay using the fob, but the key is not sending the correct signal to deactivate the immobiliser. Why are cars so bloody complicated these days - hanker after my old Rover V8 where you could work on everything so easily.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Sounds to me like the immobiliser and the keys have fallen out of love with each other and are refusing to talk. Short of modifying it with a hammer, it might be a case of getting it on the Mazda diagnostic machine and getting them to re-map the two together - match.com style Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chesterfield Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Neil, have you tried the main fuses (dont know where they are on the 2.5 model). Are there any other lights coming on on the dash, or is it blank? May indicate that the main fuse went when installing the new battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Final attempt - http://www.pdfoo.com/mazda/231-8644-pdf.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincolnbaggie Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 Neil, have you tried the main fuses (dont know where they are on the 2.5 model). Are there any other lights coming on on the dash, or is it blank? May indicate that the main fuse went when installing the new battery? Not fuses - everything else is working fine (lights, dashboard lights, radio, windows) - I think H5 is right on the key thing I'll download that manual and have a look. Cheers again guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincolnbaggie Posted March 16, 2010 Author Share Posted March 16, 2010 Well the plot thickens! Arranged for my local garage to sort out the problem as I know them and they don't tend to charge me! They've just been to pick the car up to take to their guys to sort it out. We pushed the car out of the garage; lowered the window to get better access for pushing and the immobiliser light came on and went off as it should. Tried to start it and car started fine. Turned off and back on and started fine again! Closed the doors and locked it; unlocked it, inserted key, no immobiliser light and it wouldn't start (and yes, we did try lowering the window again) Looks like an intermittent problem with the immobiliser, so we'll see what they say. Must mean the keys are still coded and it's not a fuse blown (else it wouldn't have started once), so maybe just a corroded wire or bad earth somewhere. Totally confused now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 I'd go back to the hammer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincolnbaggie Posted May 7, 2010 Author Share Posted May 7, 2010 Update on this if anyone is interested! Turns out it was the immobiliser unit that had gone bang - new one fitted by local autoelectrician and good to go again. What he did say you might find interesting though... He reckons it blew when my mate tried to jump start the car after the winter lay-off. He says, when jumping a car, always turn on as much electrical equipment as you can on both cars (lights/fans etc etc) to avoid voltage spikes when you jump it as this is normally what fries electrical components. I always thought you should put as little load on the cars as possible but he said this is a common mistake that could cause all sorts of problems...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 Update on this if anyone is interested! Turns out it was the immobiliser unit that had gone bang - new one fitted by local autoelectrician and good to go again. What he did say you might find interesting though... He reckons it blew when my mate tried to jump start the car after the winter lay-off. He says, when jumping a car, always turn on as much electrical equipment as you can on both cars (lights/fans etc etc) to avoid voltage spikes when you jump it as this is normally what fries electrical components. I always thought you should put as little load on the cars as possible but he said this is a common mistake that could cause all sorts of problems...... messed up my airbag controller box in my old Golf by doing a jumpstart... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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