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A £527.97 window problem


EdZed

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Chaps, I have a problem with the driver's window, which I see from using the search button is not that uncommon.

 

It started not going up when it should, which I rectified by thumping the door. Now it won't shunt up/down when opening/closing the door, so I need to get it fixed. I have used the search button and read some useful threads but, not being very technical I took in to Allen Nissan in Dunstable. They say it needs the whole window mechanism replacing for which they would like me to pay them £526.97....it must be a pretty special window mechanism.

 

Since the motor clearly still works (although it grinds a bit), I wonder if it just getting at the mechanism, cleaning it up a bit and greasing it would be worth a try. I looked at the guide for taking the door to pieces but even that looks like a big job for me. If the regulator is playing up then that would need replacing....but the dealer says you have to replace the whole gubbins and I have to pay them over £500 to do so.

 

If anyone could give a steer as to whether I should risk having a go myself or has any other bright ideas, please let me know!

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try the window reset procedure. Its in the guides section. Someone on here just the other week gave the motor a clean with pictures. If all else fails contact R35LEE. He'll sort you out with the parts far cheaper than nissan. The you'll just need to get it fitted.

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I'm in Bedfordshire, bounty78. I think that I should be able to get a new motor/regulator cheaper via ebay/someone here. I phoned the dealer and said not to bother (I hadn't realised 10% of the value of my Zed was in the front windows!). I'll have a go at taking the door to bits (with trepidation) at the weekend and let you know how I get on...

 

Thanks to all.

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Hopefully some members who live around your area will be able to offer you some advice. Have a look under "Servicing" , there's is a list of good and bad garages in different areas. I live in nottinghamshire and a lot of us here struggle looking for a Zed expert. Have just found a place in Nottingham..will post an update to let everyone know if they are any good. Try to stay clear off Nissan dealer if u can, they charge about £80 in labour per hour ex VAT.

PM R35LEE or ZMANALEX if you need the OEM parts..far cheaper than Nissan stealers. They are top blokes :thumbs:

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Try to stay clear off Nissan dealer if u can, they charge about £80 in labour per hour ex VAT.

How much :scare: My local stealer charges £75 inc VAT and I thougth that was expensive being near London. My usual chaps charge ~£50 in VAT :)

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Sounds like you are having the same issue I had a few weeks ago! To get it working again instead of smacking the door close the door and push the window down as though you were lowering it by hand. Its not hard to move, it should move about an inch.

 

When you have done this hold the switch to raise the window to the top, it worked for me.

I had to do this everytime I lowered the window before it would go back up.

 

When you are parking do it with the door open so the window will fully wind up when you shut the door.

 

I have fixed mine of this problem, it cost me £3 for some electrical contact cleaner and about 90 minutes of my time. I'm intending to write a guide on how to fix it, hopefully get a chance on saturday after I have finsihed fiddling with my brakes. :band:

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Sounds like you are having the same issue I had a few weeks ago! To get it working again instead of smacking the door close the door and push the window down as though you were lowering it by hand. Its not hard to move, it should move about an inch.

 

When you have done this hold the switch to raise the window to the top, it worked for me.

I had to do this everytime I lowered the window before it would go back up.

 

When you are parking do it with the door open so the window will fully wind up when you shut the door.

 

I have fixed mine of this problem, it cost me £3 for some electrical contact cleaner and about 90 minutes of my time. I'm intending to write a guide on how to fix it, hopefully get a chance on saturday after I have finsihed fiddling with my brakes. :band:

pushing it donw is a no go as it wont budge (wiht reasonable force) , also ahd it stick fully down once !

was not good as i had to pull over and sit in car park for 2 mins or so thumping it !

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I took the door card off on Saturday, following the instructions I have been directed to.

 

But under the door card there is an inner metal panel which keeps the window mechanism hidden. (This may not surprise anyone here but remember that I am a novice when it comes to taking things to pieces and I didn't really know what to expect to see). There are some spy holes in this metal panel, covered with stuck-on black material. I peeled one of these off and think I located the reset button. So then I reset the window, having printed off those instructions too. I wasn't brave enough to take off the inner metal panel and spray my new can of electrical contact cleaner about, not least because there were so many bundles of wires protruding. Feeling that I had already gone far enough outside my comfort zone, I put the door card back, which took a certain amount of effort/swearing. The window then worked properly for the rest of Saturday. Sniffing triumph in the air, I went to open the driver's door on Sunday morning but it started playing up again. So I am now getting in and out via the passenger door, it being impossible to close the door properly if the glass won't shunt down in time. Not very dignified.

 

I think I had better find an independent garage/auto electrician to look at it and maybe fit a whole new window mechanism.

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Definately sounds like a problem with the motor to me, i.e. it just needs dismantling and cleaning.

 

Quick Guide (doing from my memory so may be some small errors)

 

1)Take off the door card

2)Connect the window switches back up (you will neeed to be able to move the window to remove the glass)

3)On the metal panel behind the door card there are three very large pieces of material over three big holes (one at the front two at the back about halfway down the door) remove these three pieces of material

4)Lower the window until you can see a bolt in one of these holes, remove bolt.

5)Repeat process for remaining bolts (3 bolts total), glass will now be sitting on brackets.

6)Carefully remove the glass by lifting it upwards and then sliding backwards when back edge clears doorseal

7)Set glass aside carefully and clean the scum off it (optional)

8)Disconnect window switches and carefully pull wiring looms from door panel

9)Remove all bolts holding internal metal panel to door frame (there are about 12- 15 I think) only the bolts around the edge do not remove the gold coloured bolts

10)Carefully remove the whole silver panel (the entire window mechanism is attached to this)

11)Now that you have removed the window mechanism unbolt the motor assembly from the middle of the door (three bolts)

12)remove three bolts around edge of motor/winder mechanism (not sure if these are on the front or back)

13)Pull the two pieces apart

14)Unhook grommet from silver panel and pull cabel through

15)Unscrew the three screws on top of the motor (be careful they are made fo monkey metal and if you round these off its gonna be hard)

16)Pull goldy coloured portion of motor away from rest (its magnetised so may feel a bit stuck)

17)Depending on which part the motor shaft has stuck to you may need to pull the motor shaft out separatley, mine came out magnetised to the housing)

18)Using lint free cloth and contact cleaner carefully clean the copper contacts half way down the motor shaft they are about 12-15mm tall and will be covered in carbon)

19)Carefully clean the brushes in the motor housings (made of black carbon)

20)Carefully reassemble the motor and attach back to the window regulator assembly

21)Reassemble door but do not fit door card, assembly is the reverse of removal

22)Connect window switches and wind window up one inch from top

23)Check alignment to car body and door (reallign by adujusting the three bolts holding the glass in position, do not overtighten these bolts!!!!)

24)When happy with glass positioning and allignment perform motor reset procedure

25) Re-fit door card

26)Window should now be happy and working

 

 

There is another set of steps involving the brushes but this needs a soldering iron and more motor disassembly hopefully just cleaning the motor will fix your issue. I didn't get chance to do a full guide this weekend but I'll try this week or weekend.

 

Godo luck

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  • 2 weeks later...

fffeeew just cleaned out my driver side motor as it stopped agin and thumping it didnt work.....once i finally got the motor out it was obvious why it wasnt working . The brushes had jammed and were stuck in a pushed all the way out state sothey would barely contact the motors comutator so once these were freeed up all seems good and hopefully will stay that way !

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So I am now getting in and out via the passenger door, it being impossible to close the door properly if the glass won't shunt down in time.

 

 

My drivers side window has (since i bought it 2 years ago) never closed properly with the 'Auto' setting on the window button (ie two clicks up). It gets to the top, then drops about a 1/3 back down as if my hand is caught in it or something. If i use the manual close setting (1 click up) it closes all the way up with no issues.

 

However, my drivers side window has *never* dropped down a little when opening the door! I've never really noticed this until reading this thread doh! In 2 years it hasnt caused me any issues - door closes fine with the drivers side window all the way up. Thinking about it, my old Rover Tomcat and my 200sx had identical pillar-less windows. Neither of them used to drop a little when opening the door...is it a major issue if the wondow doesnt drop a little ? [sorry for thread hi-jack]

 

EDIT - my passenger window does drop a little - at least my passengers aren't gonna break my window closing the door :teeth:

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