Husky Posted November 10, 2009 Share Posted November 10, 2009 Speedometer Gauge Cluster: Below are the steps required to gain access to the speedometer gauge cluster faces. Credit for alot of these instructions goes to Ibz i adapted some of them onto 350z-uk.com with his permission. It is worth bearing in mind these pictures are from a left hand drive vehicle so will differ slightly from your own. Turn the key to the ACC position and take pictures of the gauge positions. Start the car and take pictures of the gauge positions noting the position of the tach needle at idle, the position of the fuel gauge needle and temperature gauge needle when the car is warmed up. Once you have your reference pictures, turn off the car and proceed. Pull down on the front and rear edges of the driver’s side lower dash panel, first on the left side and then on the right side. Pull the panel down enough so you can access the area under the steering wheel. You do not need to remove or disconnect the cables that are fastened to the inside of this panel, just let it hang. Use a flat blade screw driver to pry out the ignition trim ring (arrow below)  Remove the four screws that hold the lower steering wheel cover in place. One screw is located within the release lever channel so you will have to move the release lever into the down and released position. Pull the cover off and set it aside.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 Use a socket wrench with a 10 mm socket and a 6†extension to remove the four bolts from the mounting bracket. You may have to thread the extension behind a wire bundle on the left side.  NOTE – The upper steering wheel cover is attached to the gauge cluster, it is normal for this piece to come out with the gauge cluster Gently lift the gauge cluster up, tilt it back and disconnect the wiring connector. Note – you may have to unsnap the upper steering wheel cover from the top of the steering wheel to get it to come loose.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 Set the cluster down on a soft towel, remove the 6 screws that hold the upper steering wheel cover to the mounting bracket and remove the upper steering wheel cover.  Pry each section of the rear cover loose and remove the cover.  Disconnect the two wiring connectors and remove the wire bundles from their guides. Remove the two screws from the back of the cluster.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 Notice how the back cover wraps around from the back towards the front under the lower half of the ends. Pop one end of the back cover off of one of the lower corners. Then do the other corner.  Carefully work the back cover off of the cluster.  Carefully work the top cover off the cluster, one end at a time. Snap the cover loose at either end under the lower silver button. The silver buttons on the sides are fastened to the top cover and will move with it. The silver (painted black in this picture) front metal bezel may stay attached to the top cover or it may not. Either way is OK. The clear plastic lens will stay attached to the cluster.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 Turn the cluster face down and remove the 4 screws holding the mounting bracket to the cluster and pull the bracket off.  Remove the insulator sheet.  Pry loose the clips on the top and then the bottom that hold the black trim piece to the white circuit board housing. Top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 Bottom  Pull the circuit board housing free of the trim piece and set it face up. Set the front trim and plastic face piece face up to minimize the amount of dust that will collect on the inside.  Remove the gauge needles: NOTE – when removing gauge needles, make sure you have an open, well lit and uncluttered work area. The needles can jump a few feet in the air when released. Being able to see where they land and retrieve them will make things easier. Remove the needles from the gauge faces. Place butter knives or Popsicle sticks on either side of a needle base from opposite directions. Use the straight edges if using knives. Lightly twist each tool to exert identical pressure on the center of the underside of the needle base. Be careful that the pressure is evenly applied so the stem does not get bent. The needle should come off the stem with a little pressure.  NOTE- be careful of the other gauge needles and needle stops when arranging your prying tools, check for best placement before you start prying. NOTE – make sure your work area is well lit and in an open area. The author’s experience is that these needles can shoot up a few feet when they come off so being able to easily see where they land is important. NOTE – the needle on the speedometer is bigger than the tach needle. Keep this in mind for reassembly. Peel up and remove the old gauge face. If you hit some particularly sticky areas where these is excessive glue, use a hair dryer to warm up and soften the glue. Keep the stock gauge faces, you will need the needle stops. END Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted November 10, 2009 Author Share Posted November 10, 2009 Rebuild procedure Note the parts of the old face with glue on, apply glue (a glue stick or something similar is enough) to the underside of the new face in the same locations. Now place the face onto the cluster. Now the needles need to go back on. To do this the reference pictures that were taken are required. Plug the unit back into the vehicle and just balance it in position. Turn the car to ACC and gently place the fuel needle onto the position shown in the reference picture. When you have confirmed it is correct and you are totally happy, push it till it clicks into place. Now turn the car on and leave it running until it is up to normal running temperature and the idle has settled. Using the reference picture place the temperature needle on and when happy click into place. Gently put the Tach needle on where the reference picture shows for idle. Now on the multi function display, set it to revs and change the number to 3000rpm. Slowly bring the revs up and find the point at which the gear change indicator just lights up meaning 3000rpm. Ensure the needle placement corresponds and if happy allow to go to idle and then push on till it clicks. For the speedometer, set everything up so it is steady and nothing will fall about in the car. These next steps are much easier and safer with the help of a friend, also I would add that they should be completed on a private road with plenty of space or on a dyno. Set the multi function LCD to read speed, take the car out and raise the speed to 20mph, place the needle in the correct position for 20mph. Now increase the speed in increments ensuring the needle reads the same as the digital display all the way through. This must be completed above 20mph, anything less is to low to get an accurate placement. Now rebuild the cluster using the reverse of the stripping procedure. END further advice: Excellent write up mate, and great pictures.One thing to note is that the 350z has cross-coils to move the pointers, not stepper motors! If you have the meter upside down for over 15 mins then you run the risk of the silicone inside the cross-coils running out. The silicone is used to dampen the movement of the pointers and enable a smooth operation. If the silicone runs out then the pointers will not sweep correctly and show eradic movement. Also, be very careful when prying off the pointers, too much too soon will result in the spindle detaching from the motor and then its goosed for good!! But again, great guide. comments welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez21 Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Excellent write up mate, and great pictures. One thing to note is that the 350z has cross-coils to move the pointers, not stepper motors! If you have the meter upside down for over 15 mins then you run the risk of the silicone inside the cross-coils running out. The silicone is used to dampen the movement of the pointers and enable a smooth operation. If the silicone runs out then the pointers will not sweep correctly and show eradic movement. Also, be very careful when prying off the pointers, too much too soon will result in the spindle detaching from the motor and then its goosed for good!! But again, great guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted November 11, 2009 Author Share Posted November 11, 2009 Excellent write up mate, and great pictures.One thing to note is that the 350z has cross-coils to move the pointers, not stepper motors! If you have the meter upside down for over 15 mins then you run the risk of the silicone inside the cross-coils running out. The silicone is used to dampen the movement of the pointers and enable a smooth operation. If the silicone runs out then the pointers will not sweep correctly and show eradic movement. Also, be very careful when prying off the pointers, too much too soon will result in the spindle detaching from the motor and then its goosed for good!! But again, great guide. fantastic information!!! where have you been all my life tell me more!! i think ive been lucky then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maz77 Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 quite brilliant guide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 thanks guys, still some bits to polish off and all the rest of them to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maz77 Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 are you doing anything to that cheap looking dials surround (looks like brushed ali but must be some sort of plastic) keep us updated. seems like a nice project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 are you doing anything to that cheap looking dials surround (looks like brushed ali but must be some sort of plastic)keep us updated. seems like a nice project i can remember off hand, i thought it was the only bit of real ally in there, hmm ill look into it, personally i want it all changed to brushed stainless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maz77 Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 i can remember off hand, i thought it was the only bit of real ally in there, hmm ill look into it, personally i want it all changed to brushed stainless that would look ACE. needs good fabrication though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 i can remember off hand, i thought it was the only bit of real ally in there, hmm ill look into it, personally i want it all changed to brushed stainless that would look ACE. needs good fabrication though i would send it to my mates precision engineering firm along with ever other alu bit in the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maz77 Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 here is me thinking your gonna have a go at it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 here is me thinking your gonna have a go at it well there is a limit to my talents, and cutting a circle in metal is one of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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