M13KYF Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Great write up by AlexZ AlexZ said: Hi all, when I changed the oils last week I noticed the front brake pads ware a little worse for wear. On Saturday morning I used the ram at work again and sorted them...This is the first time I’ve done Brembo brakes and it wasn’t bad at all. I took a few Images along the way because I couldn’t find many when I searched the forum before I started... Remove the front wheel. (21mm Socket and a torque setting of 108Nm, I wrap the socket in masking tape to save it from marking the alloy inside the nut holes). Removing the pads Locate the securing K pins on the pads retainer pins... With the K pins removed, get a punch or correct size item and remove the lower pad retainer pin..The anti vibration spring will flick out so go careful... Now open the bonnet and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, this will aid when you push the pistons back. Ok, your caliper should now have now parts other than the pads left in it...I used a screw driver to push the pads back a little then leaved the pads out...remember there may be a lip round the edge of the disk and you have to get the pads over this.. Removing the Brembo caliper. With the pads out the caliper, the disk should be lose on the hub...Just whip the two rear 22mm bolts out to remove the caliper. (torque 152Nm) I also removed the brake line bracket bolts to make hanging the calliper easier...two 12mm bolts.. Preparing the disk for the new pads... If the disks are older you may find a little corrosion and a lip round the outer rim edge. Best thing to do when replacing the pads is make the disk as smooth and new as possible. I removed the lip with a hammer first, then smoothed the rest out with a grinder. Once the lose rust and lip has been removed I used the air line to blow out all the vented slots through the disk...once happy with the main disk I used some course sand paper to deglaze the disk face, this gives the pad a new face to mate with. Once your happy with all the prep work get some brake cleaner and clean all metal surfaces. With the disk ready for action I sorted the caliper for the new pads. First I cleaned the metal slides the pads make contact with. I just wiped them with a rag and brake cleaner until no more dirt would come off. I also pushed the four pistons back enough to get the new thick pads in. I used a spanner head over each piston while holding the other 3 with my spare fingers. Rebuild. I put a little copper grease round the inside of the disk bore to make it easier next time they have to come off... Then slip the disk back onto the hub. I then borrowed the anti squeal shims from the O.E pads and swapped them over to the new pads. I used a little copper grease where each piston would meet the pads and where the pad meets the caliper. If you put a couple of dots of grease on the shim this will hold the shim to the pad while you get them back in the caliper. Some people use a little sand paper on the new friction material on the pads. I did this but some people don’t bother...each to their own if you ask me. Once the pads are back in, just rebuild the caliper as you took it apart making sure all the bits have a home and all the torque setting are correct... Job Done. I then used the following process to bed the new pads into the deglazed disk and everything is coolio...Break bleed in the near future.... (Thanks ZMAN) viewtopic.php?f=35&t=19501 This isn’t a guide, just how I did mind... With the brakes been in for a couple of day they feel good. I haven’t really used them hard yet but the overall feel is fine... Thanks Alex 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 fantastic guide, just what i needed with a change of mine coming up, i started considering doing it myself and this gives me alot more confidence to do it. thanks taking the cap off the reservoir is all you need to do to release the pressure to get them in/out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 fantastic guide, just what i needed with a change of mine coming up, i started considering doing it myself and this gives me alot more confidence to do it. thanks taking the cap off the reservoir is all you need to do to release the pressure to get them in/out? Depends on the condition of your brake cylinders mate, if they are dirty clean them first then I'd use a piece of wood and push it between the old pads (sometimes this is hard and sometimes not) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 fantastic guide, just what i needed with a change of mine coming up, i started considering doing it myself and this gives me alot more confidence to do it. thanks taking the cap off the reservoir is all you need to do to release the pressure to get them in/out? Depends on the condition of your brake cylinders mate, if they are dirty clean them first then I'd use a piece of wood and push it between the old pads (sometimes this is hard and sometimes not) noob question (im an electrical engineer ) how would one clean his brake cylinders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Husky said: andlid said: Husky said: fantastic guide, just what i needed with a change of mine coming up, i started considering doing it myself and this gives me alot more confidence to do it. thanks taking the cap off the reservoir is all you need to do to release the pressure to get them in/out? Depends on the condition of your brake cylinders mate, if they are dirty clean them first then I'd use a piece of wood and push it between the old pads (sometimes this is hard and sometimes not) noob question (im an electrical engineer ) how would one clean his brake cylinders? sorry brake pistons, * take out the brake pads, stick a piece of wood through the caliper (so you can push the cylinders back later) * use the brake fluid to dampen a cloth * carefully press the brake ***NOT TO MUCH, just a little bit so you can see a clean surface on the cylinders * clean around the cylinder with the cloth, if that cleans it use some brake fluid and lubricate the cylinder before you push it back in with the WOOD, DONT harm the pistons. * if above didnt clean it use a VERY fine sandpaper to get all the dirt off. Below is a pic that shows how to use the wood: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky370z Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 this may be a really stupid question but. would i have to take the discs off and clean them? mine has a small lip on the edge. but i think the pads require replacment. Sparky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 this may be a really stupid question but. would i have to take the discs off and clean them? mine has a small lip on the edge. but i think the pads require replacment. Sparky Evening dude, if you mean the disk has a small lip round the edge then you may get away with just using a screw driver...Place a flat bladed screw driver in one of the lower caliper corners (so it cant move) with the flat edge on the disk edge. Turn the disk into the flat edge of the screw drive if you follow me...this should remove the lip by scraping it off with the screw driver tip... If new pads are going in I would advise using sandpaper to deglazed the disk face aswell. Alexz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 fantastic guide, just what i needed with a change of mine coming up, i started considering doing it myself and this gives me alot more confidence to do it. thanks taking the cap off the reservoir is all you need to do to release the pressure to get them in/out? Depends on the condition of your brake cylinders mate, if they are dirty clean them first then I'd use a piece of wood and push it between the old pads (sometimes this is hard and sometimes not) noob question (im an electrical engineer ) how would one clean his brake cylinders? To be honest mate there shouldnt be much of an issue pushing the pistons back...I could push all mine with my fingers. Just remember when you push one, the others will move lol. Try and hold the others with your hand or wood while you push each one back... The only reason the piston could be stuck or slow moving is if the piston seal is damaged or damp has some how got around it. As you will know the brake fluid pushes on the back of the piston. If the brake fluid was to pass around the sides of the piston your brakes wouldnt work very well lol.. All the seal does is keep the surface face of the piston clean from damp and dirt. The seal also aids in pulling the piston back when you release the foot pedal. Alexz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yokomo Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 got some new new ds2500 off cs the other day so will give mine a go this weekened question is last time i did this on car i nearly lost the spring clips.... (see where im going) are these availabe easyily or is it a case of pray i dont loose/brake them ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 Just don't lose or break them! Fairly easy, just do that bit slowly and carefully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buster Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 doing mine today at home on the drive.good guide mate.cheers for your patience and photos.sure lots of people will benefit from this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yokomo Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 turns out they dont need changing yet , just me being over cautious since its nearly service time and they felt a little soft. was dead easy to get the pads off though so id be happy to change thm anyone wiht a driveway should be able to follow th guide, nice work . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 Glad I could help guys... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbiscuit Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 fantastic guide, just what i needed with a change of mine coming up, i started considering doing it myself and this gives me alot more confidence to do it. thanks taking the cap off the reservoir is all you need to do to release the pressure to get them in/out? Depends on the condition of your brake cylinders mate, if they are dirty clean them first then I'd use a piece of wood and push it between the old pads (sometimes this is hard and sometimes not) noob question (im an electrical engineer ) how would one clean his brake cylinders? To be honest mate there shouldnt be much of an issue pushing the pistons back...I could push all mine with my fingers. Just remember when you push one, the others will move lol. Try and hold the others with your hand or wood while you push each one back... The only reason the piston could be stuck or slow moving is if the piston seal is damaged or damp has some how got around it. As you will know the brake fluid pushes on the back of the piston. If the brake fluid was to pass around the sides of the piston your brakes wouldnt work very well lol.. All the seal does is keep the surface face of the piston clean from damp and dirt. The seal also aids in pulling the piston back when you release the foot pedal. Alexz just remember to take the lid off the brake fluid reservoir or it won't push back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 rtbiscuit is right make sure you remove the cap lol...this is shown in the images on the guide if you get stuck guys. Alexz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jixaman Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 AAaagh... The pins are stuck in... Pin punch wont work !!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rabbitstew Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 Excellent guide. Im going to have to do mine over the next couple of weeks, so this has made the job much easier! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasso Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 You may find the caliper bolts are a tad tight.... breaker bar or something of the kind may be required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfman Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 You may find the caliper bolts are a tad tight.... breaker bar or something of the kind may be required i found this, so much that i couldn't get them off while the car was on the drive, gunna have to get it over the pit so i have better access lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasso Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 You may find the caliper bolts are a tad tight.... breaker bar or something of the kind may be required i found this, so much that i couldn't get them off while the car was on the drive, gunna have to get it over the pit so i have better access lol! If you turn the wheel to the right or left giving you more access you should be ok. I applied some WD40 30mins before trying to take them off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilMH Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 This is the sort of guide I really like - that tells you everything. Mine have probably got another few thousand in them but when the time comes I will certainly look this up again. Thanks for taking the trouble to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rabbitstew Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 You may find the caliper bolts are a tad tight.... breaker bar or something of the kind may be required Yeah, i tend to use a bit of scaffolding pole over a breaker bar usually on some cars. At least with the zed it looks like it has normal bolts rather than hex or torques bolts. Hopefully I may be able to get away with keeping the orignal discs and just changing the pads.... will examine them better later and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankeesiter Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 I just checked my brake pads in advance of some European touring specifically the Alps. I only checked the offside front but the thinnest pad was down to about 3-4mm. Does anyone know how thick the original pad material is? I don't want to change them unnecessarily but on the other hand I don't want to hear any brake screeching coming down from the Col du Turini. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rabbitstew Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Just done mine Friday night, and thanks to this guide it was nice and easy. Ive replaced pads on dozens and dozens of cars, and the brembos on the 350z were very easy to do. Looks like i didnt do them a minute too soon, the LH side paids were worn down to the metal! Just finished bedding in the ds2500`s and have to say wow... massive improvement over whatever pads were on the car before hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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