kazman Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Hi I have a clonking sound coming the front off side suspension, it does it when going over rough surfaces at slow speeds. Numerous searches have suggested it is either down to a drop link or the banana shaped bar. The later is obviouly more expensive (though good second hand options are available) but seems to be more typically the source of the problem. Bearing in mind I don't have the tools or brains to investigate this, can anyone tell me if there is a way of diagnosing between the two faults whilst driving along? Does one make a very different sound etc? I know diagnosing sounds is pretty futile, but if there is any good advise that may save me swapping components unnessesarily it would be much appreciated. Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottsoulby Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 i would definetly say its the banana shaped bar, if you want to test you drop links the best thing to do is undo it and disconnect it, which means the anti roll bar is disabled, go for a steady drive taking it easy over a road you know the noise comes from, if its still there you know its not the drop link, thats what i did through recommendation i had the same problem a while back and changed alot of parts, the banana shaped part being last Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATTAK Z Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 Please see this post for my experiences on this topic ........ hope it helps viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30773&hilit=strut&start=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kazman Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 Thanks guys, that's a usefull piece of advice. How hard is it to disconnect the front drop link? Any idea what tools are required? I have read that thread a few times already (thanks though), it's posts like that that strongly make me think it's the part at fault. Wonder why it always seems to be the offside one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottsoulby Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 not sure really, ive been on a few american sites and they have the same problem and the same side as ours, strange the drop link is easy to undo, just one bolt, only undo the bottom bolt and then tie it up to the roll bar, youll know what i mean when you do it, dont even need to remove the wheel, cant remember the bolt size though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kazman Posted February 1, 2010 Author Share Posted February 1, 2010 Thanks a lot. How driveable will the car be like this? I'm guessing more prone to oversteer? Obviously I won't be hammering around, just want to make sure there are no extreme handling characteristics I am not aware of! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottsoulby Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 its ok, just dont go thrashing around corners, nice and steady does the trick, youll hardly notice if you drive slow, dont need to go far, just until you know if the noise is there or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kazman Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Thanks muchly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kazman Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Oh, one other thing - If i do change the banana shaped bar, will i need a full geo alignment? Only i am thinking of getitng one done anyway and dont want to pay for it only to have all the work undone again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottsoulby Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 I didn't, and I've had no problems with wear etc, maybe I'm wrong not to but in my case it was fine, you could always put off your allignment until after you've changed it to make sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATTAK Z Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Oh, one other thing - If i do change the banana shaped bar, will i need a full geo alignment? Only i am thinking of getitng one done anyway and dont want to pay for it only to have all the work undone again. I don't think an alignment check is necessary since the components we are discussing are all non-adjustable ( I'm referring to drop links, 'banana bar', upper wishbone and the compression rod which was the component that fixed it for me) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kazman Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Thanks Crap, i thought the banana bar was the compression rod.... am going to have to do more research now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATTAK Z Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Have a look at the attachment on my post dated Wed Dec 30, 2009 11:16 am on the following thread viewtopic.php?f=3&t=30773&hilit=strut&start=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kazman Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Yep, reread it a couple of times, cheers. So item 11 (compression bar) is the banana bar right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATTAK Z Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Sequence of events on my car went something like this ( over a period of a year ) The rattle started shortly after front discs and pads were fitted. The rattle occurred only at low speed when going over smalls bumps in the road surface. I could make it happen every time when I ran over the chevron no parking markings outside a school near me. front suspension.pdf Left & right stabiliser connecting rods ( item 14 ) renewed Rattle still there Left & right transverse links ( item 13 ) renewed Rattle still there Left upper link ( item 7 ) renewed Rattle still there Front discs and pads replaced with genuine Brembo items Rattle still there Left compression rod ( item 11 ) renewed Rattle cured Hope you get to the bottom of it soon .... good luck For diagnosis of the problem try left foot braking when the noise is happening (keep the car going forward of course), this seems to load up the offending item and temporarily stops the noise .......... it did in my case anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kazman Posted February 2, 2010 Author Share Posted February 2, 2010 Thanks again mate, very kind of you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kazman Posted March 29, 2010 Author Share Posted March 29, 2010 Just as an update, it turned out to be a front drop link... my rattle did not sound quite the same as the compression rod rattle vid that was posted up elsewhere which was why i was not convinced it was the problem i had. Anyway, all sorted now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATTAK Z Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 Glad to hear you sorted it anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 I just diagnosed this problem on a car. jack the car up and get underneath, grab the ARB and give it a tug about you'll hear it creaking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kazman Posted March 29, 2010 Author Share Posted March 29, 2010 Glad to hear you sorted it anyway Thanks mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R35LEE Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 kazman, I have all suspension in stock mate PM sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kazman Posted March 29, 2010 Author Share Posted March 29, 2010 Thanks mate but i'm all sorted now Think you may have missed the last couple of posts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R35LEE Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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