introspect Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Right, I'm going to change my spark plugs soon. I've found a guide on how to do it and it all seems fairly straight forward. The only thing I'm a bit worried about is removing the strut bar. Obviously undoing the bolts that hold it on is self explanatory, I'm just worried about whether or not I need to slacken off the nuts on the bar itself (shown below), and if so, how do you know how much to re-tension them when putting it back? I'm just worried that I'm going to mess up the handling if I do it wrong. Any advice would be much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincolnbaggie Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Tower bar.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 slacken of the two outside ones then turn the inside one to slacken the bar, you will see the thread moving into the bar. then take the 3 bolts out each side and then the 1 nut each side and it will come off, if its awkward you need to turn the middle nut on the bar. dont forget there are some bits of harness clipped to it. The torque values and procedure for putting it back on are contained within the workshop manual which is downloadabel EDIT: like the PDF above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
introspect Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 slacken of the two outside ones then turn the inside one to slacken the bar, you will see the thread moving into the bar. then take the 3 bolts out each side and then the 1 nut each side and it will come off, if its awkward you need to turn the middle nut on the bar. dont forget there are some bits of harness clipped to it. The torque values and procedure for putting it back on are contained within the workshop manual which is downloadabel EDIT: like the PDF above Thanks guys, I've downloaded the PDF above. So is it just a case of counting how many revolutions of the centre bolt that you make, and then doing it in reverse when you're putting it back on? Also, and this might be a stupid question, but what do you use to torque the two outside nuts on the bar? I have a torque wrench but I don't see how that will help with the nuts on the actual bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 you would use a crows foot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wookiee22 Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 If you don't have a set of crow's feet (or know someone who you can borrow some from) they're a handy bit of kit to add to your tool collection. Lots of hard-to-reach bolts on the zed (cats, headers etc) and these make the job easier! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
introspect Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 Cool, thanks for that guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lincolnbaggie Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 I don't think the strut bars are normally under that much tension anyway - mine came off without any need to loosen the bolt. Just slacken off half a turn and then tighten half a turn when you put it back on. Not really necessary to use a torque wrench, just tighten the locking bolts up tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 I know I've said it before but you don't actually need to take the strut bar off to change the spark plugs! It would certainly make access easier but it can be done without. When I did mine I didn't actually have a big enough spanner for the nuts on the bar so it stayed where it was, a little fiddly in places but very do-able. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
introspect Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 I know I've said it before but you don't actually need to take the strut bar off to change the spark plugs!It would certainly make access easier but it can be done without. When I did mine I didn't actually have a big enough spanner for the nuts on the bar so it stayed where it was, a little fiddly in places but very do-able. Yeah I saw that post, but I've got a plenum spacer so I think I'll need to remove the strut bar in order to get the engine cover off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 I know I've said it before but you don't actually need to take the strut bar off to change the spark plugs!It would certainly make access easier but it can be done without. When I did mine I didn't actually have a big enough spanner for the nuts on the bar so it stayed where it was, a little fiddly in places but very do-able. Yeah I saw that post, but I've got a plenum spacer so I think I'll need to remove the strut bar in order to get the engine cover off. Doh, yes you probably will it was a squeeze to get the cover out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 dont over torque the bar tensioner. the bar will bow and if it is already spaced to allow a plenum spacer underneath it will interfere with bonnet and if bad enough damage your bonnet. as already mentioned you dont need to go wild when tightening it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
introspect Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 dont over torque the bar tensioner.the bar will bow and if it is already spaced to allow a plenum spacer underneath it will interfere with bonnet and if bad enough damage your bonnet. as already mentioned you dont need to go wild when tightening it. When loosening the centre nut on the bar is it just a case of counting how many complete turns you make and tightening by the same number of revolutions when putting it back on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 dont over torque the bar tensioner.the bar will bow and if it is already spaced to allow a plenum spacer underneath it will interfere with bonnet and if bad enough damage your bonnet. as already mentioned you dont need to go wild when tightening it. When loosening the centre nut on the bar is it just a case of counting how many complete turns you make and tightening by the same number of revolutions when putting it back on? should be yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
introspect Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 Thanks Husky, much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 as long as there is no tension on the bar when you begin undoing the bolts to the car you'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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