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heel+toe


stichy

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right i had a check.

i press the brake mostly with my big toe while pressing the throttle with the outside of the ball of my foot (pinky toe joint). my foot is rotated a bit but not uncomfortably so.

wide feet size 9/10 i suppose helps. looking at it i would have never thought they were so far apart it doesnt feel that bad :shrug:

 

 

I remember your platform seriously chunky trainers (think there's a pic on here somewhere.....) i'm not surprised its so easy for you! You must just mash all the pedals with them :lol:

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I haven't had the car long bit have had problems getting h & t to work too. It was easy in my old Clio 182, even with narrow Puma driving shoes. I think that the better you get, the easier it is to h & t at lower speeds. May need to invest in the Nismo pedal...

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Not sure a slipper clutch would work on a car really. For bikes, sure its all good as rev matching on them is harder and its easier to lock the rear. But on a car it would just mean no engine braking! :surrender:

 

 

^^^

 

Is that right that the car wouldn't engine brake? hmmm don't think so it would just make the downshifting smoother and you wouldnt need to use a blip...

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Not sure a slipper clutch would work on a car really. For bikes, sure its all good as rev matching on them is harder and its easier to lock the rear. But on a car it would just mean no engine braking! :surrender:

 

 

^^^

 

Is that right that the car wouldn't engine brake? hmmm don't think so it would just make the downshifting smoother and you wouldnt need to use a blip...

Yes thats how slipper clutches work. There is no resistance to engine braking - ie if engine is spinning slower than wheels, it will just let the clutch "slip" so that it doesnt lock the back wheels up. Thats why its used in motorbikes as engine braking in bikes can easily lock the back wheel. Not really worth it in a car.

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Not sure a slipper clutch would work on a car really. For bikes, sure its all good as rev matching on them is harder and its easier to lock the rear. But on a car it would just mean no engine braking! :surrender:

 

 

^^^

 

Is that right that the car wouldn't engine brake? hmmm don't think so it would just make the downshifting smoother and you wouldnt need to use a blip...

Yes thats how slipper clutches work. There is no resistance to engine braking - ie if engine is spinning slower than wheels, it will just let the clutch "slip" so that it doesnt lock the back wheels up. Thats why its used in motorbikes as engine braking in bikes can easily lock the back wheel. Not really worth it in a car.

hmm my own experience on track on bike with slipper clutch is that it slowly engage the clutch with the engine; engine braking still occurs but the rear wheel doesn't lockup. I need to investigate this further :teeth:

 

btw, tried a heal toe downshift earlier today... lol think I'll do it on closed road the next time... :shrug:

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btw, tried a heal toe downshift earlier today... lol think I'll do it on closed road the next time... :shrug:

 

Glad im not the only one that failed miserably :lol: is there some sort of technique to it? as i just seem to get faster each time :shrug:

 

its much easier to learn from a higher speed imo under more braking as it smooths it more. like an empty motorway slip lane with plenty of room to recover, 70-0.

 

best way to start is begin braking having your foot positioned how you will have it, dont touch the throttle at this point. do this till your comfy braking with your foot at this funny angle.

now with the car stationary with the engine running press the brake and pactice using the throttle, pick a number of revs and try to get it while holding the brake then try mving about the revs to get a feel for it so its familiar. holding the brake as you do this.

now go onto the road and give it a go. plenty of room required to be safe with noone about, track would be ideal. put the two motions together, at first you will find you give it to much and it lurches or too little. tis all about practice :)

 

thats how i was tought.

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btw, tried a heal toe downshift earlier today... lol think I'll do it on closed road the next time... :shrug:

 

Glad im not the only one that failed miserably :lol: is there some sort of technique to it? as i just seem to get faster each time :shrug:

 

its much easier to learn from a higher speed imo under more braking as it smooths it more. like an empty motorway slip lane with plenty of room to recover, 70-0.

 

best way to start is begin braking having your foot positioned how you will have it, dont touch the throttle at this point. do this till your comfy braking with your foot at this funny angle.

now with the car stationary with the engine running press the brake and pactice using the throttle, pick a number of revs and try to get it while holding the brake then try mving about the revs to get a feel for it so its familiar. holding the brake as you do this.

now go onto the road and give it a go. plenty of room required to be safe with noone about, track would be ideal. put the two motions together, at first you will find you give it to much and it lurches or too little. tis all about practice :)

 

thats how i was tought.

 

cheers, thats on my to do list now :teeth:

 

btw, first time I tried braking with my left foot.... = glad there is a law to wear seat belts :D It was in my dad's chevy with him in it and me as a 'learner' driver. Never seens someone so close to hitting the front windshield with there head... practice makes perfect though and managed it real good in the end. Since lost that 'skill'... so if you dont use it I suposse you loose it

:clap:

 

Think this might be something that I could film, just need to find a good area to practice it on.

 

A.

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i h and t as much as possible or just simply blip the throttle as it smoothes the ride so much. technique i use for slow speeds is big toe+ the width of my big toe on my foot on the brake and simply roll/arch the right side of your foot on to the throttle and match revs. only when hammering do it flick my heel onto the throttle.

 

tbh i spent a bit of time just blipping the throttle and learning what revs,speed and gear was ideal so that maybe something to do aswell if your "lurching". im not saying i hit it 100% of the time but 90% i reckon.. also as stated its alot easier to do it whilst going at a higher speed.

 

ps: i got size 10 feet but i could still h and t with the standard pedal :D

 

-ho

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Not sure a slipper clutch would work on a car really. For bikes, sure its all good as rev matching on them is harder and its easier to lock the rear. But on a car it would just mean no engine braking! :surrender:

 

 

^^^

 

Is that right that the car wouldn't engine brake? hmmm don't think so it would just make the downshifting smoother and you wouldnt need to use a blip...

Yes thats how slipper clutches work. There is no resistance to engine braking - ie if engine is spinning slower than wheels, it will just let the clutch "slip" so that it doesnt lock the back wheels up. Thats why its used in motorbikes as engine braking in bikes can easily lock the back wheel. Not really worth it in a car.

hmm my own experience on track on bike with slipper clutch is that it slowly engage the clutch with the engine; engine braking still occurs but the rear wheel doesn't lockup. I need to investigate this further :teeth:

 

btw, tried a heal toe downshift earlier today... lol think I'll do it on closed road the next time... :shrug:

This should help - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slipper_clutch :thumbs:

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Not sure a slipper clutch would work on a car really. For bikes, sure its all good as rev matching on them is harder and its easier to lock the rear. But on a car it would just mean no engine braking! :surrender:

 

 

^^^

 

Is that right that the car wouldn't engine brake? hmmm don't think so it would just make the downshifting smoother and you wouldnt need to use a blip...

Yes thats how slipper clutches work. There is no resistance to engine braking - ie if engine is spinning slower than wheels, it will just let the clutch "slip" so that it doesnt lock the back wheels up. Thats why its used in motorbikes as engine braking in bikes can easily lock the back wheel. Not really worth it in a car.

hmm my own experience on track on bike with slipper clutch is that it slowly engage the clutch with the engine; engine braking still occurs but the rear wheel doesn't lockup. I need to investigate this further :teeth:

 

btw, tried a heal toe downshift earlier today... lol think I'll do it on closed road the next time... :shrug:

This should help - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slipper_clutch :thumbs:

 

 

Standard on my bike. One less thing to orry about! :lol::lol:

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