AlexZ Posted May 27, 2010 Author Share Posted May 27, 2010 yeah ipod mod all done and working fine cheers mate!!! Good news mate, another one bites the dust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted May 28, 2010 Author Share Posted May 28, 2010 Evening people, for a couple of days now one of my brakes on the drivers side has been squeaking...I dont think its the front because I chnaged the pads not that long ago. I stripped the rear pads out the caliper tonight and they were caked with brake bust... I took a couple of image along the way for you guys to check it out... I removed the two securing clips from the main pad reatiner pins. I then removed the sliding pins from the caliper, I find it best to spin the pin with some mole grips first then they remove a little easier.. Wiggle them pads until the come out... With the caliper empty its time for a little clean, I cleaned all the metal slide that are screwed into the caliper which the pads slide on. I removed the caliper to make it easier, dont forget to dot a little grease of some sort on these. Once I was happy with the caliper I cleaned all the parts... Rebuild in the reverse order... I covered the rear surface and top and bottom of the pad with anti scuffing paste. Then slotted the pads, pins and retainer clips back together. With the car in the air I decided to put some PTFE grease in my anti drop links. When I bought the car 8 months ago they were a little noisey and I used Chain lube to lube the ball joint. With the crappy winter we have had the drivers side has made one or two creeks in the last week so I sorted that while I was there. While under the car I noticed there was a little mud caught in my arch at then end or the side skirt. I removed the plastic shield and set about removing the caugth dirt.... There was enough to make a foot ball field I sprayed the area with GT85 until I get some more sealer, this will repell and water in the area. Finally when refitting the wheel I checked the tyre and pulled this little baby out of it lol looks like a section of Stanley Blade. Dont worry the tyre is fine... Thanks Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrh Posted May 29, 2010 Share Posted May 29, 2010 I also serviced my rear brakes recently and threw on some new pads as the old ones were soft and crumbling. The result? I'm getting at least 1 mpg more! When I Waxoyl'd my arches last year I removed a ton of dirt from the rear arches, especially in the shock tower and around the fuel filler pipes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted May 30, 2010 Author Share Posted May 30, 2010 I also serviced my rear brakes recently and threw on some new pads as the old ones were soft and crumbling. The result? I'm getting at least 1 mpg more! When I Waxoyl'd my arches last year I removed a ton of dirt from the rear arches, especially in the shock tower and around the fuel filler pipes. Morning mate, I think the pads were the standard one, there still Brembo's...Theres plenty of life in them still so Ive put them back for the time been. I do need to waxoil all archs to be honest, I did the underside last year at work so I'll clean the archs and go back to work and use there spary guns... Today will be the first time ive drobe the car since so I'll keep you posted on the MPG lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted June 27, 2010 Author Share Posted June 27, 2010 After ordering a Cusco catch tank I set about fitting it last we....my first idea was to slightly move the power steering fluid pot and bracket across. After a couple of hours I decided I wasnt happy with the tightness of the area and the tank hitting the water pipe... The wilest place ever was then discovered but it works...theres a brakcet already there an waiting.... I've used hydralic air hose and a brass and alloy T piece. Theres a rocker cover filter attached to one of the unions on the tack so it can breath to atmosphere. What you guys think??? Alexz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tez162003 Posted June 27, 2010 Share Posted June 27, 2010 rather different place to fit a catch tank. this a common place on the 350's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted June 27, 2010 Author Share Posted June 27, 2010 rather different place to fit a catch tank. this a common place on the 350's? Wouldnt have thought so mate but it works fines and there no trouble it been there. I plan to cover the front panel with a stainless plate when get the dimesnions....Then you wont be able to see it at all.... I would have thought the further the tank is away from the engine the better...The cooler the tank the quick the oil vapour will condence back to full oil.. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djrm Posted August 10, 2010 Share Posted August 10, 2010 Thanks so much for this guide mate! Truly brilliant!!! I now have my music and it doesn't skip!!! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted August 21, 2010 Author Share Posted August 21, 2010 Evening guys, I've been a little busy of late and the Z hasn't really been getting the attension it deserves. Last Novemeber when I bought the car the rear rear drop links were a little noisey and I found on the forum this was common. I removed them both and used chain lube to free them off and lube them up. In May the drivers side started making a little noise again so I relubed it with silicon spary. In the last week the passenger side has started to squeak again. I removed both of the this afternoon and I think I have a little mod for anyone doing it first time. Just check out the images bearing in mind the link is already removed (see earliey in thread for info) and this should last the year at least if not longer I hope going of the last lube up. Remove the link Choose the starting end and clean it up. Lift the seal and put freash grease in, be careful not to split the seal. Get your freezer bag tie (mint invention for this lol) and carefully wrap it round the top of the seal to stop any grease coming out. Without With The tie should stop the weather getting in and the grease getting out through movement. When the link is done she should look like this and job done... Hope this helps people with the issue now.. Alexz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 good stop gap measure the newer versions are twice the size as they have beefed up the joint and the seal so best to upgrade eventually, they are only a few quid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted August 21, 2010 Author Share Posted August 21, 2010 good stop gap measure the newer versions are twice the size as they have beefed up the joint and the seal so best to upgrade eventually, they are only a few quid Evening mate, I didnt realise they were so cheap...I thought they would be about £15-£30 each, plus fitting. The above info is a quick and easy guide if you have the gear at home..Not to sure why Nissan have made them bigger, the only design floor I can see is theres no metal ring to retain the rubber boot tight like all other ball joints I've seen hense my tie lol . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will370z Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 Lovely work on the car, nice job with the exhaust pipes. I've been doing mine today, looks like you had a job there as they were pretty black before. Out of interest what did you use to get them like that? Mighty impressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 good stop gap measure the newer versions are twice the size as they have beefed up the joint and the seal so best to upgrade eventually, they are only a few quid Evening mate, I didnt realise they were so cheap...I thought they would be about £15-£30 each, plus fitting. The above info is a quick and easy guide if you have the gear at home..Not to sure why Nissan have made them bigger, the only design floor I can see is theres no metal ring to retain the rubber boot tight like all other ball joints I've seen hense my tie lol . sorry thats what i meant by a few quid its the only repair on my car thats been done i would class as inexpensive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 Lovely work on the car, nice job with the exhaust pipes. I've been doing mine today, looks like you had a job there as they were pretty black before. Out of interest what did you use to get them like that? Mighty impressed. Morning Will, I started by using brake cleaner to remove any of the loose dirt. I then found the finest wet and dry paper in my shed iirc it was 2500 from work lol. I lightly used the paper to removed what was left then Autosol the he'll out of them lol. Once all the black had gone I Just polish them when the car is cleaned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 good stop gap measure the newer versions are twice the size as they have beefed up the joint and the seal so best to upgrade eventually, they are only a few quid Evening mate, I didnt realise they were so cheap...I thought they would be about £15-£30 each, plus fitting. The above info is a quick and easy guide if you have the gear at home..Not to sure why Nissan have made them bigger, the only design floor I can see is theres no metal ring to retain the rubber boot tight like all other ball joints I've seen hense my tie lol . sorry thats what i meant by a few quid its the only repair on my car thats been done i would class as inexpensive Ahhh fiar play mate, touch wood mines been good for the time Ive had it lol...new pads cost me £26 and I've used them round Nurburgring with no issues at all and I've replaced a cam cover gasket at £7 lol... To be honest the fix is more for people who just want to fix the issuse rather then spend cash or wait for a couple of day for delivery. The drop links arnt damaged just need relubing. I'll change mine when the rubber splits I think. Alexz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 i was surprised to see they had released the grease without the rubber splitting, didnt realise they were cack enough to do that. mine were in bits when i took them off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 i was surprised to see they had released the grease without the rubber splitting, didnt realise they were cack enough to do that. mine were in bits when i took them off IIRC you work in a parts department at Jaguar???? I was susprise to see a ball joint with no steel retaining ring on it to keep the grease in lol..I bet all the ball joints you supply have steel rings on them....Stupid jap people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 Ok this afternoon I set about fixing the Bose left speak problems that started a little while ago. Firstly I have to say what a top thread to help you through the process if you ever plan to attempt this yourself... viewtopic.php?f=35&t=21318&start=0 I've attached a couple of closer images to help you guys see whats needed from the ribbon postion. Firstly this is what to expect.. Closer image Be careful of the two little black pins...From what I can see they keep the cd stack together..They will fall out if turned upside down lol. I've marked them in red... Finally, when the ribbon was in the retainer from stock you couldnt see any silver, Ive pulled it back and clamped it down on fresh cable. I also adjusted the handbrake cable. This isnt the full manual way to adjust the movement but if times tight this is the quickest way. Find your handbrake lol.... Remove the gear knob..(unscrew anti clockwise) Lift the gear stick surround up and unclip the ribbon to the three circle dial (air location, air postion and air blow power). You will see some black screws, undo the two lowest ones and remove the metal "L" brackets. Remove the ashtray by pulling it up and out. Remove the screw below the ashtray Slide both seats forward and tilt them towards the front screen. Remove both the screws on the rear of the centre console behind the seats (one each side) The centre console will now lift enough to get a 10mm spanner on the handbrake cable nut and tighten until your happy with the feel of the handbrake. Alexz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will370z Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 Thanks for the info Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 no worries mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 Electrical r&d bud If your saying mechanically its got poor design. And I'm saying electrically its not great where does that leave us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted August 23, 2010 Author Share Posted August 23, 2010 I think Nissan have built a car for us to perfect...lol... I now have some L.e.d's to play with watch this space later for some images man. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted August 29, 2010 Author Share Posted August 29, 2010 Hi all, well my day went from bad to worse yesterday lol have a look to see my horror. First of I removed the rear bumper? Please note both sides are the same and I'm only showing one lol Open the hatch Remove the three black covers from the rear lamps. Remove the three 10mm bolts from each lamp. Now pull the lamp outwards away from the car standing along the side of the lamp. Theres two little pegs that help locate the lamp, these will snap if done wrong. Twist the bulb holder and your done for the lamps. Remove the 10mm bolt in the corners of the bumper. Remove the 10mm bolt from the front of the bumper end under the wheel arch on each side. Now lie on your back under the bumper and theres two 10mm bolts one on each side of the bumper near the rear wheels. Theres two clips in the centre of the bumper just near the exhaust back box. Now pull each corner of the bumper backwards, theres two slides one on each side and they should be located on a bobin and rail. With these lose you should be able to see a clip on both side you need to release. Now unplug the three plugs and your done. Off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted August 29, 2010 Author Share Posted August 29, 2010 Drilling the holes. I used Xvision parking sensors, there arnt any fitting guides for these sensors so I designed my own locations. Theres advise in the user manual about height up and distance apart etc. I cleaned the bumper first. I then measured 9" from each side of the tow eye cover and a further 10" from each of the inner sensor holes. The locations are shown by the vertical lines of tape where they cross. Then on second thoughts I decided I wanted the centre ones a little closer and more equally spaced. I measured from the two outter sensors and split it buy three. The new measurments were 35cm aparts and I've shown these with the black dots. I then took the drill and drilled a hole way to big for the sensor. DOH The hole cutting kit I borrowed said 19mm (which is what I needed ) smallest size, I picked out the smallest I could see didnt check and BOSH massive hole. The 19mm cutter was lose down the side of the box and I used the 25mm lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexZ Posted August 29, 2010 Author Share Posted August 29, 2010 Rear Bumper Hole repair. To be honest I really wasnt in the mod to repair the bumper so I put it in the kitchen for the night and went for a shower lol. While washing my golden locks I remebered I had some quality plastic resin from my door mirror mod. I found the hole I cut out and set about bonding it back into the bumper lol.. Collect your tools, I drilled a 19mm hole in the plastic card befor fitting. Rough up the mateing surfaces Bumper and plastic card. Bond the card to the bumper, I over lapped the plastic resin on the edges for extra strenght. Check out the bodge. Drill a fresh 19mm hole and touch up the plastic you have just made. This is as good as it gets with a plastic card, resin and touch up lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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