Greekman Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 Mine are as gold as the fronts on a UK GT-equipped car. oooops.....what happened??? mine are so red i can hardly see the brembo logo!!!! i ll upload a pic this avo.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Mine are as gold as the fronts on a UK GT-equipped car. oooops.....what happened??? mine are so red i can hardly see the brembo logo!!!! i ll upload a pic this avo.... I've seen you can fade the colour on Brembos if they are driven very hard, its like a badge of honour on the MLR. But I dont know if that would turn the gold to red Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 As seen on Dixcel website: This may not be unfamiliar to most of you but it is a very important aspect in comparing the efficiency of brake pads. Friction materials consist of a variety of materials and steel fiber is one of them. Steel fiber is suitable for enhancing the pads' performance and stiffness but too much of it causes not only stronger rotor attack characteristics but also higher heat conductivity which puts the surrounding parts under excessive heat. Some of the typical heat harms are; * widening of calipers * distortion of rotors * fluid leakage from bleed screw * cracks * jagged surface rotor * too much wear of pads * peeling phenomenon due to curving of the backing plate * brake fluid vapor lock These are all very dangerous phenomenon which could immediately cause crash on circuits. High braking performance is particularly expected on racing pads and so contains a large quantity of steel fiber. However, that causes the pads to be heat conductive and also to heat up easily. We have succeeded in developing a race pad with low heat conductivity by using as little steel fiber as possible. The name of the pad is R01. Please experience it with your car. This excellent performance cannot possibly be shown in data. Comparison of the change in caliper colour after use of DIXCEL R01 and competitor's pads (Tested at Motegi racing circuit) by competitor's pads. Burnt to black, and caliper warped. Caliper have to be changed every 2races DIXCEL R01 Kept original red colour, no need to change whole season. Are your rear calipers looking like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greekman Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 Exactly like the top ones... if not worse!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 That doesn't sound so good..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greekman Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 Does this mean i have to change calipers as well??? will post pics this avo. LHS is bad. RHS looks a bit golder but then again it could be due to shade on LHS.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 I think that after you change your brakes, you'll need to try and change the way you apply the brakes in track. No personal experience on track, but looking at the comments from other regular tracksters, I'm guessing that would be a good point to start. Perhaps you brake too hard, thus causing a massive heat build-up. Maybe you should invest some monies into CAT Driver Training... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 I think that after you change your brakes, you'll need to try and change the way you apply the brakes in track.No personal experience on track, but looking at the comments from other regular tracksters, I'm guessing that would be a good point to start. Perhaps you brake too hard, thus causing a massive heat build-up. Maybe you should invest some monies into CAT Driver Training... I think I suggested this a while back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 I think that after you change your brakes, you'll need to try and change the way you apply the brakes in track.No personal experience on track, but looking at the comments from other regular tracksters, I'm guessing that would be a good point to start. Perhaps you brake too hard, thus causing a massive heat build-up. Maybe you should invest some monies into CAT Driver Training... I think I suggested this a while back Well....Horse to water and all that jazz.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greekman Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 Cant see the point on going on a track and be responsible..... I brake as late as possible...and then a tad later as well!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Cant see the point on going on a track and be responsible..... I brake as late as possible...and then a tad later as well!!!! In which case you have to accept that you need a proper brake track setup and get some suitable discs and pads for tracking the car or a BBK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 You'll need a a BBK and then possibly a new front bumper with ducts for cooling the brakes. Sideskirts too that channel air towards the rear brakes to keep them cool. Hence why track cars have all sorts of ducting and stuff to aid airflow around and into the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren-B Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 You'll need a a BBK and then possibly a new front bumper with ducts for cooling the brakes.Sideskirts too that channel air towards the rear brakes to keep them cool. Hence why track cars have all sorts of ducting and stuff to aid airflow around and into the car. Just because your cool with the roof down and the wind under your visor doesnt mean that your brakes are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greekman Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 Cheeky bas....ds all of you.... Another grand flew out of my pocket today.....got to crack on on bl..dy fillings now!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adriank Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Did you buy brakes then Greekman? If your interested in Dixcel ones, look here: viewtopic.php?f=38&t=27677 Front FCR discs like mine are £360 atm. Full car setup, discs and pads is circa £900. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greekman Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 Did you buy brakes then Greekman? If your interested in Dixcel ones, look here: viewtopic.php?f=38&t=27677 Front FCR discs like mine are £360 atm. Full car setup, discs and pads is circa £900. Already ordered them....and motul 660... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greekman Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 pics as promised. LHS much worse than RHS. front ones seem ok although the front right could have a brighter golden color.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adriank Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Yep they have definatly been overheated. You will need to get them checked when you have the brakes fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greekman Posted September 29, 2009 Author Share Posted September 29, 2009 Yep they have definatly been overheated. You will need to get them checked when you have the brakes fitted. Or shall i order 2 new rear calipers??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Interesting how the rears have overheated yet the fronts haven't, considering where the majority of the brake force is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbiscuit Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Interesting how the rears have overheated yet the fronts haven't, considering where the majority of the brake force is. i don't know, with all the power to the rear, if he's heel and toeing, your still trying to put force through the rear caliper while braking. fronts are only subject to rolling resistance and the brake pad. braking as late as possible doesn't make you the fastest on the track, isn't the old motto, "slow in; fast out" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adriank Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 I hate to say it but i agree with the above, looks like someones been on the throttle and brake at the same time, as you say would normally be the fronts that take the hit. New rear callipers will be costly greekman? They may survive, just get a good garage you trust to look at it. If your down south and need a reccomendation let me know, i have a garage i would trust with anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Interesting how the rears have overheated yet the fronts haven't, considering where the majority of the brake force is. i don't know, with all the power to the rear, if he's heel and toeing, your still trying to put force through the rear caliper while braking. fronts are only subject to rolling resistance and the brake pad. Sorry Rich, but that's completely wrong. Heel and toeing involves no extra power being sent to the wheels at all, that's the whole point of it: Dip the clutch and blip the throttle as you do so, change gear and re-engage clutch matching the revs to the speed you're doing. If you do it correctly the net result is a very smooth gear change that doesn't upset the balance of the car at the point of turn in, if you get it wrong it can make things much worse stability-wise but won't cause any more issues with the braking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris`I Posted September 29, 2009 Share Posted September 29, 2009 Interesting how the rears have overheated yet the fronts haven't, considering where the majority of the brake force is. i don't know, with all the power to the rear, if he's heel and toeing, your still trying to put force through the rear caliper while braking. fronts are only subject to rolling resistance and the brake pad. Sorry Rich, but that's completely wrong. Heel and toeing involves no extra power being sent to the wheels at all, that's the whole point of it: Dip the clutch and blip the throttle as you do so, change gear and re-engage clutch matching the revs to the speed you're doing. If you do it correctly the net result is a very smooth gear change that doesn't upset the balance of the car at the point of turn in, if you get it wrong it can make things much worse stability-wise but won't cause any more issues with the braking. Have to agree. Left foot braking anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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